curlyoak Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 I have a project to make a walnut top. I have 2 pieces from a flitch with a live edge on either side. The challenge is to clamp the joint and protect the live edge. I was thinking about gluing on the surface temporary wood blocks for clamping then remove and sand it out, There must be a better way. Any ideas? Thanks. Maybe C clamp 1 x 2's on each edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Maybe some pocket screws from underneath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 If the joints are good, you don't need a lot of clamping pressure. I've used foam softeners in the past with success to protect the edge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnDi Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Trace the shape of the piece where you will be clamping and use a jig saw to cut the shape on to a square piece of stock. Use the flat edge of the stock to keep your clamps square. a bit of a PITA but gives you equal clamping pressure all along the glue joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 C-clamping a 2x4 along the live edge to provide clamping surface should work, but be sure to sandwich each slab with a 2x on top and bottom. Using such a clamping block offsets the force from the plane of the board, and will try to fold it at the joint if you don't clamp from both sides evenly. As stated above, if the joint is well-fitted, you won't need a huge amount of clamping force. The simple, old-fasioned way would be to use these: https://www.amazon.com/Clamps-Pinch-10-Piece-Woodworking-Gluing/dp/B079VTBWY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528814418&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pinch+dogs&psc=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Thank you for your replies. I will use 1 x 4's c clamped on. On several occasions on this site people have said just like Kev and wtnhighlander that light pressure is all that is needed with a well made joint. I have never done that. I looked up the titebond site and they recommend 200 to 300 psi on the clamps for hardwoods. less for soft. I have made light pressure joints using epoxy. That worked. But never with titebond. I never had a failure with reasonable pressure. And the brand recommends it. The pinch clamps would make holes on the end of the boards... The stock is 5/4 dressed to an inch. Plus 3/4" for the 1x4's on top only. 1 3/4" total. My clamps will have a good angle and won't buckle. Plus there will be clamps on top and bottom. And the goal of protecting the live edge is met. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted June 12, 2018 Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Another option is getting a square foot of medium high density foam. A piece cut and taped to your clamp head should protect it and not have anything to same out after 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Another question on the live edge. What is the best way to clean it up and make it ready for varnish? I was thinking a wire brush? Thanks for any thoughts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 46 minutes ago, curlyoak said: Another question on the live edge. What is the best way to clean it up and make it ready for varnish? I was thinking a wire brush? Thanks for any thoughts... IMO, the best way to clean up a live edge for finishing is with a tablesaw and jointer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 I was live edge gung-ho for a period of time. I made a live edge coffee table and in the rooms that it lives, it looks great. I even wanted to do a live edge waterfall table but got out of that stage of my life before doing so. I still think they look good when others do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 1 hour ago, curlyoak said: Another question on the live edge. What is the best way to clean it up and make it ready for varnish? I was thinking a wire brush? Thanks for any thoughts... I clean them up with a wire brush on my drill. From there, I always epoxy the live edge lightly just to keep any little bits from coming off and then finish the entire slab including that live edge. I've done quite a few of them (personal and commissioned) and never had an issue with that process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 If you ever need to glue a block for clamping put a piece of newspaper or copy paper in the joint w glue on both sides, thin coat . After you are done with it you tap a chisel at the seam . The paper will split down the middle and a card scraper will clean up any residue. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 Great tip Steve! Thanks, I will use that here if clamping on a 1 x 4 fails...Otherwise I will remember the paper idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 The paper glue joint trick also works to mount a sacrificial block to faceplate turnings if you don't have a multi jaw chuck. Screws that go slightly into the bottom of the bowl improves being able to survive a big tool catch when roughing. I remember a bowl that came off the lathe and flew clear across the high school shop then exploded when it hit the concrete block wall. Everyone used screws w the glue/paper joint after that. Clean newsprint paper like they sell for packing/ moving works best. Used newspaper ink is a little harder to clean up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catco Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 On 6/19/2018 at 9:13 PM, wdwerker said: If you ever need to glue a block for clamping put a piece of newspaper or copy paper in the joint w glue on both sides, thin coat . After you are done with it you tap a chisel at the seam . The paper will split down the middle and a card scraper will clean up any residue. Newspaper? What's that? It that like a iPad app? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 It's analog ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denette Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 On 6/19/2018 at 6:02 PM, curlyoak said: Another question on the live edge. What is the best way to clean it up and make it ready for varnish? I was thinking a wire brush? Thanks for any thoughts... I’ve always used steel wool, but that’s because I’m lazy and don’t want to go buy a wire brush (and always forget I need one while I’m at the store). I’ve heard that sandblasting can be a good option, too, if you don’t overdo it and have the equipment for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 On 6/20/2018 at 11:13 AM, wdwerker said: If you ever need to glue a block for clamping put a piece of newspaper or copy paper in the joint w glue on both sides, thin coat . After you are done with it you tap a chisel at the seam . The paper will split down the middle and a card scraper will clean up any residue. This also works if you want to turn something and then split it in half to have symmetrical pieces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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