Ripping 2x12x8' in half - best procedure?

[Andrew Hohnstein]

Hey everybody. I joined the guild about a month or so ago. I've just recently outfitted my shop and got my table saw tuned up. I'm in the process of making the Ruobo workbench ala Schwarz for lack of having any flat level work surface.

I need to rip a number of 2x12x8' SYP boards either on the table saw or using my circular saw (no bandsaw or jigsaw available). I do not have an outfeed table on my TS but I do have two roller supports. My plan is to joint one edge with a router and then rip each board down the center. I'm hoping for some recommendations on 1) use of either circular or table saw and 2) if TS, then how should I handle the fence setup for maximum safety and a true cut. I've think I've heard that you shouldn't (if possible) have the board butting up to the fence when moving across the blade. I'm a table saw newbie and need some advice on this procedure. Thanks in advance.

[Beechwood Chip]

If you are ripping the 2x12 down the center to make (2) 2x6 boards, use the rip fence and roller supports.

If you are cross cutting the 8' 2x12 in half to make (2) 4' 2x12, then use the circular saw (or miter saw).

The thing about not having the board butting up against the fence goes like this:

• Always support the longest dimension of the piece against a fence, miter gauge, sled, etc.
• Always allow one part to fall away from the blade (if you are making a through cut so you end up with two parts)

So, if you are ripping, keep the long side of the board against the fence.

This is making me nervous. If you are asking questions like this, I think you should watch some table saw safety videos and read up some more before using the saw. Check out this post.

[DerekG]

For ripping long boards like that I usually just stick a feather board on there and go to town. Position it so the featherboard is just in front of the blade, cut all the stock of one side from the boards. Then adjust fence and featherboard to cut off the other side.

[Andrew Hohnstein]

You're not the only one, Chip! I did watch Kelly Mehler's table saw video. I am OVERLY cautious to a fault so no worries. I appreciate the feedback.

[Roger T]

A Riving knife and or splitter is mandatory on long rip cuts like this. Especially in construction grade lumber where the likely hood of the kerf closing up is almost a given. When ripping these, do not stand directly in back of the board you are cutting in case anything goes wrong and you have a kickback. The piece will be able to go to the rear, without your body in the way. Get a push stick handy to finish the cut at the end.

Roger

[mdbuilder]

2*8 construction lumber, that can be fun

Please do not attempt without the splitter in place at a minimum, preferably the anti-kickback pawls and the blade guard as well. Most of the time it goes fine, fairly frequently the board will bow open considerably as the cut progresses which is a little alarming but not too dangerous. Every once in a while the board will pinch closed HARD, with the splitter in place the cut will just stop. Without the splitter ya better have a good grip on that sucker .

[Andrew Hohnstein]

Thanks, all. The saw is new so it does have a splitter, guard and pawls, thankfully. All are installed and I will not be taking them off unless absolutely necessary.

[jlawyer]

I often find that in this particular cut, taking a 2x12x96 and making two 2x6x96, that the strain relief will often cause the two halves exiting the blade to force together and pinch the blade and riving knife. My riving knife keeps the boards from kicking back; BUT there is still a considerable amount of force required to make the cut because of the friction. Enough to potentially be dangerous.

My solution is to take a stubby sized flat blade screw driver and after making about 12" of cut past the blade. Stopping the cut and inserting the screwdriver into the kerf width, then proceeding with the cut. This keeps the boards separated through the entire length and eliminates the high friction on the riving knife.

[AMarshall]

Safety should be your first priority and the responses have been great in that regard. My method would be to use the table saw with splitter/riving knife, and a featherboard before the blade to hold the board against the fence. Do a dry run with the blade retracted to make sure the roller stands are at the right height.

I would likely wait to joint everything until after it's ripped, since it is likely to move around a bit with the release of internal tension. As long as the lumber is reasonably flat & straight it will be safe to put it across the saw without jointing. Of course, any significant warping or cupping would be unwise to put across the saw but I bet you tried to buy nice lumber and avoided stuff like that.

[Beechwood Chip]

If you can do it with your fence, I'd add a vertical featherboard or board-buddies. With a board this long, it can be hard to control, so the more "extra hands" you have guiding it, the better. Especially if those extra hands don't have flesh, blood, bones, or nerves.

[Keggers]

If you can do it with your fence, I'd add a vertical featherboard or board-buddies. With a board this long, it can be hard to control, so the more "extra hands" you have guiding it, the better. Especially if those extra hands don't have flesh, blood, bones, or nerves.

You have excellent advice given in all the feedbacks. I agree with Beechwood. You must have a featherboard applying downward pressure IN FRONT OF THE BLADE to aid you in controlling the feed.

[Bombarde16]

OK, I'll be a contrarian, here.

I wouldn't run such a monster over a table saw. A 2x12x96 is well past the size where it makes sense to bring tool to workpiece, rather than workpiece to tool.

Set them on sawhorses and go to town with a circular saw. You can set up a fence if you wish; but I would simply draw a line and follow it freehand. (Yes, it'll mean more flattening in the end; but you're going to be flattening the top anyway.) Certainly safer than the ballet of running a monster joist along a rip fence.

[dlamulle]

Hey everybody. I joined the guild about a month or so ago. I've just recently outfitted my shop and got my table saw tuned up. I'm in the process of making the Ruobo workbench ala Schwarz for lack of having any flat level work surface.

I need to rip a number of 2x12x8' SYP boards either on the table saw or using my circular saw (no bandsaw or jigsaw available). I do not have an outfeed table on my TS but I do have two roller supports. My plan is to joint one edge with a router and then rip each board down the center. I'm hoping for some recommendations on 1) use of either circular or table saw and 2) if TS, then how should I handle the fence setup for maximum safety and a true cut. I've think I've heard that you shouldn't (if possible) have the board butting up to the fence when moving across the blade. I'm a table saw newbie and need some advice on this procedure. Thanks in advance.

Well, to really throw a wrench in the gears, I would bring the 2x12's back and buy 2x6's like they should be. When SYP lumber is graded it is by knot size per width of board. If you cut a grade 2 board in half (ripped) you end up with a grade 3 at least or worse. Framing lumber is graded to be used in the dimension it was graded at and that is for basic framing, unless these are number 1 structural lumber, which they probably aren't. If I was using it in my bench I would be even more particular. Just my 2 cents.

Dave

[AMarshall]

Well, to really throw a wrench in the gears, I would bring the 2x12's back and buy 2x6's like they should be. When SYP lumber is graded it is by knot size per width of board. If you cut a grade 2 board in half (ripped) you end up with a grade 3 at least or worse. Framing lumber is graded to be used in the dimension it was graded at and that is for basic framing, unless these are number 1 structural lumber, which they probably aren't. If I was using it in my bench I would be even more particular. Just my 2 cents.

Dave

The typical thinking in using 2x12's for bench material is to scavenge the outer 3"-4" of lumber from each side of the 2x12, leaving the center of the board as scrap. The center of the board typically has the heart of the tree, so the growth rings on the outer edge of a 2x12 can often be quartersawn or at least riftsawn. 2x6 lumber often doesn't have enough "good" stuff around the center to get a clear 3" section of quartersawn material. Plus, I assume they are more expensive per board foot than 2x12's.

[WoodClips]

I think Rob has the right idea. Why put yourself in a potentially dangerous situation when there is a safer alternative?

Go buy a low tooth count blade for your circular saw for $15-$20 (Freud 14 tooth thin kerf TK503 for example), draw a line down the center of your boards using a straight piece of something as a guide, then cut them free hand with the circular saw. With a sharp blade, I don't think this is going to take much more time or effort than using your table saw, and it is going to be a whole lot safer.

Let your boards sit overnight to stabilize because they are probably going to do some bowing.

The next day, rip a piece of 3/4" plywood (or whatever you have handy) so it is slightly narrower than your narrowest board. Center it on a board, attach it in place temporarily with a couple screws (the holes will be hidden when you glue the boards together) and take a pass down both sides with a bearing bit in your router. Now all your boards are straight and the same width--no table saw gymnastics required.

Rory

[dlamulle]

The typical thinking in using 2x12's for bench material is to scavenge the outer 3"-4" of lumber from each side of the 2x12, leaving the center of the board as scrap. The center of the board typically has the heart of the tree, so the growth rings on the outer edge of a 2x12 can often be quartersawn or at least riftsawn. 2x6 lumber often doesn't have enough "good" stuff around the center to get a clear 3" section of quartersawn material. Plus, I assume they are more expensive per board foot than 2x12's.

I agree with what you are saying but the OP stated he was going to rip the boards up the center. I believe that is where we got the notion he was attempting to get 2x6's from 2x12's. If he wanted to get the outer 3 to 4 inches from the boards then he should probably rip them with a skill saw and dress them up on a jointer. I hate cutting long lumber on a table saw without an outfeed table. If the rollers are skewed just a little either way it causes the board to want to drift in that direction possibly causing a problem.

Dave

[harderd]

Wow, a lot of acivity on this post. It is my belief that ripping lumber with a circular saw is one of the most dangerous things you can do. With that said, which ever method you choose make sure you have a good sharp blade and take your time with the cut, let the saw do the work. SYP will almost aways close when ripping down the middle of a wide board so it will want to kick back but if go slow the board will push through. Just my 2 cents worth.

[bywc]

I've think I've heard that you shouldn't (if possible) have the board butting up to the fence when moving across the blade.

If you are using the miter gauge to do a cross cut then you are correct you dont want to pinch the cut off between the blade and the fence but when making rip cuts then you want to make SURE its butting up to the fence otherwise it could move in a left or right direction across the length of the blade causing it to pinch and be thrown back.

[AMarshall]

I agree with what you are saying but the OP stated he was going to rip the boards up the center. I believe that is where we got the notion he was attempting to get 2x6's from 2x12's. If he wanted to get the outer 3 to 4 inches from the boards then he should probably rip them with a skill saw and dress them up on a jointer. I hate cutting long lumber on a table saw without an outfeed table. If the rollers are skewed just a little either way it causes the board to want to drift in that direction possibly causing a problem.

Dave

I had missed that small but critical statement by the OP, Dave. You are right on as usual. This is one of those operations that really is pushing the limits of safety, no matter how you do it. Most of our home shops aren't set up for long rips in lumber of this size, or at least mine isn't.

[WoodClips]

It is my belief that ripping lumber with a circular saw is one of the most dangerous things you can do.

I'm curious why you say this, Doug? When we're talking about making a cut down the middle of a 2x12 that is supported on sawhorses, these are the safety factors that come to mind:

1. Your hands are gripping the handles on the saw and are well away from the blade.
2. The saw is well supported on both sides of the cut.
3. The board is stationary and is heavy relative to the saw, so it isn't moving anywhere.
4. If the saw somehow managed to send the board flying, it would be away from the operator (unlike a table saw).
5. If the saw blade starts binding, it is still relatively easy to control the saw and release the trigger.

In my experience, you don't get catastrophic kickback events with a circular saw used in the fashion like you would with a table saw, so I'm curious what prompted your statement. Maybe there is something I'm not thinking of.

Rory

[TheOneHandedHandyMan]

If it were me, I would cross cut the pieces an inch or two larger than what you need, then rip them. Why rip an 8' board unless you need all 8' of it? The shorter the better, in my opinion.

Oh, and always use a fence on the TS.

[rmac]

This is one of those operations that really is pushing the limits of safety, no matter how you do it.

I disagree with that. Seems to me that a bandsaw with proper infeed and outfeed support eliminates almost all of the risk. (Or a hand-held jigsaw, if you have the patience.)

-- Russ

[jwatson]

when making my bench top i took 2 x 12s that were whatever length i had them at and cutting(cross cut with circular saw) them down to the length of my bench plus an inch or two for cleaning up later then ripped them(on the TS) to 3 inches. lot less material to feed through and worry about pinching. less material to manage around on a saw too. my bench is only 60 inches long so i cut 62 inches approximately.

if you rip with a circular saw i would keep some shims handy and as you cut put a shim in every 8 to 12 inches to keep it from pinching. not hard to do with a circular saw because you can move the saw down the cut and with a free hand place a shim. make sure the saw is well supported and your guide is locked in well. shouldn't be a problem if you take precautions. but they arent precautions you wouldn't worry about on a ts.

[Andrew Hohnstein]

If it were me, I would cross cut the pieces an inch or two larger than what you need, then rip them. Why rip an 8' board unless you need all 8' of it? The shorter the better, in my opinion.

Oh, and always use a fence on the TS.

Yes, I will be needing the full length. I have cut them down already from 12' lengths leaving a bit of length for both sides to even everything later.

[BuilderBill]

Hey, Andrew, welcome to the board! So you want to rip some 2x12s?

First of all, if you're going to be gluing these up I'll suggest you stack them flat with some stickers between them and forget about them for a month or so, at least two weeks. Give the lumber some time to get acclimated to your shop conditions and chill out a little. Construction lumber can be pretty wet off the stack and it'll move some as it dries, so the longer(within reason) you let it acclimate the more stable it'll be when you start cutting it down. It's gonna move, whether it moves as a 2x12 or as finished 2x6s you've made into a bench is up to you...

The main concern I see expressed is the danger of the wood bowing as you split it on the table saw, binding on the blade, eventually stalling the saw or throwing the board back atcha. Yes, that'll happen occasionally. It'll happen with construction-grade lumber from the Big Box, it'll happen with the high-dollar kiln-dried stuff you buy from a premium hardwoods dealer. When it starts to bind, just stop and shut the saw off. You can use a featherboard or just a long block clamped to your fence to keep the piece from rising but the biggest thing is to be aware and STOP EVERYTHING if things aren't going right. Set that board aside and rip it with your skilsaw, then you can joint another straight edge on it and run it through the table saw.

Roller stands can be a PITA. Here's what works for me if I absolutely have no other option: Establish the distance for the far stand, maybe 2/3 of the length of the board you're ripping. Set your fence for your rip, lower the blade and push a piece of stock against the fence and out to the stand. Push it a little further and see if it wants to pull away from the fence or into it, twist the stand until the board wants to stay parallel to the fence or maybe pushes into it just a little. Put a sandbag on the stand legs, nail it to the floor, mark it on the floor, do whatever you need to do to make sure it doesn't move. Now place your second stand halfway between the blade and the outer stand and repeat as necessary. When you finish this job, build yourself a couple of sawhorses a quarter-inch shorter than your tablesaw and give those roller stands to someone you don't like.

It ain't no big thing, nothing to be afraid of. Just be aware of what's going on and stop if things don't feel right. Most people who have had accidents with table saws will tell you they knew something wasn't going right but they pressed on regardless(with predictable results). Or that they knew what they were doing wasn't safe but they just did it anyway... Don't let this be you!

HTH,

Bill