ktb15 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 why not just throw on some adjustable hinges like the Blum and be done with it? I saw that you said the outside of the doors align with the edges of the cabinet and that would've been a cool design but most overlay cabinet doors don't go all the way to the edge of the cabinet so it wouldn't look out of place at all. Just my opinion but I think any of your other options at this point will look like an after thought and that looks like the gap is only around 1/4" so that would only mean moving the doors in less than 1/8" each and would look totally normal. I also agree with what another member said that once you get that hung on the wall and some weight in it you're going to have be very careful not to have some racking so without adjustable hinges you're gap and flush edges would be off anyways so that would probably drive you crazy. If you're shop isn't climate controlled you can expect some movement on the doors too so I'm just thinking that flush edge of the door and cabinet won't be flush for long so might as well make your life easier and have it not be flush to begin with. It's a nice cabinet especially in a shop so no need to over complicate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Add a decorative piece of trim to fill the gap ( combination trim and door pull? )or just make new ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graffis Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 This idea of gluing and clamping a walnut strip between the doors and then ripping it down the middle makes sense to me. In order to hide the glue line, you might want to consider routing a bead (see link below) down the edge of the styles on both sides of each door. If you want to extend the bead to the end of the drawer front, that may be another consideration. .http://www.rockler.com/search/go?isort=score&lgkey=http%3a%2f%2fwww.rockler.com%2ffreud-corner-beading-bit&method=and&p=R&restrict=site%3anormal&rk=4&rsc=IgouvsNQXAvOcqOt&ts=custom&uid=674297908&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.rockler.com%2ffreud-corner-beading-bit&view=grid&w=BEADING BITS Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 The beading bit is a great idea to hide the seam, but I would use the smallest one possible. http://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_bit_freud_bits_traditional_bead.htm they have a 1/8 radius bead If you don't have a beading bit or want to wait on one you might be able to make a scratch stock out of a card scraper with a round file like the ones used to sharpen chainsaws. Then you could do it old school ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 32 minutes ago, wdwerker said: If you don't have a beading bit or want to wait on one you might be able to make a scratch stock out of a card scraper with a round file like the ones used to sharpen chainsaws. Then you could do it old school ! Or the head of a screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I'm still open to changing hinges if I'll give the ability to close the gap with little mods but I'm not sure of any that don't need a deep cup. Neither the case or doors are overly think. I'll do some searching and see if there are any that would fit the bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Cup hinges need a 35 mm dia hole 12 mm deep (1/2" ) and the baseplate typically uses 1/2" or 5/8 screws. So case sides around 5/8 or better and 5/8 or 11/16 door thickness would work. They do make "no drill " concealed hinges but I haven't used them in years so find the exact specs before you consider using them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I like @gee-dub 's idea. Glue a strip of dark wood, like wenge or ebony, down the inside AND outside edges of each door and continue down the sides of the drawer fronts. Leave the strip on the inside of each door proud by enough to form a pull. I realize this is starting to get a little crazy for a shop cabinet, but it seems like a pleasing way to recover from the mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Whatever solution you choose you'll have to bring it back so we can see how it worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Ok, I am not just trolling and do not want to pick any fights. My concern is with the flat sawn knotty wide rails and stiles as another woodworker recently pointed me to consider in design. There is a good chance you are chasing your tail and that movement will be problematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 On 1/28/2018 at 9:49 PM, Llama said: Projects like this make good fires. Best to move on, and make it better next time bud. Only so much you can do, and all the options will look like an afterthought. Exactly what I was thinking. The anguish is forgotten when it's gone up in smoke. I'd save the panels, and remake the stiles, and rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 3 hours ago, Tom King said: Exactly what I was thinking. The anguish is forgotten when it's gone up in smoke. I'd save the panels, and remake the stiles, and rails. Like a phoenix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post JosephThomas Posted January 31, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 3 hours ago, Tom King said: Exactly what I was thinking. The anguish is forgotten when it's gone up in smoke. I'd save the panels, and remake the stiles, and rails. He said it was a shop cabinet....burning a shop cabinet makes no sense to me. Try to repair it for the practice then just use it... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 8 minutes ago, JosephThomas said: He said it was a shop cabinet....burning a shop cabinet makes no sense to me. Try to repair it for the practice then just use it... Unless you use your shop to work with clients. Then again, might be a good way to ward that off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I understand your fustration and feel your pain. It will pass. You still have a nice cabinet for your shop. I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 15 hours ago, C Shaffer said: Ok, I am not just trolling and do not want to pick any fights. My concern is with the flat sawn knotty wide rails and stiles as another woodworker recently pointed me to consider in design. There is a good chance you are chasing your tail and that movement will be problematic. Yeah, the problem is, you're right. I've already had to shim the hinges once thinking they weren't perfect when initially set. Nope, bottom corner has a gap again. That sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted January 31, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Here is an example of a piece of walnut trim like I was talking about. These run horizontally and affix to the carcass. You could attach to the door edge and get a visually similar treatment. The pieces are rabbeted to fit to the edge they are treating and project about 1/4" with a half round profile exposed. They appear above and below the doors and drawers when all is in place. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks @gee-dub. Unfortunately, the Brain trust above is correct in calling out a concern with the walnut chosen for the rails and styles. It's creepy and creepin. At this point, I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and rebuild the doors, again. I've got some lighter colors QS walnut on the rack I think would be nice boring stable material for the door frames. Thanks to all for their input on possible fixed. The take away for me is to be very sure the stock for door frames are boring and dry. One or the other, don't cut it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Is this some of your home milled stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 8 hours ago, Chestnut said: Is this some of your home milled stock? I did mill the tree but at a buddies yard. These are the last pieces of some pretty questionable left over sticks that weren't really suitable for the projects the rest of the tree has been used for. I knew it was going to be a crap shoot, if I could take the coal to at least a cool CZ, I'm good with that. I would probably have burned these pieces whole if the idea to resaw and bookmark the entire thing hadn't popped into my brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 On 1/31/2018 at 8:48 AM, gee-dub said: Gee, Help me understand the construction of the sides. From the outside it is frame and panel and on the inside it appears to be ply and the top edge looks to be 3/4' or so thick. I almost don't want to ask this question as I'm sure it's obvious and I should know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 My guess is 1/4" ply inside to close up the recess where the back of the side panels are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 would you put a rabbet on the inside edges of the stiles and rails to get it flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 58 minutes ago, wdwerker said: My guess is 1/4" ply inside to close up the recess where the back of the side panels are. I would have thought that the panels, as they look pretty thick from the outside, would be flush with the rails and stiles on the inside. And how are the shelves attached to the side, to the three stiles? I guess I just highjacked Brendon’s thread. Sorry bud, I owe you a shot or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 15 hours ago, K Cooper said: Gee, Help me understand the construction of the sides. From the outside it is frame and panel and on the inside it appears to be ply and the top edge looks to be 3/4' or so thick. I almost don't want to ask this question as I'm sure it's obvious and I should know. Threadjack - There is a 1/2" BB ply filler panel on the inside of the equipment area on each end frame and panel assembly. These are actually attached with a bit of silicone rubber cement to prevent rattling. they are a sort of heat shield to protect he frame and panels while steering hot air out the vents in the back. The offset of the frame and panels makes the 1/2" panels flush. the middle shelf is cherry. In the pic it is unfinished and appears very light. More on this build here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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