kg14

When do you know when your Mitre saw blade needs replacing

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Hi,

I'm currently doing a Laminate floor project in our house and before spending $70 on two New 80 tooth blade's I wanted to ask for help.

I'm currently using this 12" Dewalt 80 tooth blade

https://www.lowes.ca/circular-saw-blades/dewalt-dw3128-construction-12-in-80-tooth-carbide-saw-blade_g861761.html

I've only done a few rows but now the saw struggles to even cut the 12mm Laminate, I need to make two passes now and I still have resists when cutting the piece.  I've seen a little burning but the plastic/wood veneer is still clean with zero chipping.

The saw has been dying for years and I know I've used this blade for cutting some MDF trim and 2x4's and the teeth still look okay.

I thought I would ask for advice before buying some more blades.

thank you

 

 

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I would look into a blade that is specific to cutting laminate flooring.  A lot of those flooring products have recycled materials in them and can be extra hard on a regular blade.

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What chet and kent said. Also depending on how much you use your saw consider stepping up to a decent brand blade that would be able to be resharpened a few times. It makes the marginally more expensive blade cheaper in the long run.

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Hi Kegggers, how do you tell if the teeth are dirty?

 

Chet, I never knew they made blades just for laminate I thought a 80 tooth was my best bet. I know the dust is awful and the smell, even wearing a mask I can feel it on my mouth and throat. awful stuff

 

Just wish I never sold my Kapex saw

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Chestnut what are some good brand blades? I don't usually do laminate floor installs and mostly install real hardwood floors. This is a rental house so laminate is best.

I need to also make sure these companies that sharpen blades will work with a Canadian customer. There's many things I want but they don't ship here like it's Russia or Africa.

I want to buy this tilesize and even the company won't ship here

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TileSizer-10-in-Ultimate-Tile-Jig-for-Wet-Saw-TS001/203367232?MERCH=REC-_-atc-_-203054774-_-203367232-_-N

 

 

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Try cleaning the blade first.

I've always had really good luck with Freud blades they are affordable good quality and can be sharpened a few times.

http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/dealer_locator

Above link is to a dealer locator.

For sharpening services a google search for your area should bring up some results. I'm sure there are also mail order sharpening  services in Canada.

Otherwise some of the Canadians on the forum might chime in.

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Something like This or the Freud equivalent 

The Kapex wouldn't have helped, it is actually under powered saw for a task like this.  The stuff you are cutting is just plane hard material.

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1 hour ago, Chet said:

I would look into a blade that is specific to cutting laminate flooring.  A lot of those flooring products have recycled materials in them and can be extra hard on a regular blade.

That, and the finish coating, which can contain aluminum oxide for long wear.

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Check the blade for any kind of residue. You'll want all the teeth to be nice and clean. Wow! I sound like my dentist!

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19 minutes ago, Keggers said:

You'll want all the teeth to be nice and clean. Wow! I sound like my dentist!

:lol:

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3 hours ago, Chet said:

Something like This or the Freud equivalent 

The Kapex wouldn't have helped, it is actually under powered saw for a task like this.  The stuff you are cutting is just plane hard material.

Really I thought with my CT26 I would have zero issues with dust, I know when I did all my finish trim work cutting MDF everything was perfect.

When someone hands you $1450 cash and you only spent $1050 USD and they want $1900+ here I jumped. I'm just kicking myself now as I have three 100 Sq ft rooms with laminate.

Really an 84 tooth blade, I'm using a 12" saw right now as it's a cheap Craftman's with aperture problems. So that 10" blade won't work unless I buy my Makita or Bosch.

What if I cut the material from the backside, would it wear the teeth out less.

I already bought these today

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/saw-blade-12in-80t-fine-finish-avanti-2pk.html

Also here's the laminate 12mm+2mm backing

https://www.lowes.ca/laminate-flooring/armstrong-12mm-2mm-pad-aged-cherry-high-gloss-laminate-flooring_g2250539.html?searchTerm=armstrong

Thank you everyone for your suggestions and helpB)

 

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23 minutes ago, kg14 said:

Really I thought with my CT26 I would have zero issues with dust, I know when I did all my finish trim work cutting MDF everything was perfect.

I wasn't referencing the dust collection but the power of the saw itself on a hard/dense product like you are working with.

 

25 minutes ago, kg14 said:

Really an 84 tooth blade, I'm using a 12" saw right now as it's a cheap Craftman's with aperture problems. So that 10" blade won't work unless I buy my Makita or Bosch.

 

I was just referring to the type of blade.  I didn't know whether you needed a 10 or 12 inch blade.  I am sure there is a 12 inch version.   It looks like the blades you bought are for fine finish cutting.  Its not just the tooth count on the blade but also the geometry of how the teeth are ground.  That is why I suggested one that was for cutting laminate.  

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I used my festool jigsaw for laminate flooring.  Bosch makes specific blades and went through like butter.  But the others are right, laminate flooring is tough on blades.  If you are wearing a respirator and get the smell you describe, the filters need to be replaced.  

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That's actually not an awful blade.  I don't know anything about laminate, but would think any sharp blade would go right through it.   I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a blade just to cut laminate with, especially if it's not convenient to get one sharpened.   I would buy a cheap Irwin, or whatever is available there.

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8 minutes ago, Tom King said:

 I would buy a cheap Irwin, or whatever is available there.

Some laminates are just plane hard material Tom and cheap blades just don't help matters, they just dull way to quick.

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Cheap Irwins are carbide toothed blades. The carbide is typically thin enough that they are throw away to some instead of sharpening via regrind. I have cut metal and fiber cement with Irwin Marathons. The only thing I can think about laminate is that the hardness differential might cause some chip out of the surface. How many cuts in laminate are left exposed?

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I keep some Irwin blades for questionable materials, that I don't want to put a good blade into, and they're not that bad.   There's not much carbide there, but the blade cost to start with is in line with what it costs to sharpen a good blade.   I've found them in packs of 2 or 3 for a low price.  I wouldn't pay the regular retail, single pack price for them.

I've even bought the really cheap Avanti blades from Home Depot, and they're better than you might expect too.  If the laminate dulled a new Dewalt blade pretty quickly, I'd be in for something like this to get the job done:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-12-in-x-80-Teeth-Fine-Finish-Saw-Blade-2-Pack-P128080PP/202519463

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Laminate flooring is brutal on saw teeth.  Get a blade made for cutting laminate flooring. Then keep it clean. Resin build up will cause heat and faster dulling.

  • Thanks 1

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Wow, thanks for all the replies. I only have internet for so many hours during the day as  I live in the country as it's awful here at 5mbps .so I can't reply to everyone instantly.

Chet I haven't opened those cheap blades yet and thought for $57 it would work for this little laminate floor install.

Minnosta steve that Diablo blade looks perfect, it's $175 here unless I can use a shipping hub And buy from Home Depot. 

I haven't cleaned my Dewalt blade yet and will post some pictures of the teeth, they look good with a little grove on each tooth.

About my mask and smelling this awful product, I will admit I had already cut some pieces before going and buying a mask, so the mdf dust was already on my hands and face I bet.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Midlife said:

Have you thought about a guillotine for cutting the laminate flooring , no mess or dust ;)

Only for cross cuts. They won’t rip. 

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