Chestnut

Networkign Devices Stand

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Making a small stand for networking devices and some drawers for storage. Wood will be Walnut and Cherry. I'm going to use some of my curly stock for drawer fronts and some of my straighter stock for the side panels.

Plan

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3d model

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not putting your networking stuff in the drawers are you? Switches and stuff would be fine but it would limit your wireless signal on your router being there. 2.4GHz would be a little hampered but the 5ghz would be rough. plus the heat.

Looking forward to watching this though! 

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1 hour ago, bushwacked said:

not putting your networking stuff in the drawers are you? Switches and stuff would be fine but it would limit your wireless signal on your router being there. 2.4GHz would be a little hampered but the 5ghz would be rough. plus the heat.

Looking forward to watching this though! 

I was thinking of insulating one of the drawers with fiberglass and lead foil and putting all my wireless items in there, and then wrapping it all with an electric blanket to keep the electrical pixies warm ... :P

The open shelf is where the switch, router, POE injector, and modem will sit. My AP will eventually end up mounted to the wall upstairs. It's currently just sitting on the floor on our highest level. Gotta run CAT6 yet but so many other things have priority. I might screw a power strip to the back for cable management though maybe with a panel to hide the cords. I'll design that on the fly we'll see what happens.

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

. I might screw a power strip to the back for cable management though maybe with a panel to hide the cords. I'll design that on the fly we'll see what happens.

You can make the first drawer shorter and make the extra space available from the back, so you can sit your power strip and  power supplies there.

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1 hour ago, bushwacked said:

I vote this option :)

I couldn't help but to run my mouth sorry.

33 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

You can make the first drawer shorter and make the extra space available from the back, so you can sit your power strip and  power supplies there.

I was thinking having a space behind all of the drawers. It'd be nice to be able to coil the excess cable and them maybe have hooks to hang it. I'm terrible with cable management i always tell myself i'm going to tidy up my cables but never do. Biggest thing i learned in a past project is account for the power adapter size those things seem small untill you try and fit them them in a small spot. They only go 1 or 2 ways.

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I do have a question for the wisdom of the forum. I'm going to do the drawer dividers as web frames just like a chest of drawers. With web frames would using plywood be ok for the frame except for the front which will be walnut in this case?

I've attached an image from one of Marc's videos showing what i'm talking about.

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These will be connecting the sides of the stand together and supporting the drawers.

 

 

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Finally got back to this after the new DC setup. Got the sides mortised and ready for assembly. There were plenty of challenges along that way that involved mixing up lines. Now that i have the side joinery done I'll cut the panels dry fit and then assemble. I'm thinking with all that needs to be glued that i should use epoxy. I've never used epoxy for joinery so if you have advice please share.

Left Side

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Mess up #1

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Mess up #2

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and mess up #3

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Fixing #1 & #2 I have some 8mm stock left over from the slats i might try and slip in there just so it's all the same walnut color.

#3 was a bad one. Punched all the way through with the domino. There is only 1 fix for this and that was a new part. Thankfully i was doing all this at once so it was as easy as going back to all the set up machines and the new part took me about 15 min most of that transferring lines and plunging the domino.

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I like 207 epoxy for joints. It's clear, why the heck not, I say. less annoying cleanup if it squeezes out.

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3 hours ago, treeslayer said:

Count me in Nut, i always like seeing your work, even the mistakes, the fixes help me when i make them. nice looking figure on that wood.  

Thanks, I got the fixes made yesterday before i had to leave town. Just used a chisel and some patients sizing them and CA glued it in. The grain match isn't going to be the best but they are small in obscure places so i doubt they will be noticeable.

The place i buy walnut has a lot of really good stock, I'm SUPER happy with them, honestly it's harder to find strait nonfigured stuff than slightly figured.

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16 hours ago, Cliff said:

I like 207 epoxy for joints. It's clear, why the heck not, I say. less annoying cleanup if it squeezes out.

I've used 205 resin for a lot of glue ups and never run out of time. Epoxy also doesn't seem to screw up the look of your finish if you have a bit left in the corner. With that said, I still like to tape off around the joint, below it at the very minimum in case some is pushed out. 

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8 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

I've used 205 resin for a lot of glue ups and never run out of time. Epoxy also doesn't seem to screw up the look of your finish if you have a bit left in the corner. With that said, I still like to tape off around the joint, below it at the very minimum in case some is pushed out. 

I don't run out of time in terms of not having the joint clamped, but I do have my cup start the chemical reaction before I am done and have to do a new batch. Usually when it's stupid hot. 

I think Trip's tips was what got me started using 207. 

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Made it hope with some decent time to spare. The girlfriend is out of town for work so 100% of my free time can be in the shop now, i even skipped a meal to extend it further.

Here are the repairs. Like i thought would happen the color was slightly off i tried to match but the scraps i had were all darker.

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I think i might keep a few species milled to the same thickness as my commonly used dominoes just in case this happens in the future again. I had the side dry assembled and the fixes were far less noticeable than holes and where they will be located will hide them even more.

Compleated the 11.5" resaw for the panels. Loving the resaw king. Picture before planing.

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Cut the panels to size, sanded, and prefinished. Here is the last dry assembly before the real deal. I did like 5 dry assemblies. I used space balls in the groove to keep the panels centered and quiet. I'm getting kind of tired of frame and panel and need to branch out, pun intended.

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That looks really sharp, and is screwing up my eyes in terms of size. In glue up position, it looks about the size of a garden gate. Did you forget to tell us that a few networking devices really means a whole server?

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23 minutes ago, Brendon_t said:

That looks really sharp, and is screwing up my eyes in terms of size. In glue up position, it looks about the size of a garden gate. Did you forget to tell us that a few networking devices really means a whole server?

Maybe a hobbit garden gate. I guess that'd be about the right size for me, i'm probably the same height as cremona.

Huh must have the scale right or wrong. That's a 24" ruler and the table is only 24" wide.It's going to be 23 x 30 x 30 and I'll only use the top 8" for the networking stuff the bottom drawers will be cable and computer storage.

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13 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Like i thought would happen the color was slightly off i tried to match but the scraps i had were all darker.

One thing I noticed, for me anyway , is that when you start getting the finish on a fix like this it seems to blend in a little more then when the wood is bare and like you said they are in somewhat obscure spots.  Something like that under normal room lighting can even end up looking like a shadow line.

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Look at a core box bit. Put one of those in a plunge router or a drill press and making a board like that would mostly be layout work. 

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9 hours ago, pkinneb said:

You do really nice work Chestnut!! I have to ask on the game board what is a "semicircle router bit?"

 

Thanks. What steve said. I don't quite understand the name but that doesn't mean much there are a lot of things i don't understand.

8 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Look at a core box bit. Put one of those in a plunge router or a drill press and making a board like that would mostly be layout work. 

I made 2 MDF templates 1 for each spoke or side and then just used an awl to copy that 6 times around a hexagon. There is nothing more boring than drilling 157 holes in a piece of mdf though. So i broke it up into groups and did it between glue ups or other things.

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