Separate Toe Kicks


Recommended Posts

Thinking about the pain of leveling several cabinets in a long run, I previously posted asking about making one long cabinet.  This led me to a new option I hadn't seen which is apparently pretty common in cabinet shops today: building separate toe kicks.  The more I think about this method, the more I like it.  I think building the kicks separate from the cabinet will make the build faster, because the cuts and the joints will be simpler than cut out toe kicks.  It has the ease of installation of a single cabinet, because you only shim the long toe kick one time, instead of leveling each individual cabinet.  What do you guys think? 

Here is a google search with a bunch of links, followed by a video of someone making the toe kicks in this way.  I couldn't find a lot of videos, but I did find a lot of posts on other forums, and I thought it was something we should discuss here, because I like all of the analysis on this forum.

https://www.google.com/#q=separate+toe+kicks&*
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've built several runs of cabinets that way.  It is much easier to shim and level a ladder than individual cabinets.  In particular, in my garage when I built my workbench cabs, slab runs downhill about 1.5 inches over 14 feet.  I was able to do a 2x6 toe-kick ladder that was scribed to the floor and then covered by 1/4" ply to give it a finished look. Also had to contend with out of plumb walls too. So this isn't uncommon, and does solve a lot of plumb/square issues.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, freedhardwoods said:

How would you finish the end of a cabinet like in the pics below?

We inset the kick 1/2" at the finished ends. The cabinet has it's own finished end and then we run a finished skin around the toe ladder.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done it both ways, and don't find there is much of a time difference to add up to anything.  If the floor is WAY out of level, building a separate base is absolutely the way to go.  Otherwise, set the base cabinet backs to a line on the wall with a spacer under the back corner, and shim the fronts to level.  If the floor is not too bad, that's the faster way.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.