Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 I just wanted to throw this out into the land of fresh minds as I've been staring at the issue for a week now, and an still stuck on a way forward. I've been working on this wall hanging cabinet for a while and while fitting the doors, somehow I screwed up. After many on and off cycles adjusting hinges, my gap is now massive and inconsistent. There are a few fleeting options that have come and gone for a possible fix, that doesn't include a full door rebuild as I'm out of the maple, and mostly out of the two pieces of walnut I wanted this entire thing to come from. I'd love to hear and ideas, because honestly. Looking at the current state of the fit, is frustrating and making me not like the project too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Can't you move the doors and drawer fronts inwards to close the gap ? When hanging a cabinet like that any twist or racking will definitely affect the gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 What hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Steve, the doors outside stiles are perfectly aligned to the outsides of the cabinet. Moving them in to close the gap means them not aligning on the outsides. This is one option I have considered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 4 minutes ago, Tom King said: What hinges? Tom, I'm using some small Brusso 95° stop hinges I got a whole ago during a brusso sale. Nice hinges, but zero adjustability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Add a Tee astragal strip up the center is probably your safest bet considering those hinges. Or add a contrasting strip to one door. If the case isn't glued up would shortening the top and bottom be possible ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Two thoughts both of which I admit are from the peanut gallery. Is it possible to use a different hinge at this point that would allow some adjustability? I suspect the existing screw holes will end up being in the wrong places. It's a real nice looking cabinet, but would you consider modifying the design to include a thin vertical piece filling the gap? Could be walnut or another contrasting wood. You could attach it to the carcass which would leave it in place when the doors are opened, or it could be fixed to one of the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown craftsman Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 I would make new ones. There's two things I see the gaps are too big. And the wood you picked for the doors frames is too wild. It doesn't match the nice mellow pieces you picked for the drawer. You might also find in time the wild grain will not behave and the doors will not sit flat on the face of the cabinet. The maple panels look great and should be the star of the show. Aj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 That maple is amazing! I'd make new casework. The doors seem like the important part. Either that or I'll 2nd what Steve said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 36 minutes ago, Chestnut said: That maple is amazing! I'd make new casework. The doors seem like the important part. Either that or I'll 2nd what Steve said. Remaking the casework also isn't an option. This whole project was really an exercise of using 2 boards, for a whole project. This will live in the shop with me. Honestly, I'd trash it before a rebuild. It just wouldn't be worth it to me. Im currently leaning toward a static divider. I just don't like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 3 minutes ago, Brendon_t said: Remaking the casework also isn't an option. This whole project was really an exercise of using 2 boards, for a whole project. This will live in the shop with me. Honestly, I'd trash it before a rebuild. It just wouldn't be worth it to me. Im currently leaning toward a static divider. I just don't like it. Well if you trash it mail me those doors i'll put em to good use. I'd cover shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 1 hour ago, Unknown craftsman said: . And the wood you picked for the doors frames is too wild. It doesn't match the nice mellow pieces you picked for the drawer Aj Funny you say this. The door and drawer stock is the same board Sam area, just resawed. The "wild" grain there is actually the most boring parts of the board I started with. Knew the maple needed subtle surround. Just now, Chestnut said: Well if you trash it mail me those doors i'll put em to good use. I'd cover shipping. Deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 A " T " shaped strip attached to the front or back of one door has the advantage of not impeading access once the doors are open. You could also make an " L " shaped strip if you want to be able to open either door independently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 9 minutes ago, wdwerker said: A " T " shaped strip attached to the front or back of one door has the advantage of not impeading access once the doors are open. You could also make an " L " shaped strip if you want to be able to open either door independently. I like where you're going but having trouble visualizing. Do you have an easily accessable example? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Another option I have been considering is dying some wenge or walnut black, and gluing the front two door faces together, with the strip in the current gap, then separating them with the track saw leaving a little black strip on each side. I would have to perform the same steps on the drawer faces as I matched the gap there, to the doors before stepping back and cringing. I could also use a light color wood for contrast or Cherry which is what the inside shelf is made out of. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 A "T" with the top cross on the outside and the post between the doors would be closed second. If the " T" is on the inside then the door it's attached to would be closed first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 13 minutes ago, wdwerker said: A "T" with the top cross on the outside and the post between the doors would be closed second. If the " T" is on the inside then the door it's attached to would be closed first. So essentially an applied moulding to the face of the doors that is connected to one and not the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Yes. The inside corner of the applied molding would increase the glue surface and strengthen it from getting knocked off accidentally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 As an idea for next time, I have had good success leaving the doors too wide, then hand planing the inner stiles until I get a good fit. I think if it were me I'd just try to glue a thin strip of wood to both stiles. Up to you if you want to try and blend or add more contrast. I'd probably leave the drawers as is. Grain is moving the other direction, which complicates things, and the gap down there doesnt bother me, as it seems to have a face frame or center support between them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 I've shimed hinges occasionally to move a door inward. But they were bigger doors and larger hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 3 hours ago, wdwerker said: Yes. The inside corner of the applied molding would increase the glue surface and strengthen it from getting knocked off accidentally. Now what about spinning that into, gluing both sides of the t in, then cutting a kerf as the new gap. Both open 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 I think that’s the best idea yet Brendon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Yea , you could do that. But make the vertical of the " T " thicker to allow for the kerf and cleaning up any saw marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Do you have any of that walnut left? You could add a strip on the inside edge of each door then rip along the face of the door to remove the face of the stile and then veneer over it to cover the strips. Basically ripping off the face of the board so you can veneer over it and have the veneer end up flush with everything else. You could repeat it on the backside if desired so you'd only be able to see the repair on the edge of the door when they are open. Another option is to rip it down on the other three sides and apply a thin molding all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Projects like this make good fires. Best to move on, and make it better next time bud. Only so much you can do, and all the options will look like an afterthought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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