MisterDrow

Wall Mounting Options

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I'm curious what you guys think would be the best mounting hardware for this corner shelf. I was thinking some keyhole mounts on the middle shelf with some wall anchors for the screws should be adequate. Any thoughts?

 

Screen Shot 2018-01-12 at 12.50.07 PM.jpg

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Corey,

What's it gonna hold? The amount of weight will narrow down your options. 

You can borrow my Domino if it would help. 

Chris

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Depends on the height it's mounted at. What is the joinery you've chosen for the mitered corners ?  Check the corner for squareness before you build it ! Drywall corners are rarely square, even if the framing is square the tape & mud throws the corner out.

You could locate the studs and drill the underside of the shelves for pocket screws. Or add a 3/4" x3/4" strip along the undersides and screw through that. Keyhole slots might not work on 3/4" thick shelves. Plastic wall anchors don't hold well. The EZ Anchors in plastic of zinc work quite well, I prefer the zinc ones.

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5 minutes ago, Chris208 said:

What's it gonna hold? The amount of weight will narrow down your options. 

You can borrow my Domino if it would help. 

Chris

An Apple wireless router and some knick-knacks... nothing too heavy. I'm building it on request of a friend of mine in Arizona but plan on building more of them to sell. 

And as much as I'd love an excuse to play with a domino, I think dowels & biscuits will work just fine for this round.

I still need to get that block plane from you, don't I? The holiday craziness is finally wearing off so I'll shoot you a text here soon.

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Just now, wdwerker said:

Depends on the height it's mounted at. What is the joinery you've chosen for the mitered corners ?  Check the corner for squareness before you build it ! Drywall corners are rarely square, even if the framing is square the tape & mud throws the corner out.

You could locate the studs and drill the underside of the shelves for pocket screws. Or add a 3/4" x3/4" strip along the undersides and screw through that. Keyhole slots might not work on 3/4" thick shelves. Plastic wall anchors don't hold well. The EZ Anchors in plastic of zinc work quite well, I prefer the zinc ones.

Probably about eye-level. It's going to a friend in Arizona when it's done. I told him to try and check the angle on the corner he wants to mount it in and I'd try to match it as closely as I can.

As for joinery, the vertical parts will be doweled and the miters in the back corners will be biscuits.

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Wow, that's a generous offer ! My Domino rarely leaves the shop. If you've got all your parts cut we could use it at my place one evening.....

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Continuous strip under the shelf would be strong and let him drill for screws wherever needed. 

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6 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Wow, that's a generous offer ! My Domino rarely leaves the shop. If you've got all your parts cut we could use it at my place one evening.....

Chris lives right around the corner from me (well, for now)... literally a mile or less away. I've been jealous of his Domino from the moment he got it... LOL

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6 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Continuous strip under the shelf would be strong and let him drill for screws wherever needed. 

I worry about that breaking the aesthetic of the shelf, though. I wonder if one of those thin metal french cleat deals for picture frames would work... it'd have to be 3/4" or less in height so it didn't stick out above or below the shelf... Hmmm...

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If you've got a router and ease the corner of the strip it will blend in. You could just run the strip under the middle and bottom shelves. Miter the ends of the ones under the bottom shelf in an inch or so from each end and they will disappear.

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I would be concerned about the square of the wall corners.  French cleats on both walls could be a problem if you are not really close to 90 degrees.  I favor a method (like the wood strip under the shelf) that will allow for a little less or a little more than 90 deg.  Flexibility is your friend.

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14 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

If you've got a router and ease the corner of the strip it will blend in. You could just run the strip under the middle and bottom shelves. Miter the ends of the ones under the bottom shelf in an inch or so from each end and they will disappear.

I think I can visualize what you are talking about here... I'll modify my sketchup file and post it to see if I am understanding you correctly.

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2 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

I would be concerned about the square of the wall corners.  French cleats on both walls could be a problem if you are not really close to 90 degrees.  I favor a method (like the wood strip under the shelf) that will allow for a little less or a little more than 90 deg.  Flexibility is your friend.

Yeah, what ^^^ he says.

No house has square corners.

 

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2 minutes ago, Minnesota Steve said:

No house has square corners.

Actual I found one once when I was redoing some base board.  They must have made a mistake.

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Just like that but all the way on the middle shelf and the mitered end stops an inch or so from the ends on the bottom shelf.  A  bead of glue and a few micropins will hold it in place.

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Got another guy in Virginia who wants one, now. Anyone have any tips on shipping things of this size? Cheapest I can find is $118 in a 22"x22"x22" box and since carriers charge for weight by volume (which is crap), it will be charged as if it weighs 49lbs. This is also too small to ship via freight.

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On 1/12/2018 at 2:35 PM, MisterDrow said:

I'm curious what you guys think would be the best mounting hardware for this corner shelf. I was thinking some keyhole mounts on the middle shelf with some wall anchors for the screws should be adequate. Any thoughts?

 

Screen Shot 2018-01-12 at 12.50.07 PM.jpg

Woodknot here! You can get picture hangers at most any hdwr store. Lowe's comes to mind as they have a type of hanger that you will rout or chisel and recess in the back edges of the frame in the critical balance and weight points of the frame upper and lower frames I would suggest. With adequate placement of these vertical "Hillman" single screw hangers you could mark them on the walls where you'll need them and strategically set them to receive the frame.  If you recess them you'll need to predrill the end of the hanger's "screw head" notch to receive the screw in the wall.... It's like a key hole.  Look in the "Lowe's web site" for picture hangers and you'll find them for around a $1.78. I do not know how to send you a link because the "insert other media" will not work for me! Good luck with your shelf project!

Woodknot

..." I'd rather do this than work for a living!

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Correction for the placement of the key hole hangers..... They're attached to the frame and NOT the wall.... I got ahead of myself and needed to make the distinction of wall and shelf attachment and which one gets the hanger!

Woodknot

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13 hours ago, Woodknot said:

Correction for the placement of the key hole hangers..... They're attached to the frame and NOT the wall.... I got ahead of myself and needed to make the distinction of wall and shelf attachment and which one gets the hanger!

Woodknot

Yeah, I know about those types of hangers and they are definitely on my list of consideration, in fact they were the first ones I thought of. I'll have to wait until I get it assembled and see how it sits on the wall. I like @wdwerker's method, too, and I think it may work better for more dense/heavy woods but I'm not certain it will be necessary for alder. I should know this weekend when I get back in the shop.

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I always treat stuff like its going to get the heaviest load that will fit on the shelf because one day they just might use it for huge solid lead figurines or something equally ridiculous.  Never underestimate the power of human stupidity.

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On 1/17/2018 at 12:22 PM, MisterDrow said:

Got another guy in Virginia who wants one, now. Anyone have any tips on shipping things of this size? Cheapest I can find is $118 in a 22"x22"x22" box and since carriers charge for weight by volume (which is crap), it will be charged as if it weighs 49lbs. This is also too small to ship via freight.

Predrill the holes for the dowels and number all of the pieces. Box the boards flat and include dowels and a small bottle of glue. IKEA would probably sue you for patent infringements;)

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I don't think you could put heyhole hangers on both sides of the corner.  You wouldn't be able to slide it past the screw sticking out on one wall to engage with the hanger on the other wall.  You've got to put the fasteners on one wall in with it already in place.

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That totally depends on the screw head diameter and keyhole “large” portion. The large portion would need to be sized to allow for diagonal placement on each wall. Practice with scrap. 

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6 hours ago, C Shaffer said:

That totally depends on the screw head diameter and keyhole “large” portion. The large portion would need to be sized to allow for diagonal placement on each wall. Practice with scrap. 

Yeah, I'm going to play around with some options this weekend. The customer isn't expecting it until mid-to-late february anyways so I've got some time to work out these details. My concern with Steve's method is that it makes the customer's job of hanging/mounting more difficult but it's definitely more sturdy. The guy did say that the only thing he's really worried about are his cats jumping onto the shelf so maybe Steve's method would be the way to go.

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