Arts and Craft Sideboard


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I thought I would drop a few more pictures in here now that it is in the house and in use.  A few points of mild interest - I used plans for this form Fine Woodworking Magazine, the plans came wi

I am starting a new project.  Its an Arts & Craft sideboard that was a project in Fine Woodworking back in 2015 done by Gregory Paolini. At first I had opened to the group here a convers

Last few things... First off,  in case any of you were wondering, this is why you need the systainers that your Festool gear comes with.  They're not for storing the tools.  The pulls h

Posted Images

6 minutes ago, Chet said:

And everyone here. ;)

True. And hopefully you aren't like me- the first thing I do when showing a completed project to my wife or other family members is point out all of the mistakes I made.

Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, AnonymousAccountant said:

point out all of the mistakes I made.

I got away from doing this quite a while ago.  But like Paul said I post them here for the "learn and grow" factor.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm enjoying this build. Do you mark your gauges to keep up with which one is which?

Nice job on the leg veneering. I did something similar on the Morris chair I just completed. I used a slightly different technique. It looks like you did two opposing faces, then the other two. I did one, trimming the overlap on just one edge, but leaving it on the other edge to butt against with my next face, working my way around like that. Takes more time but I had such limited material to work with that I had to maximize every little bit. I was really happy with the book matched result.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Mick S said:

Do you mark your gauges to keep up with which one is which?

Normally, but today there was enough difference between them not to have to.  I could of just used two, layout the centered mortises and then changed them to do the off set mortise, but I wanted to leave the squares set up in case I messed up a leg with the routing and needed to lay out another one.

 

9 minutes ago, Mick S said:

It looks like you did two opposing faces, then the other two.

I only veneered two opposing faces.  I laminated three pieces that were 2" wide X 3/4" thick, this gave me 2  1/4" thickness in one direction.  Then I placed the 1/4" thick veneer to cover the glue lines of the first glue up, that gave me 2 1/4" thickness in the other direction and then chamfered the edges to hide the veneer glue line.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah - missed that. Pays to read the text, not just look at the pretty pictures.

However, in paying closer attention I might offer one suggestion that may minimize the slipping alignment problem you ran into. I used a similar technique on a floating table I did a couple of years ago. Rather than stacking the legs veneer face to veneer face, put two layers of waxed paper between the veneer layers. The slippage will be between the layers rather than putting pressure on the veneers and causing them to slip.

Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, Mick S said:

Rather than stacking the legs veneer face to veneer face, put two layers of waxed paper between the veneer layers. The slippage will be between the layers rather than putting pressure on the veneers and causing them to slip.

Thanks, I will have to remember that.  I always have wax paper in the shop anyway

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ..Kev said:

I think Marc did that wrapping thing recently for a class he's going to go teach..

That's where I saw it.

 

38 minutes ago, pkinneb said:

Btw that is the nicest sacrificial fence I have ever seen

When I needed to make it I had a nice chunk of red oak just sitting around doing nothing.

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Loving this project! I'm seeing clean lines and cherry. I love both of them. This design would also look great with those raised panels that just have a very small gap? Groove? I don't know what you'd call it.

I had all my morris chair parts sitting around for months unwrapped. I provided good air flow around them and they never moved. If you start with stable wood i don't see why it's going to change it's mind and not be stable. Also if it's that big of a worry, and for in marc's case where they were unsuported, wouldn't you want to find out if it moves before you complete? That way you could remake said trouble part. For marc his boards made the top and were un supported and dropped in. I don't know it just seems like one of those overreaction internet things, like wearing 2 belts and 3 suspenders.

Also after you unwrap them what's stopping the sudden humidity change from making the part move more than if it was subject to a slow humidity change?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.