JohnG Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Been looking your build over again. You do some really nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Looks great Chet!! You do nice clean work I like it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Coming along very nicely Chet. I like your drawer construction. Your loss on the Blum slides is my gain as maybe I can get some pointers from you on the wood runners. I have kind of backed myself into a corner and am curious as to how you will attach the runners to your case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 12 hours ago, K Cooper said: Your loss on the Blum slides I wouldn't consider it a loss, it just pushed me back to my original think or plan for the drawers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Chet Posted August 14, 2018 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 One of the first things I did was change the panels in the doors to something with straighter grain and I am real please with the change. A dry fit of everything but the breadboard ends on the top and hinge strips. The drawers are a piston fit with a 1/16 inch clearance all the way around so I used a a bottom runner just to keep them aligned when you open and close the drawer. Just a runner down the center of the drawer case and two in the bottom of the drawer. I taped the center one to the bottom of the drawer then with a double thickness of paper as a spacer I screwed the two outer ones in place in on the bottom of the drawer. I took the center piece and using double stick tape, placed it on the center line in the drawer case then put the drawer in place and carefully pushed it closed keeping it centered by using a 1/16 inch shim on both sides. Once it was closed and flush with the front, I pushed it back out just enough to get a spring clamp on the back end of the slide and then drill and screwed it in place. After this removed the drawer and drilled and screwed the front in place. By doing it like this it allows the center runner to self adjust as you close the drawer. As you can see the first screw snapped of so I had to drill a second hole and I will just plug and sand the first. This process was made easy by the fact that I had the drawer case (circled in the second picture) just setting on my bench, it hadn't been installed at this point. I needed to drill some shelf pin holes but the jig that I have wouldn't go in the corners far enough, so using the jig as a template and a forstner bit, I took a small, thin piece of scrap and made a smaller jig and taped it in place to drill the holes. First thing I actually did when I went out to the shop was glue up the pieces that make up the top and by now that was dry. I ran it through the drum sander a few times, cut the notches in the corners to go around the back legs then sanded it to 180 and lastly added the breadboard ends. The top is 3/4 inch thick and the breadboard ends are just under 7/8 so it creates a nice shadow line. The grain lines up in the top a lot nice then it looks in the picture. when i finished sanding I wiped it down with a little mineral spirits and it really looked nice if Ido say so myself. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Coming along nicely Chet, fine work sir! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Absolutely well done. I love clean, simple functional pieces that stand the test of time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Looking great, Chet! I'm stealing that drawer alignment technique... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Beautiful job, Chet. Such a nice, clean line design and impeccable execution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 40 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Looking great, Chet! I'm stealing that drawer alignment technique... I already did! I got a sneak preview as I was pondering with directions and Chet was kind enough to share. Really great looking piece bud and thanks for the hints. It will be finished using what? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 1 hour ago, K Cooper said: It will be finished using what? I was leaning toward shellac and spraying High Performance but when I did my media cabinet a while back I really liked the way that Arm R Seal went on and looked when done, so that is my plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Brushed/wiped on or sprayed? H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Wipe on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 How do you get your smoothing plane right up to the edge with those breadboards? Joking. Looks awesome Chet I love the grain on the doors. It's too bad there wasn't a way to use the other ones they weren't bad exactly but didn't look right with the rest of the piece. How in the heck did you get to the back to set the screw on the center runner? It looks like there isn't a ton of space in there to get a spring clamp. I feel like I'm missing something i reread that section about 5 times now. Maybe the 6th time is a charm. 6th time was the charm. Don't worry I'm an engineer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Looks great Chet!! You do nice clean work I like it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belle City WW Posted August 18, 2018 Report Share Posted August 18, 2018 Chet, Your project looks great! You are doing a fantastic job, thanks for sharing the build! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well nothing to really add at this time. It is close to the finish part of the project and have been doing a lot of fit and finish stuff. I do have a question for the group here. Each of the side cabinets has a false bottom in it and in the article by Paolini he says to place but NOT glue the false bottoms ( See Below) Can any one tell me why you wouldn't want to permenently attach this false bottom panel even if it was with some brads or small screws? It also acts as the door stop and it just seems to me that no matter how accurately you cut the piece, because you have to allow to drop it in at an angle, there is going to be play in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 I can’t imagine. Although he suggest using screws without elongated holes, but why would you with ply? Screw it, glue it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 It's not like it's going to get jostled or rattled so, unless there's a "need" to glue it in, there's really no reason. Wood movement isn't really an issue so, guess it's just up to the one making the final decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 I think it's because of the axial forces in the medullary bands. Have to make sure the thrust capacitor don't get over loaded. I won't glue it just in case you damage it and some day want to replace it. I don't know why it would get damaged. That or door adjustment if needed in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 I'm not sure its necessary but I would just use brad nails. It will keep it in place, allow it to move should it ever, and be easily removable should it need to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 What about a drop of CA glue in a couple of the corners? It would keep it from shifting around, but then could easily be popped free if you needed to remove it for any reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 3 hours ago, Chestnut said: I think it's because of the axial forces in the medullary bands. Have to make sure the thrust capacitor don't get over loaded. This was my one concern during the entire build. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 21, 2018 Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 Use space below to hide things ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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