Knotty pine tung and grove question

[Bowyer75102]

I am planning on putting this on the wall and don't know if I should just butt the ends or bevel and overlap.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

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[Tpt life]

It’s pine, no need to bevel as you are imitating a simpler historical context. A common idea is roofers felt paper behind so that any shrinkage only shows dark shadow. If you think it may ever be painted down the road, I would flip that advice and bevel. 

[Wimayo]

If I may add my 2 cents worth regarding bevel or scarf joints: I son't generally like them unless they can be glued and installed in such a way that will help prevent them from opening up. Unglued and unsupported, they will open up either through shrinkage or warpage. When that happens, the sharp edge of the bevel cut is exposed and can be a minor hazard for shagging clothing and/or flesh. The delicate sharp edge may also split and/or break and become visual issue. I'm agreeing with C Shaffer in that the main purpose of a scarf joint is to make the two joined pieces look as one. This is particularly important if they are painted. While a butt joint may open up with shrinkage or warpage, this will not be as visually objectionable, particularly if it is mounted against a dark background.

[Bowyer75102]

Thanks for the input fellows!

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[Pondhockey]

just curious, why bevel, rather than (say) half lap?

[Tpt life]

If you fasten a bevel properly, the pieces slide under expansion/contraction and never leave that gap. Half lap on board ends is never done in my experience. 

[Pondhockey]

On 4/24/2018 at 3:46 AM, C Shaffer said:

If you fasten a bevel properly, the pieces slide under expansion/contraction and never leave that gap. Half lap on board ends is never done in my experience. 

Thanks.