quick *adjustable* tapering jig

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36 minutes ago, Chet said:

Pretty cool.

How did you make/counter sink the shape of the t-bolts?


Two side-by-side holes with a forstner then cleaned out the middle with a chisel.


29 minutes ago, Woodenskye said:

Nice jig Eric!  What is with pressure?


Because it's a fairly long jig you have to pull it pretty far back to start the cut.  This leaves not a whole lot of runner in the miter slot so there's a tiny bit of slop as I approach the cut.  By the time the workpiece is being cut the runner is fully engaged so it's not a big deal, but I wanted to remind myself to always have slight pressure in the marked direction so that the sled always approaches the blade in an identical way...just to be on the safe side.  OCD

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31 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

That'll do the trick.  I am thinking that a stop in the lower let corner of the jig (on the face near edge of the sled) would be nice just to futher restrain the work piece against the push of the blade.

Yeah that's what I was talking about when I said "L-shaped cleats."  That's usually what I use on my disposable jigs and just hold the workpiece down with toggle clamps.

You can certainly add cleats to one or both ends to make the jig repeatable if you have a bunch of one taper you need to do.  But it's not necessary to secure the workpiece...I can assure you the three clamps lock it down rock hard.

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2 hours ago, drzaius said:

How well do you suppose it would work just running the jig against the fence as opposed to using a runner?

It would work but every time you do that you lose a tiny bit of sled since you have to re-establish the zero clearance point in order to line your marks up accurately.  For my disposable jigs I usually do use the fence, but this is a more permanent solution.  It also eliminates any possibility of an errant cut if your jig drifts away from the fence at all.

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