Steve Flooks Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Hi guys, New to this forum and hoping you wise guys can give me some tips. Just started a restoration on a solid mahogany roll top desk, circa 1920/1930. Its a project for sure, the roll top needs repairing but that's ok, its been removed to gain access. I started sanding the old finish off as it was worn/faded in many places. After preparing the desk top I noticed that the join along two of the desk top planks have opened up, this was after sanding. I am guessing the sanding removed some of the glue between the planks and the summer sun has expanded the wood exposing the join. I have access to the front/back across the desk planks, should I re-glue and use clamping cauls to secure? On a 2nd point, I am going to use Jenkins Jecofil, brown mahogany, to fill the grain. I'll sand done to 220 before applying. I am correct in that you apply with the grain then wipe cross grain. When dry you sand flat? Repeating twice minimum? Once this prep is done I am going to stain with Rustins Wood Dye, can someone recommend a top finish after this? Varnish or wax finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Yeah that's a failed glue joint but sanding had nothing to do with it. The only real fix will be to disassemble, cut new joints and re-glue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 I think what Eric said is correct, if you want to close the gaps you would have to disassemble it. I would be afraid that if you glued it and applied clamp pressure to close the gap you would probably end up creating a failed glue joint some were in the face frame or some were else. maybe not immediately but certainly in the future. I am not sure when it comes to older furniture if there would be a problem but you might look into filiing the gap with epoxy, sand it and then do your finishing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Flooks Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Thanks guys, the good news is that after a bit of investigation I managed to locate the two screws that were holding the top down. So I now have the top off and the side panels removed, will do as suggested and cut new joints, glue and re-assemble. Did you guys have any tips about what to use for the finish top coat? Will be using a Rustins Mahogany wood stain and just wondered what was best to use to protect the wood on the final coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drzaius Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 +1 on the ARS. Especially if you don't have a ton of experience or spray equipment. Very easy to apply & great looking results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Before you stain you might want to find a small out of sight area and apply the Arm-R-Seal and see how you like. A lot of people here don't use stain they just go straight to the top coat. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Flooks Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Great help guys, will see where I can source some ARS here in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 14 minutes ago, Steve Flooks said: Great help guys, will see where I can source some ARS here in the UK. I don't think you can get it there. @TerryMcK can give you some comparable alternatives. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Flooks Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Managed to chat with TerryMck, he was a great help. We can only get Enduro-VAR here in the UK, I am guessing the lovely guys in Brussels don't like the content of the ARS! The Enduro-VAR is water based, but seems like it will adhere to most treated surfaces, even oil based, as long as you leave them to dry long enough. Thanks for you help guys. Will post a final picture when its done....but may take a little while! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Flooks Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Hi Guys, just a quick update, the lose plank is now completely lose, came apart real easy so I am going to prep it for re-gluing, there were no plugs between planks so I might add some for extra strength. I need to make up a jig to secure it as I have no cauls or clamps big enough. I had a question about the tambour, it needs quite a lot of refurb work, some of the strips are damaged in the middle so I was thinking to move them to the back of the tambour so they are hidden. It looks like the strapping on the tambour needs replacing, its very fragile, can anyone recommend a suitable material as a replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 http://www.vandykes.com/multitambour-cloth/p/205856/ You don't need to add reinforcement to that joint as long as the joint is straight and clean. The glue is stronger than the wood itself. You can use some biscuits for alignment but nothing will add to the strength. FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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