Chestnut

The Nut House V2

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Getting back on topic :D... a plumber once told me that a hot water tank needs to be exercised for longevity. He said that two old people who don't use the shower or wash clothes much and eat lots of tv dinners will fail faster than young folk who rock the hot water heater.

You guys smell anything???????

 

-Ace-

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5 minutes ago, AceHoleInOne said:

Getting back on topic :D... a plumber once told me that a hot water tank needs to be exercised for longevity. He said that two old people who don't use the shower or wash clothes much and eat lots of tv dinners will fail faster than young folk who rock the hot water heater.

You guys smell anything???????

 

-Ace-

No idea why but this is what comes to mind.

I just ate a grapefruit so it smells pretty good here.

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16 minutes ago, AceHoleInOne said:

Getting back on topic :D... a plumber once told me that a hot water tank needs to be exercised for longevity. He said that two old people who don't use the shower or wash clothes much and eat lots of tv dinners will fail faster than young folk who rock the hot water heater.

Flow can scour. Any crud can fall out when left to sit. 

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6 hours ago, C Shaffer said:

but could have spelled ruin for many projects. 

And anything near by made of cast iron.

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On 11/30/2017 at 2:51 PM, Chestnut said:

I used 8 10' 6 IN SDR35 sewer pipes. Total from Menards was $198 Cost from a rough search for the DFW area would be closer to $280 I could only find the pipe special order through lowes.

3 6X6X6 Wye fittings at $17 total $51

1 6X6X4 Wye fitting $14

9 6" 45 degree bends $7 each total $63

3 4" 45 degree bends $2 each total $6

1 10' 4" SDR35 pipe $11

Lee Valle 4" blast gates $13 each I bought 6 to cover future tool expansion $79

Tube of silicon Sealant used 1 full one. ~$5

1 roll of foil tape $12

2 rolls of pipe strap $6

2 Pureleaf Iced teas for refreshment after frustrating pipe fittings being different sizes $3

Total: $448 + 7.5% tax = $481.6

Roughly the same in metal from Oneida in 26ga Snaplock standard would be $852 + $100 shipping (guess) = $952 So i saved roughly 50%

The knowledge that Schedule 40 and SDR 35 pipe and fittings are NOT the same size. A very very large amount of frustration.

For those that are curious the Oneida 3hp Pro Unit with remote, 35gal bin, stand, a reducer for the inlet, and $99 shipping was $2,610

 

I know I'm late to the party on this thread, wondered if I could drop a questions on you. How tall is your DC? I'd say at best this is a 2019 purchase for me, but never hurts to get info early.

Your shop is looking great though.

Edited by Cliff

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30 minutes ago, Cliff said:

I know I'm late to the party on this thread, wondered if I could drop a questions on you. How tall is your DC? I'd say at best this is a 2019 purchase for me, but never hurts to get info early.

Your shop is looking great though.

If ya haven't bought a DC yet your not late to the party. It's 94.5 but i think spec is for 1" above the motor for air flow. I know for a fact that the motor gets warm on it. I'm pretty sure they intended it to fit under 8 foot ceilings.

Thanks i need to do something with the endless block grey walls some day.

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

If ya haven't bought a DC yet your not late to the party. It's 94.5 but i think spec is for 1" above the motor for air flow. I know for a fact that the motor gets warm on it. I'm pretty sure they intended it to fit under 8 foot ceilings.

Thanks i need to do something with the endless block grey walls some day.

Oh I meant late to this thread, somehow i only saw it today. I'm running HF dust collector at the moment, it will due for the time being. 

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I'm at the point where i need to cut the slots in my morris chair project. Going to do that at the router table so i figured i should finally duct in my router table. I got the drop installed and cleaned up the area a little bit. I still have random lumber everywhere. but i don't think that'll ever change.

After i got it hooked up and running i tossed some 1/2" cubes at the pipe to see what happened. It could lift the cube from about 1"-2" away. So of course like a mature adult i found a bunch of scraps and sent the down the line. I had to show my girlfriend and i think i found something in the shop that entertained her. She scrounged around and found some scraps to suck up. I then saw her eyeing the DC remote with a malicious smile on her face, so game over.

I need to make a couple brackets to attach the pipe to the wall. Currently it's fairly rigid but I'd like to secure it so when i open and close blast gates i don't weaken the seal at joints.

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5a561424801d0_MorrisChair039Share.thumb.jpg.141e1347c352b018e83dffaac41de29c.jpg

I have a Supermax 16-32 on order from woodcraft it should be in later this week or next week. I'll have some more shop projects getting that set up and I'll have to modify the collection system by my planer eventually.

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Looks like you are heading in the right direction ! They make sections of steel wire with points on the ends to support insulation between joists. But if I had scraps and a nail gun and lived far from a quick retail source for the wires that's exactly what I would have done.

I had some success with an exterior weatherstrip sweep w 3 flaps over a realitivly flat carpet , but I was just focused on wind not noise. 

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Just now, wdwerker said:

Looks like you are heading in the right direction ! They make sections of steel wire with points on the ends to support insulation between joists. But if I had scraps and a nail gun and lived far from a quick retail source for the wires that's exactly what I would have done.

I had some success with an exterior weatherstrip sweep w 3 flaps over a realitivly flat carpet , but I was just focused on wind not noise. 

That's a good idea and i might switch to that if i think this looks tacky. I might end up stapling sheets to the ceiling to make everything look better. I have a good source for hospital sheets that never see use. Though i don't spend any time at all looking up and when i do i just get blinded by lights. I have to turn them off to do this work because staring up is just plain painful.

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14 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I have a good source for hospital sheets that never see use.

That's good. I'd hate to see you use sheets that were removed after a Code Brown went down.

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6 minutes ago, ClassAct said:

That's good. I'd hate to see you use sheets that were removed after a Code Brown went down.

In a hospital better that then a code red.

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Perhaps I'm off track here - so sorry if I am...

If you're looking for sound proofing at a reasonable cost (spelled "cheap") there are several things you can do on the cheap that i used to do in my younger musician days...

  • Egg cartons - not the foam ones you get now, but the ones that are flat and hold 2 dozen eggs - make great sound proofing.  I used to put dozens of these on the walls of the garages I used to rehearse in.
  • Carpeting - you can get free carpet from carpet stores  - none of it will match but who cares - put it on the walls and deaden the air within the room and keep the sound from traveling out. I can't tell you how many times I've done this over the years - in fact many low end recording studios use this technique today to sound proof their sound rooms!
  • Foam sound proofing - the most expensive of all options - works very well and is 100% sound proof - but costs quite a bit.

If I'm off subject sorry but that's kinda what I got from your post :(

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Got the demin insulation installed and it made a somewhat noticeable different. The music from the shop defiantly doesn't make it out of the shop as well which was probably the biggest complaint. "Your taste in music is terrible, I can't understand what they are saying". The dust collector is about as loud as the furnace running. My planer is still very distinct but i kinda of figured there isn't much of a way to fix that. Overall i'm happy with the outcome. There are a couple other places i could stick some insulation to make things butter but i ran out. I'm also kicking around boxing off the air ducts but the heat off of them is my main heat source in the basement so i don't know i want to loose that.

The sander still hasn't arrived so i built a storage shelf for the bench and made a media station.

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I have to run wires for the speakers and what not but I'm glad to finally have gotten my laptop off my work bench. That was really annoying. Worst part about doing this was i had to unstack my lumber and the shift the rack down about 3 feet. I attached the vertical pieces to the joists and then used 1 concrete anchor on the bottom just to stop the bottom from pulling away from the wall.

I didn't take a picture of the workbench shelf.

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1 hour ago, I B said:

 

Metal?

I don't know what they are calling it these days. One of my favorite bands is August Burns Red, also really like Eluveitie, Amon Amarth ect.

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Hey Drew, have you ever taken any kind of decibel reading on your new DC versus the old one.  I would like to up grade mine some day but any wall that I can put it against is opposite an interior wall so I am concerned with the increase in noise.

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1 minute ago, Chet said:

Hey Drew, have you ever taken any kind of decibel reading on your new DC versus the old one.  I would like to up grade mine some day but any wall that I can put it against is opposite an interior wall so I am concerned with the increase in noise.

I did with my phone and an ap i downloaded but i'd hardly call it accurate. I took reading through the floor directly above both units the HF was 55 DB the oneida was 52 db. In the shop the meter reads around 68db standing a good 10 feet away. It's also hard to quantify because most of the noise is port noise. Moving 400 CFM through a 4" port is a lot quieter than moving 800 cfm through a 4" port. Just the DC it's self is probably quieter. If it's not quieter it's a lower pitch so it's a lot less of a nuisance. I have ran it with out hearing protection, something I'd never do with the HF DC.

I wan tot say i saw somewhere some rigid noise isolation material in the 1" thick department you could put that between the DC and the interior wall and make a half box to reflect the noise into the shop and deaden some of it. I looked back and your shop reog thread and can't help but asking do you have the space for a bigger DC?

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There are some things I can do to make it work, but that is what would cause it to end up on an interior wall.  right now were it sets, the other side of that wall is the outside of my garage and front porch area.   This is defiantly down the road thinking, when the one I have ceases to do an adequate job.  The company that make the one I have no longer does anything like this and when the filter isn't working properly I won't do anything to try and extend the life of this machine.

Not this coming summer but the year after that I think I want to rent one of those PODS storage units, drop it in the driveway,  put all my tools in there and start from the ground up with things like T-111 on the walls, paint all of the walls a light color and maybe the garage floor epoxy stuff.  I would also get rid of the hodge podge of cabinets and do something more organized which would free up some space.   This is probably when I would outfit it with a new DC.

I would like to go with something from Onida or Clearview but if I still had a space problem I have also looked at the squaty units that Laguna is making but that would be my last choice.

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2 minutes ago, Chet said:

There are some things I can do to make it work, but that is what would cause it to end up on an interior wall.  right now were it sets, the other side of that wall is the outside of my garage and front porch area.   This is defiantly down the road thinking, when the one I have ceases to do an adequate job.  The company that make the one I have no longer does anything like this and when the filter isn't working properly I won't do anything to try and extend the life of this machine.

Not this coming summer but the year after that I think I want to rent one of those PODS storage units, drop it in the driveway,  put all my tools in there and start from the ground up with things like T-111 on the walls, paint all of the walls a light color and maybe the garage floor epoxy stuff.  I would also get rid of the hodge podge of cabinets and do something more organized which would free up some space.   This is probably when I would outfit it with a new DC.

I would like to go with something from Onida or Clearview but if I still had a space problem I have also looked at the squaty units that Laguna is making but that would be my last choice.

My oneida unit is designed to work with 8' ceilings. You can't be that much shorter than that are you? After watching Cremona's vid on the Laguna i seriously wonder how long those filters are going to last they seem to get really loaded up. Not saying they are bad units it just leaves me questioning.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

After watching Cremona's vid on the Laguna i seriously wonder how long those filters are going to last

Like I said, my last choice

In a perfect situation I would like to have the DC buy my garage door but because of the door tracks, that is only seven feet high.  I still have a fair amount of time to research this more.

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36 minutes ago, Chet said:

Like I said, my last choice

In a perfect situation I would like to have the DC buy my garage door but because of the door tracks, that is only seven feet high.  I still have a fair amount of time to research this more.

Were you planning on redoing the duct work as well? It seemed like most of yours was 4".

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

Were you planning on redoing the duct work as well? It seemed like most of yours was 4".

Yes.  As you know the plastic/PVC/waste line stuff isn't that expensive so I was planning on a re-do.

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