Trouble with Bottle Stopper Mandrel


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I'm using a  5/16" bit and the appropriate tap but I am still getting my blank slipping on the mandrel once I take away the tailstock if I have to take anything more than a scraping off of the piece. Anyone try a dab of CA to hold it on? Tough to get the finished piece off the mandrel after? TIA

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I make mandrels out of dowels for similar projects, a Bottle mandrel is on my to buy list.   If a piece is slipping on my shop made mandrels, i usually wrap  the mandrel with a paper towel to tighten it up some.  Tissue paper if it's that close.   Not sure how that would work with the piece being threaded though.    And yeah, I would be worried about the piece not coming off the end cleanly with CA.  Some of the not permanent lock tite might do it. 

EDIT:  Are you turning the piece the right direction?  The threads on the mandrel should tighten the piece down as it turns, like a chuck or faceplate will.   If the piece is coming off the threaded mandrel, your bit or tap might be the wrong size.   Might try going a 32nd or so smaller bit, and then tap that.  The threads should be a bit more aggressive then. 

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I'm using the bit and die recommended by the mandrel manufacturer and turning in the appropriate direction. Too much resistance from a cut over rotates it and tears the threads in the wood. I actually just tried some thin CA on the threads and some activator to give the threads some extra strength before placing it on the mandrel.  Worked great but I did keep the tail stock engaged for most of the turning. Held strong for some detail work, burning some rings and sanding. 

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