Chestnut

Morris Chair Pair

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3 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

That guide does look good, .Does it work well & adjust easily? 

Yeah adjusts awesome. Has holes for mounting aux fences on it if the stock metal is too small. My favorite part is it comes with a pin to do circles from 5" all the way out to like 30" in diameter

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3 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I never thought about 2 edge guides that's a good idea. I can only install 1 though. :(

  Its not necessarily a router that can have two edge guides mounted at the same time.  It a matter of taking the second edge guide off of their bars and mounting them to the other side of the bars that are in the router.

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40 minutes ago, Chet said:

  Its not necessarily a router that can have two edge guides mounted at the same time.  It a matter of taking the second edge guide off of their bars and mounting them to the other side of the bars that are in the router.

 

The bars don't go all the way through the base like that though.

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Been working on this as much as i can lately. I got all the mortises done on the chairs and stool legs. I have my test leg that I'll use for making the tenon and testing the taper in the future so if you see one leg that just looks wrong that's my tester.

I feel like i'm one of the few that uses Porter Cable routers but i have to throw out there that i love mine. I had my CT vac hooked up and this was the most enjoyable routing experience i've had in a while. Normally it's so messy that it's just miserable. Below are some better pictures of the edge guide as well. I want to do the plexi base that was talked about previously but i don't have the material yet.

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Ran some test tenons with the dado stack. Cleaned up the faces with my LN 140 skew block i bought specifically for tenon cheeks. There isn't much to say except i wish i had the LN140 a while ago. It's my first bronze plane as well as my first LN plane.

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Yes my test piece is QS white oak. :ph34r:

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Acrylic works better than polycarbonate. See is there is a shop that fabricates things like Acrylic covers they use in displays and museums. You might get scrap cheap or free. The masking paper gets real difficult to remove from the old sheets. If you drench it in mineral spirits and use a plastic windshield scraper it does come off. Might be a few scuffs but that's no problem for a router base.

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Got the tenons cut for the stool. Everything went smoothly. I haven't touch the big tenons on the chair yet but i imagine that those are going to be the same as the small one except maybe a bit easier to clean the faces. There was a lot of time spent at my new face vice and i'm surprised at how well the 2 pipe clamp vise works. I did the rounding mostly with a chisel. Pulled up a chair and put on some entertainment on the laptop. Made the whole thing somewhat enjoyable.

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Got booth stools done.

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I need to route the slot for the slats. I wanted a new slot cutter beings that the one i have currently is set up for the thickness i get off of a re saw and i don't want to mess with it. My current one also doesn't go thin enough for undersized plywood. Ordered a new one from acme tools and it was at my door step in 20 hours. Faster than i could have made it to the store.

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Have you decided what type of upholstery you are going to use?  Are you going to do it yourself? 

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40 minutes ago, Chet said:

Have you decided what type of upholstery you are going to use?  Are you going to do it yourself? 

We decided upon leather. With these chairs being robust and in my opinion timeless we'll keep them around a long time so the investment in genuine leather is worth it. I will not be doing them myself and after i get the chairs finished I'll seek out someone to do the upholstery. I am curious what their reactions are going to be though. Most of the places I've found seem to deal with reupholstery doing it from scratch might be more difficult?

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26 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Most of the places I've found seem to deal with reupholstery doing it from scratch might be more difficult?

I have been searching this out also.  In the end I don't think it will be a problem, once they see the finished chair.  Basically you will be asking them to make three cushions.  It's not like they will have to install any under lying stuff like springs or anything.  One thing that I had heard was to avoid shops that listed automotive and marine upholstery, especially if it was listed at the top of things they work on.

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8 minutes ago, Chet said:

I have been searching this out also.  In the end I don't think it will be a problem, once they see the finished chair.  Basically you will be asking them to make three cushions.  It's not like they will have to install any under lying stuff like springs or anything.  One thing that I had heard was to avoid shops that listed automotive and marine upholstery, especially if it was listed at the top of things they work on.

I agree, i'm mostly going to go after the antique style reupholstery services. I figure they have the most experience working on this style of stuff it's just a tad bit different. Material selection and what they will work with or can get supplied concerns me though. I"m worried that they won't have what i want or won't be willing to branch out to a new supplier if what they are familiar with doesn't offer what i'd like.

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So qualifying them starts with what leather samples do you have and are your vendors likely to have it in stock. I bet certain brands/styles could have longer lead times.  You might do some research into grades of leather. Flawless is expensive. Figure out what you and your lovely lady are expecting. I think a few random flaws in the hide gives a better impression that it's real leather, not some cheaper imitation stuff.  And if they get daily use once a little wear is showing that's when that comfy lived in appearance develops.

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4 hours ago, Chestnut said:

I agree, i'm mostly going to go after the antique style reupholstery services. I figure they have the most experience working on this style of stuff it's just a tad bit different. Material selection and what they will work with or can get supplied concerns me though. I"m worried that they won't have what i want or won't be willing to branch out to a new supplier if what they are familiar with doesn't offer what i'd like.

Really nice progress, looking great!  As far as upholstery and sewing goes this is a relatively simple project the best way to get what you want is to find as many pics as you can and share them while getting bids. Also, just so you know, we have a great upholstery supply company in Brooklyn park (Rochford Supply) where you may be able to get samples of leather colors etc the more info you have going in the better. I have been buying materials from them for a couple years.

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#(*%)(@ Everything was going great cut the tenon on the bottom of the last front leg!@

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I don't have a wood stove so this was my option.

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On 1/10/2018 at 12:59 PM, Chestnut said:

We decided upon leather. With these chairs being robust and in my opinion timeless we'll keep them around a long time so the investment in genuine leather is worth it. I will not be doing them myself and after i get the chairs finished I'll seek out someone to do the upholstery. I am curious what their reactions are going to be though. Most of the places I've found seem to deal with reupholstery doing it from scratch might be more difficult?

Talk with someone that does automobile upholstery, they usually know where to find the right person to fill your need.

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Finding someone that knows how to do real leather would be the biggest challenge in my area. I have family that used to own a furniture upholstery business, but even they never did any real leather.

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16 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Finding someone that knows how to do real leather would be the biggest challenge in my area. I have family that used to own a furniture upholstery business, but even they never did any real leather.

I would agree like wood real leather moves (stretches) differently then pleather :) 

Having said that you may want to think about using it as there will be more upkeep than a man made product. Not good or bad just something you should know going in. 

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Fixed my leg issues. Had to make a new one and lucky the grain and color match was excellent. It didn't take me much time i still had most of the tools dialed in. The only issue is the width and thickness might be ever so slightly off, I'll never notice and only a caliper would be able to tell.

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Only iffy thing was the wood ended up having some of this read streaking in it that i didn't see before i cut the blank. I would have avoided it but i couldn't see it from the outside.

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On to the bending form....

I made the initial top and bottom. I did the bottom from the template and then to make sure that they were both identical i used a scribe to offset the top. It made me nervous that the top and bottom arc had the same radius in the sketchup file so i made sure to do it right and proper. Now the 2 arc are direct offsets of each other. This is the 1 time i wish i had a CNC, but never gonna happen no space.

The debate. Can i just just a 10" piece and cut the top and bottom out of the 1 piece with out making a bunch of weird shaped off cuts that are basically firewood. YES! After i made the top and bottom form i set them on the ply and put a good 1/4" between them measured from one side to the other and get 9.25" i rounded that to 9.5" and was able to get  all of the layers i needed for the template from just over a half a sheet of ply. Below is a picture of the two arcs drawn from the top form and bottom form with 1/16" separating them. There was no appreciable difference in the gap from one end to the other. CAD told me the gap if perfectly lined up would only be 0.034" or 1/32"

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Here they are cut apart.

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Bending form is glued. Because i was doing shop stuff i didn't nail and just went all glue. I just didn't' want to have to worry about it. I haven't corked it or sealed it off yet that'll be tomorrow's gig.

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7 hours ago, bleedinblue said:

You're flying through. 

Getting held up by no drum sander. Was supposed to be in early this week but still nothing. Last night i got the finishing touches on the vending form done.

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While i was digging through the lumber rack to move it for some shop stuff i found the piece of cherry I'm going to use for the top lamination of the arms. I figured if there was 1 place to stick some nice wood it would be the top of the arms. I should be able to get a slice for each arm out of this piece and still have some left over. I'm going to embrace the sapwood on it as well. It seems like most of the intense curl is close to the sap wood and i have some sapwood in other parts of the chair so maybe it'll tie together. The color looks dark because these boards have been sitting around a LONG time.

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Still waiting on the drum sander ....

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 Figured cherry with sapwood is a very good look in my opinion.  Drum sanders treat figured wood quite well, but get used to running the sander before you start running the figured stock. Taking very light amounts off on each pass and running slower belt feed rates reduces burns. Clean the abrasive with a crepe rubber block. Cherry pitch pockets can fill the abrasive w resin and cause a burn very fast so check & clean often.

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Got the bending form up and running. I've always had an idea for a shop stool that had bent legs made from thin strips of random species with no matching what so ever. So the best way to try out the form and do my first bent lamination i figured was to use a bunch of scraps and make the legs for the shop stool. I was originally going to make a dedicated form for the stool but i figrued since i have this together why not give it a shot. The down side is because of the fact that i don't branch out to many species it's 50/50 oak and cherry so not as exciting as i thought it would be. Oh well there is always a chance for a 2nd in the future.

I'm using west system 207 for the bent lam because it's what i got.

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