new2woodwrk

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Yikes John, that’s not good, glad you found it and it sounds like the breaker did it’s job, any idea what went wrong?

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1 hour ago, JohnG said:

Well, I found out that my shop tried to burn itself down...

Had an external thermostat on my hanging heater to keep things from freezing. Came out to the shop and the lights wouldn’t turn on. Also noted the smell of burning electronics. Breakers in my subpanel were fine, the breaker in the house tripped. Then saw this. Exterior of the metal box is now black.

 

Whoa glad that wasn't worse!! Better buy a lottery ticket :D 

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5 hours ago, Mark J said:

He meant his hands aren't ugly.  :)

I tried to be obscure.....apparently it worked :)

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I’m glad the metal box contained it, too. I’m not sure what caused the tstat to fail, but I certainly won’t be buying the same type to replace it. It was never accurate, always 5-10 degrees off, but was somewhat  consistent. It had been working fine for about 6 months. 

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1 minute ago, Gary Beasley said:

Apparently it wasnt rated for the current going through it. Be sure and check for failures in the heater circuits too.

It certainly is advertised as being rated for it. It is a dedicated line straight to the heater. Wiring is fine along the run and connections on heater end are tight and good. 

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

YIKES! Good thing that breaker did it's job. That's awfully scary.

Interestingly, the 30A breaker in the garage did not trip, but the 60A breaker that supplies the garage from the house tripped. Nothing else would have been on in the garage, except maybe for a cordless tool battery charger.

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I never understood exactly why, but when there is a short circuit in a circuit protected by two breakers, you don't know which breaker will trip first, regardless of the ratings of the breakers.  I didn't say it has to make sense.  It's just the way it works.  One of them did their job, so things will probably go back to normal, once the fried parts are replaced.

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20 minutes ago, Tpt life said:

There are slow and quick breaks. The 30 can run a device that peaks higher at startup if it is the slow blow variety. The 60 is typically always a fast blow. 

Good info. One more interesting bit- theres a 60a breaker as the main in the sub panel, which is identical to the 60a breaker in the house. Who knows why the one in the house blew before the 60a in the garage. I can get by doing electrical work, but am buy no means an expert and I loathe tracking down electrical gremlins. 
 

At any rate, the fried tstat is in the garbage and I’m back to using the built-in tstat and unplugging the heater when not in use. I think we are past all the freezing weather so I’ll just run the heater when I’m going to be working in the shop.

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1 hour ago, JohnG said:

Good info. One more interesting bit- theres a 60a breaker as the main in the sub panel, which is identical to the 60a breaker in the house. Who knows why the one in the house blew before the 60a in the garage. I can get by doing electrical work, but am buy no means an expert and I loathe tracking down electrical gremlins.

I'm gonna guess it has to do with the length of the wire run. Those electrons will take the path of least resistance, and the longest run is the most resistance. So my WAG is it decided that long run is less fun, so it stopped right there like an old man out of breath :)

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13 hours ago, JohnG said:

It certainly is advertised as being rated for it. It is a dedicated line straight to the heater. Wiring is fine along the run and connections on heater end are tight and good. 

It may have been getting more current than the rated figure for some reason, therefor the reason for checking how it was wired to the heater. You dont want a repeat performance if you hook another controller back up the same way. It pays to be leery about electrical connections, especially around heaters.

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There might be a turning blank or two in the limb pieces over to the right.  If you wan, pick a couple and split them down the pith.  

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52 minutes ago, Mark J said:

There might be a turning blank or two in the limb pieces over to the right.  If you wan, pick a couple and split them down the pith.  

There was a burlish chunk that was a scar over top of a branch wound. I might try and turn that down but at this point i have a few too many irons in the fire.

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Nice job @Chestnut with that chainsaw mill. It's a great and productive way to do social distancing and to get a good workout in at the same time!

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I don't get the TP thing either. We're about due to buy some more so we'll snag it whenever it's available. We have cash on hand and normally stock enough food probably for 2 weeks. Kids will run out of milk but they'll have to survive on water if we do get quarantined. We're keeping the cars gassed up in case people freak out about that next. I'll be filling the extra propane tank this week too.

 

@Chestnut How much did the whole mill set you back and if you had big enough trees would you try to mill the Roubo bench as 1 slab for each side? I imagine it would require a lot of waste to get it to get a usable 4" thick final piece.

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38 minutes ago, legenddc said:

@Chestnut How much did the whole mill set you back and if you had big enough trees would you try to mill the Roubo bench as 1 slab for each side? I imagine it would require a lot of waste to get it to get a usable 4" thick final piece.

MS661C-M with a 25" bar (if buying just for milling get at least a 28 or 32" bar) 2 chains and sharpener was $1,461. 30" granberg mill was $220 after tax and shipping. You could get it for a bit less if you did ship to store through northern tool but I didn't want to wait. 1 gal of non-ethanol premium $2.78. 1 bottle Stihl HP synthetic mix oil $2. 1 gallon of bar oil $16.

1 hour ago, Bmac said:

Nice job @Chestnut with that chainsaw mill. It's a great and productive way to do social distancing and to get a good workout in at the same time!

I knew it was going to create a lot of sawdust but i wasn't quite prepared. I ended up filling a 35 gallon trash can 7 times over the 5 logs. In the future I'm going to do this on my driveway all of this sawdust in my grass is goign to kill it. I'll have to get some nitrogen fertilizer to cover the area i milled over so the yard doesn't get starved.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

There was a burlish chunk that was a scar over top of a branch wound. I might try and turn that down but at this point i have a few too many irons in the fire.

Wood like that needs to be jumped on and roughed out before it starts to dry and crack. You could sink it in a bucket of water while it waits for you, no telling what that will do to the color.

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Thanks Chestnut. Way too much to spend for me to use at our townhouse with no place to store any drying wood. There's a growing need for us to move to a bigger place.

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2 hours ago, Gary Beasley said:

Wood like that needs to be jumped on and roughed out before it starts to dry and crack. You could sink it in a bucket of water while it waits for you, no telling what that will do to the color.

The color wasn't very good in the piece so i didn't give it high priority. It would have been most interesting for crazy grain but with how pale maple is there would be little effect from that.

28 minutes ago, legenddc said:

Thanks Chestnut. Way too much to spend for me to use at our townhouse with no place to store any drying wood. There's a growing need for us to move to a bigger place.

Yeah the MS661 holds decent resale value as it's worth a good 50% even after decent use (for a small engine i consider this decent as I have to pay someone to get rid of a used lawnmower or string trimmer), I"m not sure what the vale of the mills them selves are but these pieces of equipment are widely available used.

For smaller stuff you could save considerably but I didn't want to deal with used. It would be very possible to get a used ~70cc saw for $500 and limit yourself to processing cants which would allow you to get by with a smaller bar to keep storage space down. The nice part about this is the size of the saw and mill is very minimal so storage of the mill would be easy but the wood is the biggest issue.

The smaller you go the smaller chainsaw you could go with and the cheaper it would be. I went new and fairly big for a couple of reasons. There are probably 3 pages of PMs between myself and BMAC that helped me get to the point I'm at. I didn't want to deal with a saw that was going to have major downtime right off the bat. I also didn't want to have to buy a saw and then take it to get rebuilt so i went new. There are reputable people that.

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Good to know. I just scored some TP this morning. Maybe I'll sell it on the black market to finance a chainsaw mill.

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