lewisc Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Work has begun on my table! Not the most complicated thing I’ve tried but certainly the biggest. The base will be painted so the legs are a mix of various sized timber. I went with what was available rather than purchasing new timber for the legs. They were glued up in the same orientation so there shouldn’t be any problems. I’ve made one leg as a sort of prototype and I’m happy with it. The taper was cut on the bandsaw and then cleaned up with the jointer. The other legs will be finished tomorrow and I can then start marking out joinery. I have have a feeling that breadboard ends will be a good option but haven’t made up my mind on that one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Off to a great start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 its always fun to start a new project, looking good so far. i think you will want breadboard ends IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 I added breadboard ends because I included my wife in the design phase. She thought they would look nice and they do. To this day she proudly tells people she helped design the table and it has breadboards because of her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 The leg tapers were cut today. A little finessing and sanding and they’ll be done. I marked and cut mortices on the legs for the short aprons. I did a quick dry fit and it might be a bit narrow. I’ll do some reading tonight and make some decisions regarding the width. Because I’m using loose tenons, it shouldn’t be too much work to make new aprons if I do decide to make the table wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 Make sure there is room under the apron for a chair & a person seated. Remember that " thunder thighs " exist more frequently these days. I inherited a table that the aprons block the 2 arm chairs from being pushed under. Lower the arms or narrow the apron, probably a bit of both would have been the best solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 I tinkered with some loose tenon stock today. I’ll need to adjust the round over slightly on the router table but it was still a tight fit. How tight should these be? I had to tap it in with a mallet but it would probably push the glue out. It was a nice, square fit though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 You might cut a small groove or two along it so glue can escape from the mortise as it is pushed in. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: You might cut a small groove or two along it so glue can escape from the mortise as it is pushed in. Or just hit it lightly with a fine cut of a shoulder plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 +1 on what Ross and Rick said. Loose tenons are usually a push fit rather than an interference fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 I think it might be time get a set of digital callipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 They are handy. Ability to switch from imperial to metric can be useful too. Plus big numbers & no squinting at 1/64 scales. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Loose tenons cut today. I’m going to go ahead and do a test for the rails and place a sheet of MDF on top to do some sizing. I have a feeling the rails need to be a touch bigger length and width ways to be a comfortable fit. If that’s the case, I can repurpose the long rails to be short ones and make up new long rails. Once that’s done , I can clean the legs and rails and glue up. I’ve seen a few videos of people using ratchet straps to glue a dining table up in one go. Is this a good move? For smaller tables I’ve done, I normally glue the two short sides, and then the long sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 I would glue the two short sides first then the long sides, I've done it that way before and it seemed to work well. the ratchet strap idea would take a few extra hands and with the glue drying you don't have a lot of time to adjust ratchet straps. connect some pipe clamps together or use this as an excuse to get more clamps. looking great so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Glue 2 short first, give them an hour or so in the clamps then glue the long sides in. That's assuming you are using yellow wood glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post lewisc Posted February 6, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Test fit number 1. I’m happy with the width but the length is tight. Especially with chairs next to each other. I’ll extend the base length by 200mm (8”) or so. It’s mainly the base that needs it. After that, I’ll put a support piece (maybe 2 of them) across the middle. I think it was Jay Bates who has a video of this using a stopped sliding dovetail - seems like a good option. The longest clamps just reach to the outside of the rails, not the legs. I'll either join some clamps together or test and use the ratchet straps. I’ll likely go with epoxy for the glueup so I’ve got time to work with it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 2 crosspieces looks about right. Are you going to use " Z " clips or furniture buttons to attach the top ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Z clips. I find them simple and easy to use. Unless there’s an advantage to furniture buttons I don’t know about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 I milled up some new rails today. They’re about 250mm longer than the previous ones. The extra length will be good so 3 people can fit nicely. I’ve got to start practicing a sliding dovetail for the inner support beams. It’s been a while since I’ve cut one. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 If at all possible practice on wood the exact same thickness as the boards you intend to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 I’ve gotta work on my handtool game. I tried some half sliding dovetails for the inner rail support pieces today. Attempt one was not so great. Attempt two was a little better. The fit was good but they’re not that pretty. I have a theory that this timber isn’t the best for chiseling. Of course, it’s probably more my technique than anything. They were a touch tight so I end up with some chip out. I’ll give it a few more goes but probably end up using a dovetail bit in the router - at least for the channel. Cutting the end of the board went ok. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted February 8, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 Looks better than mine would. When it comes to chiseling a clean line, sharp and slow is what its all about. My impatience (taking big bites) usually gets me into trouble. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 8, 2018 Report Share Posted February 8, 2018 5 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Looks better than mine would. When it comes to chiseling a clean line, sharp and slow is what its all about. My impatience (taking big bites) usually gets me into trouble. I have come to learn this lesson too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted February 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Test round 3 went better. I mixed up my approach and used a mitre saw to establish the edges of the channel. I then used to a chisel to clean up all the waste. I cut the other part by hand though. I’m happy enough with it to start cutting the main parts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post lewisc Posted February 12, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 I started the sliding dovetail for the inner rails. Practice makes good. There’s a nice feeling when things start working. They’re not perfect but I’m happy with the way a bit of practice helps these things get better. The next step is to plane, scrap and sand everything ready for glue up. It should be done in the next few days. After that, I’ve got to find some boards for the top. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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