bushwacked

Coffee Table with some metal

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Am I the only one that doesn’t count the hours into a project? My brother, also a woodworker, often asks me how many hours it took me to complete a project. Hell, I don’t know and am scared to think about it. Now, if it were a commission, which I don’t do, it might be a consideration. 

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If I work on a project the minimum is 1/4 hour. Finishing ties up your shop space & you can't work. I usually get a coat on something at the end of the day and let it dry overnight. 

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On December 10, 2017 at 8:01 PM, bushwacked said:

Diablo D0641X 6-1/2 by 40 Finishing Saw Blade 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042U2XFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kGlAbR65RP04

 

Diablo is Freud's contruction grade blades.  I think I would look to see if Freud had a blade similar to that one or check Infinity or Forrest.  You are using your saw on hardwoods so you want something that will stand up to that.

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When my good blades are sent out to be sharpened I have used some Diablo blades. They don't stay sharp long and you don't have much carbide on them. They have got me buy when cash is tight but I also think you would be better off with something different if you can,

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5 hours ago, wdwerker said:

+1 - I know it is sacrilege but I bought a few freud industrial blades for my festool tracksaw. I could get almost 2 for the cost of 1 new festool blade. I find the freud industrial (NOT diablo)  blades to be great blades at a great price. I have a 10" Hi ATB one for my SS and it is great also.

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I use Freud blades in my table saw and miter saw and really like them. I have a Forrest WWII as well and can't really tell the difference other than the freud are a bit quieter. I haven't looked too had but the curse of the TS75 is that baldes are a bit harder to find if they exist.

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9 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Thanks Steve!! It says it’s for ripping. So do I need to find another one for crosscuts? 

https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/plunge-cutting-track-saws/track-master-saw-blades

how would that one be? Are they about the same quality just the infinity would still give me max cut on the track saw? 

I am still using the factory makita blade so I am not too worried about replacing it or trying to get it sharpened. I’m sure it wasn’t meant to last me as long as I’ve used it. I’ll clean it and see if that helps. But it’s lived a good life and just might be time. 

12 hours ago, K Cooper said:

Am I the only one that doesn’t count the hours into a project? My brother, also a woodworker, often asks me how many hours it took me to complete a project. Hell, I don’t know and am scared to think about it. Now, if it were a commission, which I don’t do, it might be a consideration. 

Haha. I count hours just to give myself an idea of what things take. Then I can see if efficiency is improving or not while I’m getting more skilled (hopefully) Plus if I ever do serious commission work it will help me there have a decent idea of what things take. This is just going to my mom so it’s not a huge deal. 

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Look at the related Freud blades. There is a Ultimate Plywood & Melamine blade that will also give wonderful crosscuts on wood too. It is a "Hi ATB " blade ( Alternate Top Bevel ) This type of blade really needs to be kept clean, the relatively long points suffer if resin is allowed to build up. This tooth grind pattern gives pretty good cuts on the bottom of crosscut plywood & melamine and beautiful cuts on top. But remember when using your track saw that you want to put the best face downward and use a clean anti splinter strip for the best results.

The Infinity blade is similar tooth design 165 mm for Makita according to their website. It doesn't have the coating but might have thicker carbide. Watch out for resin build up around the teeth, that can lead to a greater tendency to burn. The coating reduces that buildup and makes it easier to clean too.  I always meticulously blow my blades dry w compressed air after cleaning.

 I also use Bostik Bladecote, just a quick spray on blades and bits after cleaning & drying. Helps prevent resin build up and makes it easier to clean . It's something similar to Teflon I think. Glidecoat is their product to keep surfaces sliding smoothly. I use it on router bases, tablesaw, track-saw & track, router table , fences anything you rub wood against. When you are running a router all day trimming hundreds of laminate pieces anything to make it slide smoothly is crucial. Plus it's far faster to apply & re-apply than paste wax ( and I think it's slicker ) 

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3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

can't really tell the difference other than the freud are a bit quieter.

And red :)

All my blades with the exception of my track saw because it is still pretty new, are Freud and I am real happy with them.

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