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Derek_PNW

What type of hinges?

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Hello All, I a trying to figure out the type of hinges I should use to mount the one inch thick 24"x44" black walnut top to the base of the coffee table. The mountable area on the base is an 1-1/2" in width. The top will be flush all around the base and I would prefer to not use a piano hinge and if possible have nothing exposed. The SOSS invisible hinges look appealing, but will it bind? I am not afraid of having to cut a mortise. Thanks for the help. Here are a few pictures of what I am working with.

 

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How thick is the top ?  Getting the mortices just right for soss hinges takes some practice and a mortice jig of some sort is a good idea.  The thickness of the top will dictate the biggest soss hinges you can use. Plus soss hinges open 180 degrees so the top might need support when open or it could crack the wood if pressure is put on it. Maybe a chain or cord inside could stop the swing at 110 or 120 degrees.

I can't  think of a substitute hinge right now. The 35 mm European concealed hinges don't cover a 1 1/2" overlay.

 

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How thick is the top ?  Getting the mortices just right for soss hinges takes some practice and a mortice jig of some sort is a good idea.  The thickness of the top will dictate the biggest soss hinges you can use. Plus soss hinges open 180 degrees so the top might need support when open or it could crack the wood if pressure is put on it. Maybe a chain or cord inside could stop the swing at 110 or 120 degrees.

I can't  think of a substitute hinge right now. The 35 mm European concealed hinges don't cover a 1 1/2" overlay.

 

 

The top is an 1-1/16" thick and quite heavy. I believe a SOSS hinge will be able to be mortised in. Additionally, thanks for the suggestion on chain. I was thinking that or gas shocks so the lid won't smash any fingers.

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Take a look at soss.com at the dimensions for the hinges for wood (they make them for metal furniture too)

I'm afraid the hinge is going to need be so close to the edge of your top and the depth of the mortice so close to the thickness of your top it's going to be kinda fragile. Those hinges aren't  intended for your application. 

A surface mount concealed hinge just might work for you. Might need 3 or 4 hinges. You would need to cut a recess on the inside of the chest so the remaining wood was 3/4" . The hinge can screw to the underside of your top with no recess needed. I strongly encourage you to do a mock up w scrap so you understand how they work before you attempt to modify your table.

https://woodworker.com/offset-opening-concealed-hinge-mssu-937-058.asp?search=Surface mount concealed hinge&searchmode=2

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I used Brusso hinges and lid stays on my blanket chests.  Not cheap but as elegant as it gets.

 

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Thanks Wdwerker and Eric!

 

I appreciate the pictures for reference, but mostly to just look at! Wow! Heading to Rockler this morning to source some hinges. I want to finish this coffee table! I do regret using poplar for the base now though. I would have liked to use a nicer wood and not paint the base with chalk paint. You all are wearing on me. The natural wood color is the way, not stain. [emoji23]

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Probably, but since they're only sold in pairs, you may as well just buy the standard butt hinges and the lid stays at that point.  The stays are not difficult to install.  Just build a jig that creates the stops for the router, and plunge.  No different than plunging a mortise for a tenon...just needs to be dead nuts accurate, which is what the jig is for.

Took me about an hour to build the jig and install four stays.  They also come with clear and simple instructions.

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