Cutting/Planing Particle board

[Immortan D]

I don't mean Don LOL

A coworker received a free wardrobe. Problem is it's too tall. He brought the thing to a couple of woodworkers, they refused to trim it down. They said no way because there might be hidden nails.

The wardrobe is made of particleboard, with veneer. I have yet to see what he's talking about, but apparently the thing is huge.

So he asked for my help. I don't think my jobsite tablesaw is an option here, so I think I have to possible solutions:

1) Circular saw with 60 tooth blade. I'm not sure what could happen if I hit a nail with this one. I don't want to go through unnecessary risks.

2) Jigsaw next to line. Then plane it somehow. I don't think my hand planes would work on particle board, right? He told me he could get one of those handheld power planers, will that work?

Honestly I'm at a loss here, any help would be appreciated.

[Chestnut]

I've used my circular saw to break down unsavory material for burning. I've hit all sorts of things with the blade, nails screws ect. goes strait through. If you go the circular saw route get a throw away blade to do it. I'd rather risk damage on a $7 circular saw blade than any of my hand plane blades. A hand plane will probably cut it but at what risk and what cost. I don't know the full details but it seems that some trim will be needed after it's cut to size.

Oh make sure to wear proper PPE.

[Coop]

There are reasons others turned him down. I don't see this ending in a good relationship with your co-worker.

[..Kev]

I've done this before with a circular saw without issue.  Small nails aren't a big deal just watch for anything bigger.   It is going to be rough on the veneer at the cut line.  Blue tape will help but, won't be perfect.

[Immortan D]

Thanks all. The wardrobe will get the circular saw treatment on Friday next week.

[pkinneb]

I think you have decided the best choice would be a circular saw and that's what I would do as well. FYI power planers work well but they can be hard to control and on particle board I think it would be even worse and as you state I would not use my hand tools on it, well except maybe a sanding block

[Immortan D]

5 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

I think you have decided the best choice would be a circular saw and that's what I would do as well. FYI power planers work well but they can be hard to control and on particle board I think it would be even worse and as you state I would not use my hand tools on it, well except maybe a sanding block

I still have and maintain my first set of planes, the cheapest Stanley planes money can buy. I will bring them to the "job" and see how they behave on PB. If the veneer gets really bad on a test cut I will have to improvise (or give up LOL).

[drzaius]

Being that you'll be cutting with the good side up, it would be a good idea to score the cut line with a knife as well as using blue tape. If you use a plane, then bring your stones as well because PB will dull the iron pronto. How good are you with a belt sander? That's what I'd try.

[Tom King]

I'm allergic to particleboard, as are my tools.  I don't have any kind of medical symptoms.  It just makes me really angry.

[drzaius]

15 minutes ago, Tom King said:

I'm allergic to particleboard, as are my tools.  I don't have any kind of medical symptoms.  It just makes me really angry.

That & MDF for me.

[Immortan D]

26 minutes ago, drzaius said:

Being that you'll be cutting with the good side up, it would be a good idea to score the cut line with a knife as well as using blue tape. If you use a plane, then bring your stones as well because PB will dull the iron pronto. How good are you with a belt sander? That's what I'd try.

Having messed up things a couple of times, I'm now pretty darn good at the belt sander. Will add it to the toolbox as last resource... I don't want to be near the toxic cloud it will raise with no dust collection. 

[Keggers]

I believe if you're cutting the piece with a circular saw the good side should be down. Good side up if cutting on a table saw.

 

Also note that a circular saw cuts on the upstroke, which often splinters the top edge (veneer) slightly. The bottom edge usually remains splinter-free. So always cut plywood with the good side down.

[Immortan D]

I found this unused blade in my stash:

Looks like the perfect candidate for the job.

[wdwerker]

If you set up a good straightedge and score the veneer then put the saw kerf just past the score line and use blue tape as well it will go better. Belt sander is the tool I would used to clean up the cut. I keep a ball shaped magnet with me at all times to check for nails. If you have a stack of disc shaped magnets 2 or 3 of them will work, just slide the magnets along the area to be cut and they will pull to any metal.

[pd711]

13 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

 Belt sander is the tool I would used to clean up the cut.

+1  Belt Sander will work the best.

I wouldn't worry too much about hitting a nail or any other debris in the particle board. The chances of something being embedded in there are slim to none. In 30 years of working with particleboard I only hit a piece of metal once. It was a 7/16 wrench that got pressed into the core of the board. Sparks flew and destroyed the blade....... and my underwear.

[wtnhighlander]

There aren't likely to be any nails bigger than 20 ga. pins in particleboard, as real nails split it horribly. A circular saw won't notice the pins.

Screws are another matter, but hopefully those wouldn't be concealed.

If hitting metal is still a worry, you could use the jigsaw to get within 1/8-1/4" of the line, which should reveal any metal. Then use the circ saw and straight edge to clean it up.

[drzaius]

15 hours ago, Keggers said:

I believe if you're cutting the piece with a circular saw the good side should be down. Good side up if cutting on a table saw.

 

Also note that a circular saw cuts on the upstroke, which often splinters the top edge (veneer) slightly. The bottom edge usually remains splinter-free. So always cut plywood with the good side down.

That's correct, but will be hard to do on that already constructed cabinet.

[wdwerker]

I would take the cabinet apart if at all possible. Many of those pieces come flatpacked and assemble with fasteners. 

[Immortan D]

FTR after rescheduling many times, last week I got the wardrobe cut. I took it apart first then proceeded with the circular saw.

- I didn't come across any nails.

- The plywood blade I posted above completely sucked, so I switched to regular blade. I applied masking tape on both sides.  No damage to the veneer whatsoever.

So it was a success! Still waiting for my 25 year old whisky bottle though...

[soonerdg]

I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you but if you do you can get a handheld metal detector for about $16.  You can run that along your cut line to see if there are any nails.

In that type of piece I doubt there will be any nails substantial enough to cause a serious kickback of your circular saw.  But you never know.

[wdwerker]

I use a ball shaped magnet to find nails , screws & any steel in walls, furniture and what IKEA tries to pass off as furniture. It's cordless and doesn't need batteries. 

Take a look at K & J Magnetics . 3/8" or 1/2" dia works well, bigger ones can be annoying.  I had a 3/4" dia ball magnet in my pocket, walked into the parking lot and it stuck me to the door of the truck !  They have lots of information on magnet pull strength and every size and shape magnet you could ever desire.

[Immortan D]

More notes for future reference:

- As suggested, I made the cuts with exterior sides down and the cut was perfect on those sides.

- At the very edge of the interior side of the panels, I was able to see microscopic  "stitches" on the veneer, but no tear out. Nothing that couldn't be fixed with light sanding.

The magnet ball is a great idea, useful thing to have in the toolbox.

Thanks all!