Marmotjr Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 1 minute ago, Dolmetscher007 said: Nah... Sorry my man, but a cross cut would be if you took the 3/4" board that is 3" wide, and let's say 24" long... and you turned the board perpendicular to the saw blade, and ran it across the blade "across the grain." That's a cross-cut. Oops, yeah. I was about to demand drawings, but I figured it out. Yup, that's a resaw and dangerous. Not as dangerous as a crosscut using a fence, but still dangerous and better done on the bandsaw. I was a little confused about the need to veneer end grain too. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 1 minute ago, Marmotjr said: Oops, yeah. I was about to demand drawings, but I figured it out. Yup, that's a resaw and dangerous. Not as dangerous as a crosscut using a fence, but still dangerous and better done on the bandsaw. I was a little confused about the need to veneer end grain too. LOL. Yeah... talking about boards' widths, lengths, thickness, et cetera can so easily get confusing. I am so glad to have YouTube and good books that actually use the correct terms. I work for a software technology company, so I am used to and love standardized terms for things. It is so much easier to talk about cross-cuts, rip-cuts, and re-sawing than it is to use terms like "Slicing, cutting length-wise, and chopping" for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 40 minutes ago, Dolmetscher007 said: I did break with what some of you guys said, and I bought a $6 piece of 1/2" red oak The other problem with using solid wood - aside from there being nothing but a bit of short grain holding it together after you create the kerf - is that there's the possibility the board will cup as the seasons change which means it will now sit proud of the saw surface and that can throw off your cuts. You want the ZCI to sit absolutely flush with the saw surface. At least try to use a riftsawn or quatersawn section of the board you bought if it has any. It's more stable. The good news is, when this one snaps or warps, you can glue it back together and use it as a template for the plywood one you'll be making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 2 hours ago, Eric. said: The other problem with using solid wood - aside from there being nothing but a bit of short grain holding it together after you create the kerf - is that there's the possibility the board will cup as the seasons change which means it will now sit proud of the saw surface and that can throw off your cuts. You want the ZCI to sit absolutely flush with the saw surface. At least try to use a riftsawn or quatersawn section of the board you bought if it has any. It's more stable. The good news is, when this one snaps or warps, you can glue it back together and use it as a template for the plywood one you'll be making. I doubt it. I've had loads of 3/"4" thick, 4" wide white oak boards stacked in a garage for over 2 years now, and they are as flat as pancakes still. I think that wood deforms and warps when it is cut and is drying, and I know that it can/will deform some if you cut it again, if you release some stored tension in the wood. But if this board warmps, cups, twists, or does anything other than stay dead flat, I will be very surprised. It's not impossible. But even if it does, I don't think it will cup in a way that 3-4 passes with my low-angle jack plane can't even out. In other words, I'm not worried about it. But... I do plan to make any subsequent ZCI's out of 1/2" ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Wood cups or warps when there's a disparity of moisture between one side and the other. I agree you're probably safe because it can breathe on both sides, but I'd still use QS/RS material if you can. My point was really that it's just not the best choice for a ZCI. Sometimes man-made is just better. Jigs and fixtures are the perfect use for quality ply. Does your saw have a riving knife or a splitter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 2 hours ago, Eric. said: Does your saw have a riving knife or a splitter? Yes. It does. What is "QS/RS material"? I love acronyms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 8 minutes ago, Dolmetscher007 said: Yes. It does. What is "QS/RS material"? I love acronyms. Quarter Sawn the rings run from 90 to 60 degrees. Rift Sawn, the rings run from 60 to 30 degrees. "Flatter" than 30 degrees is generally considered Plain Sawn or Flat Sawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Ahhhh... Right. Thanks Bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Going back to the "No re-sawing on a table saw" conversation... There are at least a couple of instances that I can think of where one would need to turn a board up on it's edge, and run the width side along the fence. When you cut a rabbit on the table saw Making raised panels for cab. doors Using a molding cutter wheel to cut a cove profile along the edge of a board (think: German shiplap) Now, I know there are alternative ways to do at least 2 of these tasks. But for the sake of this conversation, let's please assume that I do not have a band saw, router table, or even a router for that matter. So, assuming that I absolutely MUST use a table saw to make these cuts... what can someone do to make running taller narrow boards over a table saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 43 minutes ago, Dolmetscher007 said: Yes. It does. Which? There's a difference between the two... 21 minutes ago, Dolmetscher007 said: When you cut a rabbit on the table saw Making raised panels for cab. doors Using a molding cutter wheel to cut a cove profile along the edge of a board (think: German shiplap) In none of those scenarios are you trapping a tall, thin part between the blade and fence. If you set up the cuts right, it will just be a skinny off-cut that falls away to the left of the blade, out of the danger zone. The part of resawing on the table saw that makes it dangerous is when the two pieces separate and you lose control over the piece that's trapped between the blade and fence. There are ways to make table saw resaws somewhat safer...featherboards, auxiliary fences, custom push blocks...but generally it's just a stupid thing to do because it's not the right tool for the job. Bandsaw. Start a new piggy bank. You can get an entry level 14" Grizzly for barely more than $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 It has a riving knife, because it moves up and own along with the blade carriage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 4 hours ago, Dolmetscher007 said: Going back to the "No re-sawing on a table saw" conversation... There are at least a couple of instances that I can think of where one would need to turn a board up on it's edge, and run the width side along the fence. When you cut a rabbit on the table saw Making raised panels for cab. doors Using a molding cutter wheel to cut a cove profile along the edge of a board (think: German shiplap) Now, I know there are alternative ways to do at least 2 of these tasks. But for the sake of this conversation, let's please assume that I do not have a band saw, router table, or even a router for that matter. So, assuming that I absolutely MUST use a table saw to make these cuts... what can someone do to make running taller narrow boards over a table saw? You can clamp a sacrificial fence over the regular fence and bury part of the dado blade into it. Now you are not placing anything between the blade and a fence. It's more like a giant router table on it's side now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 If you absolutely must 'resaw' on the tablesaw, use a tall fence accessory, a featherboard, and don't cut all the way through. Leave a strip in the middle, then finish with a hand saw. Don't try to cut more than an inch per pass. Its still not ideal, but a little safer, at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 9 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: If you absolutely must 'resaw' on the tablesaw, use a tall fence accessory, a featherboard, and don't cut all the way through. Leave a strip in the middle, then finish with a hand saw. Don't try to cut more than an inch per pass. Its still not ideal, but a little safer, at least. Wait a minute!!! <record scratches> If I leave a thin strip of wood in the middle and saw it out by hand, that will leave a ridge in the middle of the board. That would mean I'd need a... drum sander!!! ERIC!!!! GET HIM!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Eric. Posted May 27, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Or a planer. Or a hand plane...or a damn bandsaw like we've been saying so you don't have the ridge in the first place. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolmetscher007 Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Since this thread has gone from A-Z, might as well as here... Can anyone tell me what tool this is in this video at 0:54 in? It looks like a massive flush cut router attachment. But I'm not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Shaper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 Large tilting arbor shaper ! And not an operation I would do freehand either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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