Popular Post Isaac Posted March 7, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Just picked up this Type 11 Stanley at an antique mall earlier today for $25. It had a pretty good coat of surface rust, but didn't seem to be anything deep, so I pulled the trigger on it. I'm really look for some smaller planes, block planes, etc. but if I see a good one, I'll grab it. Here is the price tag, just to confirm! I tried out this rustoleum product for rust removal, which is a phosphoric acid based. Here it is after clean up and sharpening I already had another type 11, so I decided to compare the subtle differences (today's plane on top). Old plane has multiple stamps, with the most recent date being Apr 19-10, while the new plane only has one single date, the same Apr 19-10 The biggest difference I detected was in the lever cap. Today's plane has Stanley stamp and nicer machining of lever joint and bolt. Older plane does not have Stanley stamp and has more crude lever. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Someone call the pedant police. The one you cleaned is a type 13, pretty sure type 14 went to the kidney shaped hole in the lever iron. The other one is a type 12 because it has the same style high knob as your type 13. They both should have the SW Heart logo on the cutting irons as well. If they don't the irons were replaced at some point. Sorry, I've just be staring at a LOT of Stanley planes the last few days. In the end it doesn't matter unless you care. They both look great. did you flatten the sole at all? I usually take some time and try and flatten the old planes a bit, you never know what they may have been through and it can help them cut a bit better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Thanks for clearing that up, looks like I misinterpreted the dating chart. That does explain the differences in the lever caps. I cleaned up the sole, it seems "flat", But we all know that is a relative term. I just kind of wanted to see what I could get accomplished in a little more than an hours work. What is your go to method for flattening and verifying flatness? The type 13 has the SW Heart Logo, the other does not, so I guess it was swapped out before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmize Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 I use a piece of plate glass with a belt sander roll on it. I usually start at 80 grit an just an once I get a even shine from front to back I stick some 120 grit on there for just a little more. Just push the plane back an forth like you are planning just not as much down force. Once done rub some wax on it an you are go to go. MDF works to or granite just need a very solid flat surface underneath to match the plane bottom to. The sand paper will begin to clog up quickly in the beginning so just keep rotating the paper so you wear your self. I use the Grey cheap kind from Lowe’s can’t remember the brand name 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDi Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Curious how the rustoleom worked? i generally use a vinegar bath with modest results. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jfitz Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 nicely done. good looking plane(s). FWIW, I used a similar product called "metal restore' on my plane. It works the same as evaporust - it's a chelating solution as opposed to an acid. I think it worked really well, but that's just me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 2 hours ago, JohnDi said: Curious how the rustoleom worked? i generally use a vinegar bath with modest results. I've used vinegar before and this was similar, but worked faster. I think I will be trying a chelating solution next time to see how that performs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 9 hours ago, Tmize said: I use a piece of plate glass with a belt sander roll on it. I usually start at 80 grit an just an once I get a even shine from front to back I stick some 120 grit on there for just a little more. Just push the plane back an forth like you are planning just not as much down force. Once done rub some wax on it an you are go to go. MDF works to or granite just need a very solid flat surface underneath to match the plane bottom to. The sand paper will begin to clog up quickly in the beginning so just keep rotating the paper so you wear your self. I use the Grey cheap kind from Lowe’s can’t remember the brand name That sounds pretty similar to my method. The new plane has a small area of pitting on the sole, but not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmize Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Yea for a jack plane it want effect anything. Especially if you use it as a post foreplane use. I use a #5 Generic as my scrub plane an my Stanley #5 is set to where it will take a 1/16 to couple thousandths of a inch shaving on most parts no need in running a smoother over for finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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