Daughter's bookshelf with drawers


SawDustB

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Thanks Steve. This is going to be a natural finish. I'm not painting the hardwood parts, just possibly the plywood back. The drawers will have false fronts on them out of birch to hide the plywood. The idea is that the sides and shelves will be natural finish to match other birch furniture in the room.

My method for edge jointing is with a table saw jig, since I've found that's the quickest method for me. I'll give the edges a pass with a hand plane before the glue up.

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I'm finally getting out of the milling stage of this project and into the panel glue ups. I'm starting with the sides, since I can really only do one at a time, and then I'll move on to the shelves. I was able to take a couple of passes with a plane to clean up the edge from the table saw and joint them perfectly. The humidity has gone from extremely low to really high in the last few days, so my nicely jointed side had moved a little (1/8" over 5'). I used dowels to align my glue up. I expect this will take a few days, since I'm going to do all my gluing before I get into joinery.

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I'm finally done gluing panels, at least for now. I've got the sides and shelves, but I haven't figured out my drawer fronts yet. I've ripped everything to near final width, and I'm debating if I should put them through the planer again to clean up the ridge.

I'm looking forward to getting into the joinery section of this project.

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I've finally got my pieces at final dimension. I'm now thinking about cutting the dovetails for the top. It seems like the tails are normally on the top, and the pins on the sides. It seems to me that it makes more sense to have half tails in this joint. I've got a half tail on the front of 1", and a half tail on the back of 1 1/2". This makes the pin board symmetric, since there's a half inch overhang at the back.

The overall size is 13". I've got 5 pins in the joint. I've made the pins a bit larger than you often see in hand cut joints, partly to make it stronger and partly to make it easier. Does this layout make sense?

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12 minutes ago, Chet said:

It's coming along, Brian.  One question, this is for your daughter, why aren't you using her work bench? :D

Well, there is the small matter of it only coming up to my knee... I don't think that sawing posture will help the dovetails any ;). She did get annoyed with me for stacking boards on her work bench as I was putting them through the planer.

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Hey Brian, the project is coming along nicely! 

Is that your top or the side of the case? Normally you would put the tails on the top. The dovetail isnt really doing its job mechanically if the tail is on the side of a case because it can pull away. When the tails are on top and bottom they are locked in. 

I dont see anything wrong with your layout. Personally, i like the base of the pins narrower but that is just preference. 

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8 hours ago, shaneymack said:

Hey Brian, the project is coming along nicely! 

Is that your top or the side of the case? Normally you would put the tails on the top. The dovetail isnt really doing its job mechanically if the tail is on the side of a case because it can pull away. When the tails are on top and bottom they are locked in. 

I dont see anything wrong with your layout. Personally, i like the base of the pins narrower but that is just preference. 

Cool, thanks Shane. That's the top that I have in the picture with the tails. I figured that was the right logic. I haven't done any casework with dovetails, so I thought I should ask. Is The right approach here to do half tails? That seemed right to me, so the top is supported all the way across.

I probably could make the pins about 1/8" narrower... I'll look at it again. I want to make this as easy as I can, since I don't have much practice.

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3 hours ago, SawDustB said:

Cool, thanks Shane. That's the top that I have in the picture with the tails. I figured that was the right logic. I haven't done any casework with dovetails, so I thought I should ask. Is The right approach here to do half tails? That seemed right to me, so the top is supported all the way across.

I probably could make the pins about 1/8" narrower... I'll look at it again. I want to make this as easy as I can, since I don't have much practice.

I would still stick with half pins. I would do a half tail at the back if you have a rabbeted back. You need the meat there when you rabbet, if not, half pin. 

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20 hours ago, shaneymack said:

I would still stick with half pins. I would do a half tail at the back if you have a rabbeted back. You need the meat there when you rabbet, if not, half pin. 

Ok, good to know. The top overhangs the back by 1/2", so I think it has to be a half tail there, but I could do a half pin on the front. It sounds like I may be redoing the layout.

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On 1/22/2018 at 7:51 AM, Chestnut said:

I don't' know any thing about hand cut dovetails to tell you if the layout is good or not. Are there any goo free articles on them out there. I'd like to learn.

They're all over you tube, and they all help. But practice is the only answer.

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Practice sliding dovetails a few times before you attempt it on the bookcase. Sliding are tricky enough, consider tapered to be an advanced class. If you have a dovetail plane and some serious plane use and sharpening skills then practice the sliding tapered dovetails before you plan to use them in a project. 

Last time I tried tapered sliding dovetails it wedged too soon, tried to trim it and it was way too loose. All were cut w just a router & a router table. Both were using identical bits so I didn't have to keep swapping bits. (Tip ! Plane scrap to the identical thickness as the project , use that to get set up )

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3 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Practice sliding dovetails a few times before you attempt it on the bookcase. Sliding are tricky enough, consider tapered to be an advanced class. If you have a dovetail plane and some serious plane use and sharpening skills then practice the sliding tapered dovetails before you plan to use them in a project. 

Last time I tried tapered sliding dovetails it wedged too soon, tried to trim it and it was way too loose. All were cut w just a router & a router table. Both were using identical bits so I didn't have to keep swapping bits. (Tip ! Plane scrap to the identical thickness as the project , use that to get set up )

Thanks Steve. I asked about the tapered sliding dovetail because it was recommended in a fine woodworking article. I'll be cutting it with the router and router table, not by hand. Sounds like straight is the way to go.

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