Shaker Table, the Prototype


wnaziri

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I agree. Big fan of Kyle Toth. I love his routed ebonized veneer tables and boxes. He must have tremendous patience and a very strong back to be able to do that for hours on end - not to mention a steady hand. 

Being somewhat older :lol: and much less patient, I'm planning on doing some tests on the CNC to get a similar effect.

 

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For the "tablecloth" table, I intend to use birdseye maple as the primary wood.  I just finished making the banding that I will be using.  The banding is wenge sandwiched between strips of holy and black veneer.  Here is how it turned out.

IMG_5823.thumb.jpg.a212be43fba03bbd190c36601c12c215.jpg

The strip is 3/4 inch wide and 1/16 thick.  It actually turned out pretty nice.

I am having a hard time deciding on what lumber species to use for the middle section of the table, the part that conveys the sense of cloth that is draped on top and it extends below table surface at 90 degrees at the two ends.  I would love to use an amazing piece of lumber that I have but it is Purpleheart!!!  I am not a fan of the purpleheart.  If I can stomach it for about 6 months to a year, it will then turn a beautiful maroon color.  This piece has flame figure and check it out:

IMG_5567.jpg.2173cf5d4ae950360cf96a225c0143d6.jpg

I have not made my final decision yet.  I will keep playing some idea over the next few days to weeks.  If I make it and my wife and I are not loving it, my daughter would love to take it.  She loves the color purple.  Who knows, I may end up making a second (very expensive) prototype.

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4 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

Your prototype looks better than my finished products! Very nice, I can't wait to see how the "tablecloth" version turns out.

BTW, what is your local cost for sapele, as compared to walnut, for example? I'd like to work with sapele, but haven't run across an local supply so far.

Thanks. 

I bought the sapele through an auction so I can not comment of the price.  I bought about100 bf of 8/4 prime sapele, with max length of 4 feet, for about $180.  I have used it for several projects so far and I am about to deplete my supply.  I really like the look of the quarter sawn sapele.  However, it is not easy to work with.  I have pretty sharp planes but this stuff will get tear out easily.  It works really well with a spiral cutterhead planer / jointer.  Sapele color does change with time and from what I have observed, the color gets a greenish tint and, to me, it is not pleasing.  It does not have the warm look of aged genuine mahogany.

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10 hours ago, wnaziri said:

I am having a hard time deciding on what lumber species to use for the middle section of the table, the part that conveys the sense of cloth that is draped on top and it extends below table surface at 90 degrees at the two ends.  I would love to use an amazing piece of lumber that I have but it is Purpleheart!!!  I am not a fan of the purpleheart.  If I can stomach it for about 6 months to a year, it will then turn a beautiful maroon color.  This piece has flame figure and check it out:

 

I have not made my final decision yet.  I will keep playing some idea over the next few days to weeks.  If I make it and my wife and I are not loving it, my daughter would love to take it.  She loves the color purple.  Who knows, I may end up making a second (very expensive) prototype.

I wonder if, just prior to applying the finish, putting the piece in the sun for a day or 2 would hasten the color change. It is a spectacular board. I've seen silk fabric that has that look.

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3 minutes ago, drzaius said:

I wonder if, just prior to applying the finish, putting the piece in the sun for a day or 2 would hasten the color change. It is a spectacular board. I've seen silk fabric that has that look.

You nailed it!

The shimmer on the piece reminds one of silk cloth. 

I love the idea of pre-exposure to change the color.  From what I understand, purpleheart color change is not so much UV exposure.  It supposedly changes color due to oxidation.  Anyone have a spare hyperbaric chamber I can use?

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Good opportunity to experiment with mild acid or basic solutions. Each can have very marked effect on wood coloration. Try some vinegar, houshold ammonia, or diluted sodium hydroxide (lye) drain cleaner. Lye produces some very rich color in the oak, walnut, mulberry and cherry I have experimented with, and it penetrats a bit, light sanding doesn't damage the color. Some suggest netralizing the lye with a vinegar wash, but IMO, just letting the lye solution dry on the wood 'uses up' its reactivity.

If using drain cleaner crystals as the source for lye, I dilute to no more than 1/2 the strength recommended for cleaning drains.

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