Endless oak


wtnhighlander

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8 hours ago, RichardA said:

I hope your mortise on the stretcher was long enough to push when you send the wedge through it's mortise.  The mortise on the stretcher should fall a little under the leg, so the wedge has room to force the stretcher tight.  Don't ask me how I know.

Yep, mortise undercuts by about 3/16".

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6 hours ago, wdwerker said:

I wonder if a trip under a sun lamp would darken that mulberry  ? I can picture a woodworker in a tanning salon " it's not for me, it's for my mulberry "

Probably. I've seen the lye technique used in some of those cool japanese woodworking videos. I promise to test on a scrap first! :D

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Today, I cut the mortises into tge legs to accept the side stretchers. Used a shop made template, router bushing snd 1/2" up cut spiral bit.

Side note - why are some router bushings in a set longer than others? I had to cut 1/4" off my 3/4" diameter bushing's length. It was 3/4" long, but my template was made of 1/2" ply.

Anyway, the routing went well, if slowly. Even if my Hitachi plunge router HAD some semblance of chip collection, it would have been negated by the bushing, anyway. I had to stop every 15 seconds or so to vacuum the chips out of the mortise to make clearangs for the bushing to move.

Mortises done, I started to finesse the tenons to fit. Still some work to do there. Next up on my tool with list is a decent shoulder plane ....

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2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Allrighty, the table base is roughed out. Joineey cut well enough for dry assembly, but still needs some tweaking when my shoulder plane arrives.

 

20171123_163216.jpg

Uh huh, I get it now. You took this commission so you'd have an excuse to buy more tools.  Slick, I won't say a word.  Coming along nicely I must say.

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9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Driving the decision for 207 is that dries clear. The long work time is good for what I need, too.

It has pretty much all the strengths that the slow hardener has except it stays clear. I agree. The only big downside is it's a bit more expensive but that's worth it. Some day i want to try using it for a topcoat for something that goes outside.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

It has pretty much all the strengths that the slow hardener has except it stays clear. I agree. The only big downside is it's a bit more expensive but that's worth it. Some day i want to try using it for a topcoat for something that goes outside.

Problem with epoxy is that it's very sensitive to UV, which turns it yellow & degrades it pretty quickly. Some epoxies are UV resistant, but I've never used them. Polyester resin is much more UV resistant than epoxy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been a bit neglectful of this thread lately.  I had some shop time over the past couple of days, and managed to cut all the pieces for the bench base.

Here is my method for milling out the tenons with a dado stack.

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First, I set a stop block to define the shoulder. My sled is a single runner design based on one from Matthias Wandell. Flipping it backwards allows me to use it with the dado stack.

To avoid moving the stop, I use a scrap block, thicker than the stop, to offset the workpiece for milling away the remaining material.

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  • 1 month later...

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