wdwerker Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 You could retain the drop down table feature by making the stand with a tapered top. To fit inside the lowered table profile, then straight to the floor from there. A drawer or 2 could fit in there and pull out sideways. One detail I have decided to build is there will be a riser block on top of each caster so it's easier to reach the locking lever when the caster swings under the cabinet. I'm quite willing to sacrifice 2 or 3 inches to improve the functionality. My drum sander parks under a big rack and locking 3 casters keeps it steady enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 On 10/14/2017 at 10:16 AM, Eric. said: I used two thin scraps of hardwood, ran one on one side and the other on the other side, measured with calipers and adjusted as needed until they both took the same reading. Locked it down...haven't touched it since. It's a good machine and seems to hold its settings. Make sure when you do your calibrations you have that little "wide panel lever" (whatever it's called) in the correct position (can never remember if it's down or up). You'll use the lever when sanding panels wider than the head. When you flip it it will raise the outboard side of the head by a few thou so you don't get any ridges in the field of the panel. So for calibration you need to make sure it's in the correct position otherwise that feature won't work...obviously. The wide panel lever...is yours very loose? Mine slides forward and back a few inches and has about an inch of slop from side to side with no effort. The manual says to push it to the side to about 45* for wide panels. I can't move mine, the manual says there are a couple bolts that were tightened for shipping that will need loosened, but the manual doesn't identify which bolts they are. I'm going to use MDF for calibration, I just need to get some. I had to spend about twenty minutes fighting the conveyor tracking, it frayed up one edge a little before I realized the belt was too far to the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pridmore Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 On 8/29/2017 at 10:45 PM, TIODS said: Here's the journal for that stand.. This is a fantastic coincidence, as I just Googled "Supermax 19-38 cabinet" this morning. Mine is still on the stand that came with the sander. It's got a busted weld on one of the caster mounts and is a PIA to push around. I guess I should have known that TIODS did a journal on one. He does everything and is my hero. Thanks again for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 20 minutes ago, pridmore said: This is a fantastic coincidence, as I just Googled "Supermax 19-38 cabinet" this morning. Mine is still on the stand that came with the sander. It's got a busted weld on one of the caster mounts and is a PIA to push around. I guess I should have known that TIODS did a journal on one. He does everything and is my hero. Thanks again for the link. lol, not sure I'd go that far.. Necessity is the mother of invention! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 33 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: The wide panel lever...is yours very loose? Mine slides forward and back a few inches and has about an inch of slop from side to side with no effort. The manual says to push it to the side to about 45* for wide panels. I can't move mine, the manual says there are a couple bolts that were tightened for shipping that will need loosened, but the manual doesn't identify which bolts they are. There's about an inch of slop in mine in the upright (off) position. Once I start pushing it down it feels engaged to around 130* where it stops. The rest...I don't know about all that. Been too long since I set mine up to remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 The rod is round with a flat portion. It is more of an on / off mechanism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 I picked up some MDF this afternoon and went to calibrating. With very light passes there was definitely a deviation between the left and right side, but it ultimately took just a minor adjustment. Making multiple passes took a while, but I'm pretty well convinced it's locked in. I do have a bit of a gouge on the outboard side. It reminds me of a scrape left by a planer or jointer knife knick. I can't see anything wrong with the sand paper or drum. Soon I will take the factory paper off and put on 120 grit, hopefully whatever the problem is will go with the 80 grit paper. Conveyor belt tracking is a bit of a pain. Easy adjustments obviously, but I keep catching it veerrrry slowly drifting to one side or the other. I have one frayed edge already, hopefully I can prevent it from getting worse. The pictures are of the test piece, one showing the deviation before adjustment and the other showing the gouge/track mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 On 10/14/2017 at 11:16 AM, Eric. said: Make sure when you do your calibrations you have that little "wide panel lever" (whatever it's called) in the correct position (can never remember if it's down or up). Is this just on the Supermax version of the sanders? I have the performax 16-32 and dont know of any wide panel lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Just now, Alan G said: Is this just on the Supermax version of the sanders? I have the performax 16-32 and dont know of any wide panel lever. Yes I believe it was a new feature on the Supermax. They made a number of changes to help with the head parallelism issues that people had with the Performax sanders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan G Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 okay glad I was not missing something there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted October 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Oh yeah...since this has become as much of a review thread as anything else, I should mention I got that lever working. There were just two bolts that needed loosening, as the manual said. They could have included a picture, but whatever. There is a lot of slop in the lever, but I don't suppose that it hinders performance at all, it's just the way it is. That lever seems to be pretty non-precise anyway, even in the manual it says to take a test pass the same width of your wide board/panel and adjust the lever up or down as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted October 19, 2017 Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 6 minutes ago, bleedinblue said: Oh yeah...since this has become as much of a review thread as anything else, I should mention I got that lever working. There were just two bolts that needed loosening, as the manual said. They could have included a picture, but whatever. There is a lot of slop in the lever, but I don't suppose that it hinders performance at all, it's just the way it is. That lever seems to be pretty non-precise anyway, even in the manual it says to take a test pass the same width of your wide board/panel and adjust the lever up or down as needed. Yeah it's pretty much on/off. The slop in it is moot...just hasn't been engaged. Kind of like a clutch that's not tight to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 If you try to use it only half engaged the pressure can make it pop back to flat. It's off or on like the other guys said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 @bleedinblue Why did you choose the 16-32 over the 19-38? I'm in the market for a sander in the next little while but i don't know which supermax to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 I gave my 19/38 its first good workout yesterday . I cleaned up (2) 17" x 60" pieces I had glued up . They started a 64 th over 3/4 and ended up at 11/16. I was able to run at close to full speed & occasionally the red light would come on when it slowed the feed rate at thicker places. My old 16/32 was from before the " Intellisand " speed controller came out . I was quite impressed. At the size and price difference the choice is simple. Either you have the space and budget for the bigger one or it's going to be a tight fit and space is an issue in the shop or the budget. At 45" long x 42" wide (at the biggest point) on the metal stand the 19/38 does take up a good bit of room. Then you have to consider infeed and outfeed space. I'm planning on saving a couple inches of width when I build my drawer base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 4 hours ago, Chestnut said: @bleedinblue Why did you choose the 16-32 over the 19-38? I'm in the market for a sander in the next little while but i don't know which supermax to get. Really the footprint. The $200 cheaper price tag didn't hurt, and I think that 32"-ish of total capacity is still pretty decent. If space wasn't a factor, I probably still would have gone with the 19-38 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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