wdwerker Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 Its a lot of extra work but you won't start cutting corners now ! It takes a great deal of focus and some test/ practice to figure out the procedure you are going to follow then work your way through all 24 drawers. The thing I find intimidating is sequence matched fronts means at least 4 fronts to redo if a mistake ruins a front. I always try to have an extra section of matching wood as a precaution if possible. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted June 13, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 1 hour ago, RichardA said: You're making my head explode. I wanted to say this. This has been a fascinating build to watch. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted June 13, 2018 Report Share Posted June 13, 2018 2 hours ago, wdwerker said: Its a lot of extra work but you won't start cutting corners now ! It takes a great deal of focus and some test/ practice to figure out the procedure you are going to follow then work your way through all 24 drawers. The thing I find intimidating is sequence matched fronts means at least 4 fronts to redo if a mistake ruins a front. I always try to have an extra section of matching wood as a precaution if possible. He has the grain beautifully matched on those drawer fronts. Pray there's no errors. Starting again would be a beach. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 Thanks for explaining that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted June 19, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 This is just a taste of what I will be doing for a few more weekends. A bench shot for those that like to see how others work ... Below I have a few shots of the dovetailing (again). These are more to show specific strategies used, rather than dovetailing as a procedure. The drawer fronts are moved a couple of mm past the front of the drawer blades, and marked all round ... In an early post I showed how a bevel was formed on the drawer front to create a square junction with the drawer side. The bevel is seen below the blue tape ... The ends of the drawer front angle, and it is not possible to use a jig to align it with a side. I never do this anyway, and simply use a wide chisel ... It's a bit of a balancing act, but the blue tape acts like a non slip, and the knife only has to make one cutting stroke to sever the layer of tape. This reduces the chance of movement and error ... The kerfs are sawn, and then deepened with a kerfing chisel. Note that the ends of the board are supported by a clamp to prevent splitting ... Rather than chop out the waste, I used a trim router to remove move of it. This saved a lot of time ... When removing the remaining waste, I found that the thinner blades of the Blue Spruce "dovetail" chisels worked best to pare away thin slices to the line.. The Blue Spruce fishtail chisel is my favourite for clearing the corners of sockets ... The completed socket .. I counted on the parts going together off the saw, that is, no fine tuning for a fit. There is just not enough time for correcting the fit. This was the last drawer for the weekend. Much the same as the others. Just pushed together - no clean up ... This was the first row, shown here to get a better view of the design ... This is two rows - of drawers dovetailed on one corner only. And these twelve required an average of 1 hour each to complete ... The next weekend should see the remaining drawers complete this dovetailed end. I am hoping that I shall find a way to speed the time taken for dovetailing, but I am estimating that it will require a further 3 weekends to complete the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted June 19, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Really great description and photos of your technique. Your talent and patiences to do the same thing for three weekends is way beyond anything I would want to do, my hats of to you. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 I love it!. Very impressive. And the extra effort made for those of us to see. With a presentation one would expect from a high priced book. Are you published? If not you could be. Thanks for sharing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Published? Do you mean books? If so, no. I have featured in several magazines, such as Fine Woodworking, Popular Woodworking, and the Australian Wood Review, both for furniture and tool building, and have a website. None of this means that much these days. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Thanks for sharing Derek! Progress looks awesome and I learn something for almost all off your posts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Derek, do you clamp a support block next to those pin boards to help the router stay level while wasting out the tail sockets? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 2 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: Derek, do you clamp a support block next to those pin boards to help the router stay level while wasting out the tail sockets? No. I just white-knuckle it! The issue is that the side of the board is angled, and this makes it difficult to create a support platform. It is more of an issue laterally. The depth can be controlled with a fence I built on the router. So I hold the router very carefully to ensure that it does not drop to one side. Fortunately it is light and small. So far there has not been a mishap (touch wood)! Regards from Perth Derek 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 You’ve almost taken the fun out of this. So much detail! Love it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 Books or magazines. You are published. Some offerings are not worthy, I agree. Your work along with the presentation righteously should be shared. From my point of view, what you offer is a gift. Thank you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 Next time, don't hold back on the design just to make the piece easier to build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post derekcohen Posted June 20, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 4 minutes ago, Tom King said: Next time, don't hold back on the design to make it easier to build. Sorry Tom ... Regards from Perth Derek 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 I made a not-so-short video this weekend. I do not recommend watching it late at night, unless you are seeking a cure for your insomnia. This is the first time I have done anything like this - I thought it would be a good challenge. I do hope that you get something from it. There are a number of techniques that I demonstrate that may be new to you. Regards from PerthDerek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Derek thanks for sharing! Definitely clarified a few things for me. I was trying to figure out how you were using the blue tape as a stop for marking thinking it would be difficult to get it straight but cutting it with the marking gauge cleared that right up. I also like your use of the clamp prior to using the kerfing tool I have had them blowout before so I will be stealing that one. I do have one question what is the hinged piece on your moxon vise for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 There are details of the Moxon vise mods here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/ModsfortheMoxon.html Regards from Perth Derek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted July 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 All the drawer fronts have been dovetailed. I spent some time preparing the drawer bottoms and drawer backs for next weekend.Here is a very short video to illustrate the angles involved in the dovetailing ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh4_iCVjyhU&feature=youtu.beRegards from PerthDerek 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RichardA Posted July 2, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 I think that you are trying to drive me to drink! No need, I can do that blindfolded. But your work is excellent and it does make the drive faster. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 I was going to try hand cut dovetails, but not now excellent work Derek, thats an awesome piece, thanks for taking us along. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 5 minutes ago, treeslayer said: I was going to try hand cut dovetails, but not now excellent work Derek, thats an awesome piece, thanks for taking us along. That example just makes box joints so much easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted July 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Here are a few more videos to illustrate some of the strategies that were used. These precede the video presented earlier:Rebating the pin board ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rft-mY_4JL0Preparing the sockets ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WnCX08eTX0&feature=youtu.beClearing the sockets ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUFUGYsG-t0Regards from PerthDerek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Having completed the dovetailing of the drawer sides into the drawer fronts, the next step is to shape the outside bow to match the chest. This is the drawer to be demonstrated ... The drawer blade has been removed, and receives a final tweaking to match a template. Every drawer blade receives the same treatment, and there is a template for each vertical row ... The drawer blade is returned to the chest, the drawer is fitted, and the profile of the drawer front is traced ... Below, the markings may be seen on the drawer front ... The drawer is pulled apart. The grooves for the drawer bottom have been completed. The drawer sides received a 3mm deep groove, while the groove for the drawer front is about 8-9mm deep. The extra depth here is to allow for the inner curve to be later shaped, and that this will remove approximately 3-4mm at the centre. Now the end of the drawer front is marked ... Blue tape is added, and the excess removed ... The tape is added to the upper and lower faces, and the template (from the drawer blade) is now used to mark the curve ... Once removed, the cut lines stand out clearly ... The rasping may begin. A start is made with a Shinto, which has roughly 10 grain on the coarse side (this is a Japanese rasp made from hacksaw blades. The other side is about 14 grain). In turn, after the 10 grain comes the fine side of the Shinto, and then a 13 grain Auriou followed by a second cut file. The surface is refined with a scraper ... ... and 120/22/320 Abranet mesh. You will ask why sand after scraping? The reason is that the sanding removes any scratches left by the rasps and scraper, creating a uniform surface. The final result is fairly polished. It is possible that I may go over this with a cabinet scraper prior to finish ... This completes the drawer at this stage. The rear of the drawer front will next receive a complimentary curve. I hope to get to this during the week ... The run out from cutting away the ends of the boards is noticeable (to me at any rate) ... Regards from Perth Derek 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 It looks fantastic. The run out is noticeable but it still maintains some cohesion and still looks great. There are some boards that look like they handled the run out better than others. Having now done this and experienced how the grain change from run out would you make different board choices the 2nd time around? The middle 2 rows are the only ones that appear to have changed substantially as far as grain continuity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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