Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I've seen in a couple luthiery videos some kind of glue the people were using for scribing inlay material - it was heat "deactivated," meaning that after they stuck the inlay material on and made their scribe, they put it under a heat lamp for a minute or so and the glue lets loose. Does anyone know what this stuff is called and where I can get it? It's not hide glue. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of superglue but I'm not 100% sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Heatlock? http://www.betterbond.com/heatlock/heatlock-FAQ.htm http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/heatlockiron-onveneergluepint.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Don't think that's what I'm looking for, Tom. It appears that stuff creates a permanent bond, it just happens to be heat activated. I need something that is heat DEactivated. I should also mention that it needs to be able to adhere to pearl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I'm not sure if it helps but Clickspring uses Loctite 603 to bond metal parts and releases them with heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Getting warmer...but the 30 minute set time makes it not quite ideal for inlay. Also it's formulated for threads so I'm not sure its bonding capabilities for pearl & wood. There's plenty of returns on gargle for "heat activated glue"...nothing for "heat DEactivated." Mike found me some spray stuff that might work...or I could just default to carpet tape like I've used in the past. My main concern is when I go to pry off the pearl pieces...they could crack. Way too expensive for that risk. And time consuming to make a whole new piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgreenb Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I think you're overthinking it I really do think a TINY (1/8-1/4" square) piece of carpet tape will be enough to hold it down while you scribe but not so much that you won't be able to get it off again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 You can try shellac and it will release with heat or alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QHC Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Contact adhesive (formica glue) releases with heat or lacquer thinner. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Maybe try the masking tape trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 What kind of heat source are you working with? Most adhesives will break down under heat, it just depends on the adhesive and amount of heat before it releases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 1 minute ago, MattF said: What kind of heat source are you working with? Most adhesives will break down under heat, it just depends on the adhesive and amount of heat before it releases. I saw in a video a luthier just used a regular desk lamp and put the bulb near the piece of inlay for about a minute...and then just lightly twisted it and it popped off. I'm sure B is right that I'm overthinking it, and I already have several "acceptable" options available to me in my shop...but it just pisses me off that there's a specific formula available for this specific task...but I can't find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 3 minutes ago, Eric. said: I saw in a video a luthier just used a regular desk lamp and put the bulb near the piece of inlay for about a minute...and then just lightly twisted it and it popped off. I'm sure B is right that I'm overthinking it, and I already have several "acceptable" options available to me in my shop...but it just pisses me off that there's a specific formula available for this specific task...but I can't find it. If you really want a liquid adhesive for your project, try to find something with a low Tg (Glass Transition Temperature). I have had to do alot of this at work, but we look for things that are stable at +85C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Have you looked on stewmac.com yet? If its used in lutherie, they probably have it. Also, have you considered plain old crafty hot glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Dangit, now you have my interest peaked. "What sort of project would Eric do perl inlay on?", I keep asking myself ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Polyvinyl Acetate? (Elmers Glue) Tg 30-45C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 42 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Dangit, now you have my interest peaked. "What sort of project would Eric do perl inlay on?", I keep asking myself ... The MOP is for the flower petals... I just did a trial run with regular ol' carpet tape, and it was...okay. I got a couple other tape recommendations from Master Trip that I'm gonna try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 According to Google, some peoples seem to be using school-grade white washable glue, Elmers glue like MattF said, and heat it up a bit to release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 You guys think that stuff would bond to pearl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Eric, would this work for your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Immortan D Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 26 minutes ago, Eric. said: You guys think that stuff would bond to pearl? I don't think so. But tis cheap to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 10 minutes ago, Chet K said: Eric, would this work for your project. That goofball is lucky he has such a nice tool collection behind him, because otherwise I don't think I would have made it through ten seconds of that video after seeing his head and hearing him speak. LOL Yeah that would probably work...although it seems a little time consuming when there should be some other adhesive pre-made and available for this purpose. I've got enough options to try at this point that I'm sure one of them will work. Thanks for all the ideas. And of course Trip made the obvious point, "Why don't you ask this question on a luthier forum?" Which is probably what I should have done in the first place. But I'm not a member of one and joining would take like 30 seconds. So it's pretty much out of the question. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 3M DP810 breaks down at a little over 200 F. I use it on golf club heads, not only because it breaks down way lower than the epoxy that laminates the shafts, but it's much easier to clean off than regular golf club epoxy. I can't see a luthier using PVA or superglue. My Daughter is a violinist, and I've been in a few violin repair shops since she was a toddler. I've never seen anything but a hide glue pot in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmotjr Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I've always been told CA releases to heat, but I could be wrong with that...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Why not use hot melt glue? If you have been using double stick tape, I am guessing you just want to lock it down while you trace out your inlay, then remove the inlay hole you excavate the space for the inlay. Another idea, while It's over thirty years since I built my banjo so take this with a grain of salt, but as I recall, I first painted the fret board with yellow tempura paint, then used a little Elmer's to glue the pearl inlay, carefully traced out the outline, then removed the inlay. The pearl came off easily from the painted surface-so easily I had to be careful while tracing not to dislodge the inlay. That technique left a clear outline that made routing the space much easier. The paint sanded off easily and left no trace. Of course, it was ebony so pretty tight grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 You guys think that stuff would bond to pearl? I have a stone arrowhead that I found as a kid, better than 4 decades ago. Dropped it on a concrete floor, and broke it in half. The dab of Elmer's white glue I put on it then is still holding it together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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