Popular Post difalkner Posted January 29, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 When I do my glue-ups for cutting boards I leave a 'stick' or two a bit long on either end to prevent snipe in not only the planer but also the drum sander. This has the same effect as feeding a sacrificial board before and after your target board for surfacing. I don't always get snipe on my DW735 planer but it's often enough that doing this eliminates the snipe. The little board that's protruding may get some snipe but the target board doesn't. Hope this works for you like it does for me - David 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post wdwerker Posted January 29, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 If my primary wood for the board is in limited supply I will add a couple longer strips of poplar or other cheap scrap to the outside edges. It's easy to rip it off after planing & sanding. It doesn't need but a tiny stripe of glue, just don't drop the board. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuklz Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Great tip, thank you for sharing. Will definitely try this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wimayo Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 A variation on that theme is to lead the piece you are planing with a cut-off of the same thickness and then follow it with another cut-off. Just make sure that the cut-offs butt against your working piece. The idea is to keep the lead and following feed rollers up at the same level until the workpiece has passed the knives. It would sometimes help to have three hands when doing this, but it works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 44 minutes ago, Wimayo said: A variation on that theme is to lead the piece you are planing with a cut-off of the same thickness and then follow it with another cut-off. Just make sure that the cut-offs butt against your working piece. The idea is to keep the lead and following feed rollers up at the same level until the workpiece has passed the knives. It would sometimes help to have three hands when doing this, but it works. Yep, I do that all the time but realized a while back that I can just make a couple of pieces longer when I do cutting board glue-ups and that relieves me of the 3-hand dance. Also, if the board is to be cut with a profile on the CNC it gives me a couple of outboard places to anchor the piece without fear of the bit hitting a clamp. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Triebe Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Yep, I try and do the same sort of thing whenever possible. Works great! Good tip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Awesome tip for cutting boards! -Ace- 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterDrow Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 This is one of those, "Well why didn't I think of that?" tips. Very nice! Thanks for sharing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 First time I've heard anyone mention snipe from a drum sander! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Its possible especially if you are taking a big cut and there is any spring , twist or warp in the board. Lack of infeed/outfeed tables make it more likely on longer boards. Lack of rolller stands on infeed/outfeed would also be a factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krtwood Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 There's always a tiny bit of snipe on my Jet 10-20. It's not like it's deep, but certainly noticeable when you hit it with the random-orbit. Enough to be worth taking steps to avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: First time I've heard anyone mention snipe from a drum sander! I was surprised, as well, the first time I saw it. The SuperMax 19-38 is an awesome drum sander but it will snipe both the leading and trailing edge if you're not careful. So the easy thing to do is keep a few boards of different thicknesses at the drum sander to feed before and after my target board. The manual tells you how to adjust the spring rollers to avoid snipe, though I'm not sure they refer to it as snipe - don't recall, but that adjustment didn't eliminate the snipe. Even when I added the infeed/outfeed tables the snipe was still there. When I make large Walnut plaques and shoot them with gloss lacquer the snipe is very evident but the sacrificial boards completely eliminate the problem. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wimayo Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 One more tip. If you just slightly raise the trailing end of your work piece when starting the pass and then slightly raise the leading end as the pass is being completed, you will often totally eliminate snipe. It will take a little practice to get it right. This works best on longer pieces. However, shorter pieces usually don't have as much of a problem (in my experience) if your infeed and outfeed tables are properly adjusted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleedinblue Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 The snipe from my drum sander has convinced me of the necessity of the infeed and outfeed tables. I think that will take care of it for all but very long boards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I added the infeed/outfeed tables a couple of months ago and they've really helped with material flow. Now short pieces don't fall off the back side but there's still a tiny bit of snipe on occasion, even on long boards. It's just enough that I feed a sacrificial board almost every time. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Huh no noticeable snipe on my new Supermax 16-32. I thought this was about planers not drum sanders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
difalkner Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 This photo was taken back in April 2017 before I realized what was happening on the drum sander. These have only been sanded, not run through the planer. After I did the suggested adjustment it was a lot better but still exists. Now I use a board before and after and get zero snipe. These plaques were laser engraved and had mistakes so the trophy shop asked me to sand through the engraving and refinish. At this point they have one coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and have been hand sanded in preparation for the gloss lacquer top coat. The snipe is so slight that you can't feel it unless you're really paying attention, not at all like planer snipe that is very easy to feel. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAverageCraftsman Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Thanks for the tip. I could have used this when I made about 10 cutting boards over the holidays! I have a DW735 and there hasn't been a ton of snipe so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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