Dave Trendymiddlename Starr Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 I'm designing a corner desk for my home office. As designed, it's two feet deep, it'll run seven feet along each wall. The left cabinet will have three drawers, the right cabinet will house my PC on a tray that slides out for access. Here's my design so far: A major design consideration is that I want this to be relatively easy to break down into smaller pieces. So far, so good. This can be broken down into the left and right cabinets, the left and right back rails, the corner leg, and the top can be broken down into left, right, and corner, as well. Here's an exploded view: The only problem I've come across in this design so far is that I can't figure out how to connect the corner leg to the underside of the top in such a way that it is stable but still removable. This design would be simplified if the desk had typical aprons that the top attached to, but I like my design currently where the back rails are dropped 1 1/2" below the top, as the rails will be handy for affixing various cables to for cable management and the gap between the top and the rails make for easier cable routing. Here's a better shot of what's going on at the moment: The rails have been made transparent so you can get a more detailed look at the situation here. So yeah, I'm struggling to think of a sturdy way to attach that leg to the top in a way that is still removable in the future for transportation. Does anyone have any ideas? I can make my SketchUp file available if that would be helpful for anyone. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keggers Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Maybe something like this would work for you. Looks like a fun project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 Why not cut small spacer blocks that fit in between the rails, screwing up through the rail and spacer, making allowances for wood movement. I would be more worried about the unsupported top on opposite the leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 If the rail connections provide some stability , you don't need much from the leg to top connection. Maybe this sort of hardware? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSVLS6C/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b290M_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=94AG581B4KD166F53GNE&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=2923551c-9ac8-5981-8919-5adbb60cc39e&pf_rd_i=511274 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted April 20, 2018 Report Share Posted April 20, 2018 This might be better. go to rockler site and search for" surface mount corner bracket " 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephThomas Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 8 hours ago, wdwerker said: This might be better. go to rockler site and search for" surface mount corner bracket " http://www.rockler.com/surface-mount-corner-brackets-for-table-aprons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 No leg required. Attach the 1x material to the wall. Notch out each cabinet so the 1x material is part of the back. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 The two pedestal cabinets make a great leg, so use them. I'm more concerned about that long, unsupported front edge. I'd add two 1x2 aprons that go from each cabinet, along the front of the desk to the curve, and then continue straight to the 1x material against the wall. If you don't want to attach the 1x to the wall (renting, or want to easily move), then support it with the two cabinets and a leg in the corner, like you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Trendymiddlename Starr Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Yeah, my current desk is a corner desk from Ikea. It's a 3/4" solid top supported by three trestle legs, one left, right, and in the back corner. And it's surprisingly stable. Especially in regards to the inside corner which doesn't have any support underneath it, there's no flex or anything. Perfectly stable. My design has much better support at the left and right and the top is 1 1/2" inches versus 3/4", so it should be even more stable. So I'm not concerned about the unsupported inside corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Trendymiddlename Starr Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Also, this is how I intend to join the corners of the desk. 3/4" steel or aluminum rods, 6" long each, three epoxied into one side of the joint, two epoxied into the other. Then on the underside, some small steel brackets in place only to prevent the joint from working itself loose. I've never done this before, but I feel like this should work. So yeah, everything else is pretty well figured-out, I think. Except how to attach the darn corner leg. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Seems like this L desk comes up a lot.Here and Here both have input on how to join the top together at 1.5" thick you don't need an inner apron just a solid means of attachment. For the desk i built i sit on the inside corner and there is no flex or creaking what so ever. You could use the same method to attach the aprons to the leg honestly dowel with something to stop it from pulling apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Just thinking outside the box here . . . any chance of a cleat on the walls in the corner to act as a support for the rear corner? Out of sight, no leg to tangle with when running cables, easily moved from site to site but, there would be minor wall patching when the cleats were removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJH30518 Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Here are my ideas about it … Why not just screw the aprons to the leg. That should hold it in place. For attaching the top, use a dowel in top of the leg, and since there appears to be a square on top of the cabinets, why not just put a corresponding square on the bottom of the top to fit in the cabinet square. This will hold the top from moving. It only needs to stop from shifting. not hold it attached to the base in case it is lifted -- that won't happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nginear Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 If you are the one building the back leg, could you make a through tenon on the top and a matching hole in the center portion in the back? Similar to what is shown on this stool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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