pkinneb

Coffee Table build

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Man your moving so dang fast on this. I feel like i hit a wall on the morris chairs the curved shoulders and through tenons are awfully slow operations for me at least.

10 hours ago, pkinneb said:

t was only 10 degrees again here

The pickup was extra angry last night when i left my friends house and it was -5. Looks like we have 40 on wednesday might it be warming up?

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19 hours ago, drzaius said:

I just love this build. Beautiful wood, great design & execution. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you! Rodel definitely has some nice designs. 

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Thanks Guys!

Not much time tonight but I was able to get the DT's done on the stretchers...unfortunately they didn't get much better really glad they won't be seen. I did use a forstner bit to hog out some of the waste in this set which worked well.

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Then I used the jointer to add a 45 angle on the bottom edges of the stretchers

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All that's left on the stretchers is to pre-drill the holes for the screws to attach the top

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Next up the corbels.

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That shelf looks "marvelous " ! ( I'm hearing Billy Crystal doing an accent, just can't remember the details)

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5 hours ago, RichardA said:

That dry fit really shows of how well you designed this. It's going to be beautiful.

Thanks Richard! To be clear this is a Kevin Rodel design I am just doing my best to copy it well :) 

4 hours ago, wdwerker said:

That shelf looks "marvelous " ! ( I'm hearing Billy Crystal doing an accent, just can't remember the details)

Thanks Steve!

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It just dawned on me, is this the table that was on the cover of FWW a couple of years back?

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1 hour ago, Chet said:

It just dawned on me, is this the table that was on the cover of FWW a couple of years back?

Yes FWW Jan/Feb 2016

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First thing up today was to drill some counter sunk holes in the top supports

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Next up was to lay out the corbels

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Then I cut the tongue along the back side and fit it to the dado with a shoulder plane

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After that I cut out the curves 

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Then grabbed the rasps and sand paper to finish the curves

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I added a slight bevel with a block plane to clean up the edge

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and finally I cut the two corbels to length

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Here are pics of both the left and right corbels you can see why the grain needs to match when looking at them from one side of the table if not it would really stick out. The only thing left is to bevel the bottoms to fit through the shelf mortises once the shelf is glued in.

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That wraps up construction on to final finish prep, glue up, and then on to fuming hopefully Saturday. I will have to make a tent the one I have is not big enough for this table but that won't take but 30 minutes or so.

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Paul, I know this is the table from FWW and you said you are working from plans.  Do you like the plans that FWW puts out?

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Man the corbels are enormous. I like the design how they go through the shelf mortise. This whole design looks like it could be made to flat pack. Put a sliding dovetail on the corbels and it would lock the shelf in place the dovetails on the top stretchers would hold the base together well with the bottom shelf and then attach the top.

Can't wait to see if fumed.

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Chet honestly you could make this project from just the magazine article but for $16 the plans they are nice. I have bought three sets this project, my tool chest, and a tool cabinet ( I haven't made that one yet) but all are nice.

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24 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Chet honestly you could make this project from just the magazine article

Since you started this  have been thinking about using the basic design for a dinning room table but obviously there would need to be some changes, like no bottom self.  I am thinking that the plans may help in thinking through the changes.  $16 is a pretty inexpensive resource.  I have seen plans from other sources that offered more confusion then help.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Man the corbels are enormous. I like the design how they go through the shelf mortise. This whole design looks like it could be made to flat pack. Put a sliding dovetail on the corbels and it would lock the shelf in place the dovetails on the top stretchers would hold the base together well with the bottom shelf and then attach the top.

Can't wait to see if fumed.

LOL once the ends are planed to fit through the shelf mortises and the top is on they won't look so big its just that they are sitting up in this pic. Re: packing flat actually everything is glued shelf to the sides, top supports to the sides, and corbel tongues to the dado's, so the only thing removable will be the top. Looking forward to fuming as well that means this one is almost a wrap. I have a couple small projects to knock out before I start my next build which is a jewelry box for my wife's birthday in late April

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First thing tonight was to cut the bottom of the tongue off so the corbel can slide into the mortise, right is complete left needs to be trimmed 

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I did this on the table saw

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After sanding everything to 220 it was time to glue up the base, still square that's a good sign

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Now I fit the corbels. First laid out the angle at the bottom then I cut them at the bandsaw

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Next I planed the sides so they fit into the mortise and then started to refine the angle to get a good fit using a plane, rasp, and finishing with 180 grit sandpaper

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Then I glued them in

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I just want to mention another tool I found helpful on this build and that is this glue bottle from Lee Valley the small tip gives you great control to get the glue where you want it.

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Tomorrow I will prepare the top for finish and then put together a makeshift tent and get this thing fumed

 

 

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First thing up today was to clean up the edges of the table top. I think this is the first time I have used the sliding deadman on my bench but it really worked out well.

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next I moved on to sanding the top through 220 grit

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Then I eased the top and bottom edges 

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and finally I marked the top attachment holes with an awl

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Next up I made a temp tent to fume with. I just use scraps, plastic, tape and a glue gun. Since its temporary it only needs to stay together for a few hours. this plastic was way overkill but all I had so I used it. The tape is just left over house wrap tape again not needed but what I had on hand. you really just need a sealed cover how ever you get there should be fine.

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Next I got out a dish and the ammonia, I use janitorial ammonia from Ace Hardware, Mike Pekovich at FWW recommended it in an article I read. It's about $3 a bottle and since you poor it back in the bottle when your done should be all I ever need. Its not as toxic as the industrial stuff but still provides the look I am going for. BTW I don't use a mask or gloves for this since I have an exhaust fan running and I never touch the ammonia I do use gloves to move the project under the tent so that i don'y get oils from my  skin on the would not sure it matters but...

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I just use about a 1/2" in the bottom of a dish

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Then everybody goes in the tent and I seal up the bottom of the plastic, I just lay wood on it. I do this in my spray room with the exhaust fan running you do want ventilation but once its under the tent I shut it off and you can't smell it until you open the tent. The worst is when your done the inside of the tent will off gas for a while but the exhaust fan handles it fine.

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...and then you wait. I check samples every two hours and I expect this to take about 4-6 hours.

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It's been longer than 4-6 hours, Paul ! I keep checking back to see if you posted pics of the freshly fumed table . Get a move on !!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, Alan G said:

So exciting!! The anticipation is killing me!

 

3 hours ago, shaneymack said:

It's been longer than 4-6 hours, Paul ! I keep checking back to see if you posted pics of the freshly fumed table . Get a move on !!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

Sorry guys I should have been more clear it will probably be tomorrow before I post those pics because I want to show the three pics in series so the changes can be seen clearly from just wood, to fumed wood, to fumed and garnet shellac wood :o 

3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I am envious of the spray booth.

Probably an over statement on my part to call it a spray booth as it doesn't have an explosion proof fan but it's a 9 x 12 space with a high CFM exhaust fan and filtered return to allow air to come in from the shop with out the dust. I spray small oil based products, all water based spraying, and all wipe on products,  large oil based products still get sprayed outside.

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So I needed to mix up a 1 1/2 lb cut of garnet shellac this morning, I use Liberon flakes. First I measure out the flakes

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Then I use a (dedicated) coffee bean grinder to grind the flakes up, this helps to dissolve them quicker

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Then mix with denatured alcohol

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I always date the jar and put the cut on it as well. I usually try to use them it within 90-120 days. I store the flakes inside two plastic ziplock bags to keep them fresh. if you look at the bottom (left side) you can see the sludge until that's dissolved it shouldn't be used,  you need to mix the jar a few times throughout the process.

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As always the denatured alcohol should be treated like a finish no balled up rags etc.

 

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