For Sale: Grizzly G0513X2F 17" Bandsaw - St. Louis


Eric.

Recommended Posts

53 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I already called dibs on that. He's not looking to sell unfortunately :(

I don't sell things unless they're not performing to my standards.  No interest in upgrading just to spend money.  I really have to be at wit's end to go through the headache of ordering a new machine.  And that Grizzly table saw has been nothing but accurate and reliable since day one.  I hope it stays that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eric, that Minimax is one sweet bandsaw.  I noticed he uses a carbide tipped blade, I often wonder what my cut quality would be like on my Rikon 18" with a carbide blade.  I did 9" resaws, 1/4" thick on 50" long bubinga but had to sand down to 3/16" due to the rough sawn face, it was a very slow process.  The cut surface was very rough so I had to joint the face between each pass.  In the video he is cutting thin veneers without jointing the sawn face!   I may try a carbide blade the next time to see what the difference in cut quality will be.  Look forward to hearing/ seeing your new saw in action!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The most important thing about cut quality is how much tension the saw can put on the blade, so the blade stays as rigid as possible going through the cut.  The blade in that video looks like a Woodmaster CT, since it has variable tooth spacing, but I'm not sure if any 16" saw can tension the thick Woodmaster.

The Laguna Resaw King is a very thin carbide tipped blade, so it is designed to operate at tensions that smaller saws can crank up.  I had one for a while for my 14" saw.  It could make a very decently clean cut, if you didn't try to push it too fast.  I tried other carbide tipped blades on that saw, but can't remember the names, and they all cut about the same as the Resaw King, which wasn't bad, but very slow.

I have had non-carbide tipped blades that cut really cleanly, but not for very long.  The carbide tipped blades keep on cutting cleanly, I guess because the teeth don't dull anything like as fast as regular teeth.  My 24" saw, with the thick, Woodmaster Ct, has cut more than 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress, and still cuts good enough for anything, but the blade is, if I'm remembering correctly, .035" thick, so not made to turn around smaller wheels.

I'm sure your Rikon 18 would tension a Resaw King, and it would be worth getting one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Tom King said:

The most important thing about cut quality is how much tension the saw can put on the blade, so the blade stays as rigid as possible going through the cut.  The blade in that video looks like a Woodmaster CT, since it has variable tooth spacing, but I'm not sure if any 16" saw can tension the thick Woodmaster.

The Laguna Resaw King is a very thin carbide tipped blade, so it is designed to operate at tensions that smaller saws can crank up.  I had one for a while for my 14" saw.  It could make a very decently clean cut, if you didn't try to push it too fast.  I tried other carbide tipped blades on that saw, but can't remember the names, and they all cut about the same as the Resaw King, which wasn't bad, but very slow.

I have had non-carbide tipped blades that cut really cleanly, but not for very long.  The carbide tipped blades keep on cutting cleanly, I guess because the teeth don't dull anything like as fast as regular teeth.  My 24" saw, with the thick, Woodmaster Ct, has cut more than 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress, and still cuts good enough for anything, but the blade is, if I'm remembering correctly, .035" thick, so not made to turn around smaller wheels.

I'm sure your Rikon 18 would tension a Resaw King, and it would be worth getting one.

Thanks Tom, I may give one a try for my next resaw project.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't try to get the longest blade you can for your saw.  On some saws, the closer to the starting point of the blade tensioning mechanism, the more rigid the whole assembly is.  I bought my 24" cheap because the seller tried to run maximum length blades, and they wouldn't stay on, so he thought the saw was out of whack.  It wasn't.  I ordered one an inch over the minimum length, and won't get anything different from now on.

I don't know if Bandsawbladesdirect sells the Resaw King, but if they do, that's who I would buy it from.  Their welds have always been perfect for anything I've bought from them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, pkinneb said:

Congrats! Damn that was fast LOL. 

You would think that with the amount of patience that woodworking requires...it might translate into patience with tool purchases...but it doesn't. LOL  And we know this.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Eric. said:

You would think that with the amount of patience that woodworking requires...it might translate into patience with tool purchases...but it doesn't. LOL  And we know this.

True, Soooo true.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Eric. said:

Can't even make s'mores with it because it's SPF...unless you like yours with undertones of creosote. :D

Like I said...going where it belongs: in the gar-baj (that's French for trash).

If people are, and they are, willing to pay for pieces made from the stuff ...

Might as well pay for (part) of the blade.

Just a thought.

treePallet.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, collinb said:

If people are, and they are, willing to pay for pieces made from the stuff ...

Might as well pay for (part) of the blade.

Just a thought.

treePallet.jpg

 

LOL - By the time I made that ridiculous thing and sold it for eleven dollars, my blade would cost me about five hundred bucks if you factor in my labor.

Aside from the fact that it's junk wood...I wouldn't send cocobolo through my planer if it was full of nails at one time.  Simply not worth the risk, ever.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Chet locked this topic
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.