Sapele Sideboard


Geoffrey
 Share

Recommended Posts

Explore the plunge depths possible with each size Domino bit. Some bits will let you plunge 28 mm but they don't sell the tenons in that length.  Whenever I set up to make tenon stock a certain thickness I make widths for all 3 settings in 12" - 24" sticks. Then I can cut whatever length I need at a moments notice. Make plenty from scrap it pays off eventually.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, that's a great idea to prep the stock in multiple widths. I'll have to try that. 

Chestnut, so far I have resisted the 700; the 500 is plenty for me. I have used some of the 700's tenons, though. Before I thought of making my own, I bought some of the 8x100 tenons for a bookcase project where each section of the bookcase has a central upright that divides the shelves into two sections. To keep the shelves aligned, I used the domino to make a through mortise in the upright and the mortises in the shelves for the left and right sections. Then, I used the long domino tenon to run through the central divider and connect the two shelves to each other. It certainly kept the shelves aligned better than I could do if I were using dados. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Geoffrey said:

Steve, that's a great idea to prep the stock in multiple widths. I'll have to try that. 

Chestnut, so far I have resisted the 700; the 500 is plenty for me. I have used some of the 700's tenons, though. Before I thought of making my own, I bought some of the 8x100 tenons for a bookcase project where each section of the bookcase has a central upright that divides the shelves into two sections. To keep the shelves aligned, I used the domino to make a through mortise in the upright and the mortises in the shelves for the left and right sections. Then, I used the long domino tenon to run through the central divider and connect the two shelves to each other. It certainly kept the shelves aligned better than I could do if I were using dados. 

That is an excellent idea! Why didn't i think of that. Some day i might borrow that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/11/2018 at 8:17 PM, Geoffrey said:

But, the pegs will not go through to the top of the breadboard. These peg holes are only on the underside of the breadboard.doors. I still need to finalize where we want the door pull. 

Very much the way I do my breadboards.  Helpful tip that you may already use.  I keep the front peg hole at dimension and not slotted.  I slot the others.  This keeps the front elevations aligned throughout the year and allows expansion to the rear.  You piece is looking great and coming along nicely.  Thanks for sharing the ride.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, gee-dub said:

Very much the way I do my breadboards.  Helpful tip that you may already use.  I keep the front peg hole at dimension and not slotted.  I slot the others.  This keeps the front elevations aligned throughout the year and allows expansion to the rear. 

Gee-dub, I am glad you posted that. Thank you!

I had been planning on locking the center tenon and making slots for the pegs at the outer tenons. After reading your post and thinking about it, I will do as you suggest. The top is quartersawn and only 15" wide. The movement will likely be under 3/8", if that. I'll have plenty of room to allow all the movement to go towards the back and keep the front nicely aligned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
3 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

Very nice ! Sign & date it. Note that it's made of Sapele and a curse on anyone who even thinks of painting over it in the future !

I actually did sign and date the underside of the top. :) I haven't done that before, but I thought I would for this one. At least I'll be able to remember when I made it ten years from now. And you are right about the curse on anyone painting it! :lol:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

I wasn't quite sure what a sideboard was this whole time but now it makes perfect sense in context. It turned out beautiful.  Simple and elegant.

Thank you. This one is a bit long for a sideboard, but it works in that space. It will be holding extra dishes, so we called it a sideboard. :)  For a dining room, Chet's Arts and Crafts sideboard from Fine Woodworking would be a better fit. 

I think the detail in earlier period pieces is amazing, and I doubt I'll ever have the skill to make a piece like that. For making furniture for the house, though, I really like the Arts and Crafts style.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 83 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    30.2k
    Total Topics
    408.2k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    22733
    Total Members
    3644
    Most Online
    John Nalbone
    Newest Member
    John Nalbone
    Joined