L2090301 Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Hello all, For a 6’ privacy wood fence, inspector told me I had to attach 4x4 end post, to concrete block construction house, so I got 3 of these corner braces. If I attach the braces to the post, first and have to adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular, the braces, on the garage COULD end up NOT tightened flush, against the house, leaving a gap between brace & wall...If that makes sense...? That said, would you attach the corner braces to the post, first OR attach the corner braces, to the house, first? I appreciate your thoughts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 I'd put the middle one in the house first, then the middle one in the post, and finish in any order. Don't tighten the first fastener to the house completely tight to start with. That will allow the bracket to twist a little on the house to fit completely against the post, and you can always whittle a little wood if you need to before the first fastener goes into the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 I would want a uniform gap about the width of a pencil just so bugs don't have a concealed path. Maybe you could attach the braces to the wall then attach the post before you set it with cement / gravel / packed earth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Will the post in fact be anchored in the ground? What is his reasoning for attaching it to the house? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 My preference would be to not attach it to the house either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Ditto.. I've never attached them to the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 20 minutes ago, Tom King said: I'd put the middle one in the house first, then the middle one in the post, and finish in any order. Don't tighten the first fastener to the house completely tight to start with. That will allow the bracket to twist a little on the house to fit completely against the post, and you can always whittle a little wood if you need to before the first fastener goes into the wood. Thanks! I figured attach to house, first might be best but why would you put the middle on first? Appreciate, the tips, on not tightening the first fastener, to the house completely tight to start with as well as the option of whittling a little wood, if needed...I hadn't thought of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Surprised the inspector said attach it. That's uncommon where I live. I agree with the others. Brackets to house first, one screw only. Have someone hold the post in alignment (and the spacer idea is a good one), while you confirm the bracket will work. Attach one screw to the post through one bracket, re-check for plumb, then attach another bracket. After 2 points are attached the post should stay in place while you finish up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 45 minutes ago, wdwerker said: I would want a uniform gap about the width of a pencil just so bugs don't have a concealed path. Maybe you could attach the braces to the wall then attach the post before you set it with cement / gravel / packed earth... 34 minutes ago, K Cooper said: Will the post in fact be anchored in the ground? What is his reasoning for attaching it to the house? Thanks! Uniform gap is the goal, we shall see. Actually, inspector won't require me, to set the post in concrete because 1) Since, code requires a post every 4' and I am 43" oc from next closest post, this post, at house, is considered "decorative". 2) I can't dig down the required 24", due to hitting the foundation of the house, which sticks out. 3) Cast iron main plumbing line, too close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 20 minutes ago, Tom King said: My preference would be to not attach it to the house either. 16 minutes ago, ..Kev said: Ditto.. I've never attached them to the house. My preference, too but... That said, inspector won't let me get away without attaching it to house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 middle fastener first so any twisting of the bracket needed to fit flush against the post will move that bracket the least amount possible from where you first place it. Chances of putting all the fasteners in the house first, and then attaching the post approach zero for getting a good fit against the post. I've built stuff for a living for over 44 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 14 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: Surprised the inspector said attach it. That's uncommon where I live. I agree with the others. Brackets to house first, one screw only. Have someone hold the post in alignment (and the spacer idea is a good one), while you confirm the bracket will work. Attach one screw to the post through one bracket, re-check for plumb, then attach another bracket. After 2 points are attached the post should stay in place while you finish up. Thanks! I was surprised too, until I started digging the hole. Unfortunately, I'm all I have, to count on, so a post level & some clamps will have to do the trick but I appreciate the detailed guidance. That was very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 2 minutes ago, Tom King said: middle fastener first so any twisting of the bracket needed to fit flush against the post will move that bracket the least amount possible from where you first place it. Chances of putting all the fasteners in the house first, and then attaching the post approach zero for getting a good fit against the post. I've built stuff for a living for over 44 years. Great, thanks... That's very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..Kev Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Did they tell you how you had to affix it to the house since it's decorative? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodbutcher74 Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 You might want to primer and paint those brackets before you fasten them to the house or the post. They will rust and you will have stains running down the side of your house. Galvanized brackets might be better. Just a thought. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronn W Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Very strange requirement. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 3 hours ago, ..Kev said: Did they tell you how you had to affix it to the house since it's decorative? All he would tell me is, I had to attach it to the house well enough so he wouldn't be able to push it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 I'm guessing the foundation footing extends out from the walls and prevents you from digging a post hole adjacent. The call that a brick ledge around here. Personally, I would prefer to set the post in the ground as close as I could, then cantelever the cross members and pickets past the post to cover the gap between it and the wall. Shouldn't be more than a couple of feet. In my area, local codes allow quite a few things to be constructed without permits or inspections, provided they do not form, or directly attach to, a dwelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 1 hour ago, woodbutcher74 said: You might want to primer and paint those brackets before you fasten them to the house or the post. They will rust and you will have stains running down the side of your house. Galvanized brackets might be better. Just a thought. Thanks! Braces are Simpson Strong-TieZ-MAX 2 in. x 4 in. 12-Gauge Galvanized Medium L-Angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 34 minutes ago, Ronn W said: Very strange requirement. Good luck. Agreed...Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 16 minutes ago, wtnhighlander said: I'm guessing the foundation footing extends out from the walls and prevents you from digging a post hole adjacent. The call that a brick ledge around here. Personally, I would prefer to set the post in the ground as close as I could, then cantelever the cross members and pickets past the post to cover the gap between it and the wall. Shouldn't be more than a couple of feet. In my area, local codes allow quite a few things to be constructed without permits or inspections, provided they do not form, or directly attach to, a dwelling. Your guess is correct. Hmm? Would you attach cross members to wall? Here, code calls for post every 4' but this is 43" so technically it doesn't require a post but probably too long, in his opinion, to be loose. FWIW: here's the area, I'm working with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 I agree with the others. Drilling into your wall like that will risk creating points of water intrusion into your residence. Are you in a cold climate location? If water gets into those holes and freezes, the block will spall. Don't discount this possibility,. There is also an issue of movement, the fence and residence are on different foundations, and some seasonal movement would be normal. Using slotted or oversized holes with washers on at least one side of the plate would give you some room for that movement. You could ream the holes larger and use washers. No chance you could set this post further out and cantilever the little bit of fencing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Sounds like the inspector just wants it secure enough to be safe. I'd go with the plan not to drill holes in the house, and ask the inspector if that is okay first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted June 30, 2018 Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 Question 1 why do you have a cast iron pipe that shallow? Question 2 why not attach it to the concrete slab? 24" buried and a bracket there will be enough that your inspector shouldn't be able to "push it over". I'd screw a large flat bracket to the post so that it over hangs and then screw the bracket to the concrete kind of like a newel post except on the side. Ask the inspector to prove it. Show me the code dude! I get called on specs all the time. If he complains tell him it's his job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L2090301 Posted June 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2018 1 hour ago, Isaac said: I agree with the others. Drilling into your wall like that will risk creating points of water intrusion into your residence. Are you in a cold climate location? If water gets into those holes and freezes, the block will spall. Don't discount this possibility,. There is also an issue of movement, the fence and residence are on different foundations, and some seasonal movement would be normal. Using slotted or oversized holes with washers on at least one side of the plate would give you some room for that movement. You could ream the holes larger and use washers. No chance you could set this post further out and cantilever the little bit of fencing? Thanks! No, definitely not in a cold climate location...Quite the opposite. Not sure, what you mean by, setting this post further out and cantilever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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