drpg

Beginner in Routing: First cut is a mess

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I am a beginner in routing and looking to learn for some DIY home projects. I bought/setup a Craftman's router/table. It is a non-variable speed router (27000 RPM). I tried two practice cuts using a 1/4'' Craftsman Roman Oagee bit.

I'm attaching some pictures that show the setup. In the first cut, the test block got burned (picture not attached). This was most likely because I fed the stock too slowly. For the second cut, I tried to a go slightly faster/steady, but not too fast. However, as I slid the block across, I felt a somewhat strong resistance when the bit first came in touch with wood. I was not able to slide it past the bit, and felt like it got 'stuck' in the bit. I was not able to keep the board parallel against fence (given the resistance) any longer, and hence, I shut the router down (felt like I was going to lose control of the board). My feed direction is right to left on the router table.

By looking at the pictures, what did I do wrong? Is the bit positioned too high? I made sure that the bearing and the fence are aligned. Should the fence extensions be tighter/closer to the bit?

1. I am going to get a push stick/block to hopefully provide more force to keep the board aligned to the fence at all times (and keep my fingers far away). But my thinking was that the board should have been able to 'glide' along the fence with not too much force. Maybe, I tried cutting too much material in one go?

2. I will get some more scrap material to practice on, but I would appreciate any help on why I'm messing up.

 

 

 

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#1 on sjk.   That's what it looks like, to big of a bite. You don't need the bottom of the bit to be above the tables surface either.  Take small bites, and move your fence just a little after each pass.   As the old saying goes,,"Patience Grasshopper".   One more thing.  Tighten the bit in the collet, it looks like that big bite caused the bit to ride upward.

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Other tips:  buy a higher quality bit from Freud or Whiteside.  Wax your table.  Don't use the featherboards when you don't have to (or relax them a bit).  You don't really have to use the fence with profile bits because the bearing is what guides the cut.  Use a sacrificial board to back up your cut so the bit doesn't blow out the fibers like that upon exit.

But yeah - mainly what these guys said - take smaller bites, especially in end grain.  Hard maple is...hard.  Even with high quality bits you shouldn't bite off more than you can chew.

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Can't add much to what the guys have said so far with the exception that if you can't cobble together a coping sled, you can use a wide piece of scrap lumber to guide it.  I do that pretty regularly.  Make sure it's square on two sides - the leading edge and the one referencing the fence.  And like everyone has already said, take smaller bites, sneak up on the final depth and you'll end up with a much better finished cut.

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The advice here is all solid.  Smaller passes, use something to support your workpiece, wax the table, get a better bit.  There's not much else to add to that list, really.

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Yea you were taking too much of a bite out so lower the cutter and do it in two passes.

Also be doubly cautious when cutting end grain. It may pop off a lump when you exit. That is fine if you are cleaning up the long grain sides afterwards but a bummer if you aren't. Support the fibres with a piece of scrap when you exit the cut.

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