Popular Post derekcohen Posted September 2, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 I use both hand- and power tools in making this joint. Generally I decide on one or the other according to my mood, the alignment of the planets, how many joints there are, and and quickly it needs to be done. I was building a coffee table for my son this weekend, and decided to use the power method. Here are photos for your amusement. Mortices are made with a router using a simple jig. I've used a number of jigs over a few decades, and this is by far the best of all . The router fence is captured in a slot at the rear, and the work piece is held below with a couple of clamps. It takes seconds to set up ... In this instance the router uses a 8mm or 5/16" wide mortice using a spiral upcut bit. I will generally cut the mortices first, whether hand- or power. It does not make a lot of difference since both are marked out with a mortice gauge from a reference side. The mortice/tenon is centred (where the design calls for this) by eye. This means that it is not quite centre - but that is fine as long as all markings follow the same reference side. These legs are going to be turned on the lathe, which is why they look a little unusual at this stage. Of relevance here is that the ends of the mortice are squared with a chisel ... I do make a practice tenon to check fit ... Making the tenons involves the table saw and bandsaw. First the shoulders are defined on the table saw ... Set up the blade to the height of the cheek from the reference side (This may or may not - likely not - be the same for the non-reference side. It is not vital). Complete the saw cuts on all four sides (the practice was made this way, and this enabled the length of the mortice to be determined). Next I cut the cheeks on the bandsaw, and return to the table saw, but one could do all the table saw work at the one time. The bandsaw is set up to saw the cheek furthest from the fence. The reference side faces the fence. I have made a few spacers. This one is for a 8mm or 5/16" wide tenon/mortice. The measurement is the width plus the width of the bandsaw blade. Place the spacer against the fence, and saw the other cheek without moving the fence ... You can see that the beauty ends of the tenon still need to be removed. This is where I return to the table saw (as mentioned, this could have been done at the same time as the shoulders). Positioning the mitre fence at the centre of the blade, simply push the tenon across. It should require a single past to remove all the waste ... One cheek on the reference side should be clean at the corner, however the non-reference side is likely to have a little waste remaining ... Simply remove this with a chisel .. It may end the other way, that is, with a slight groove. I really would not be concerned - no one will see this, and it will not detract from the joint's strength. Here is the mating of the mortice and tenon in this build ... Regards from Perth Derek 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treeslayer Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 Thanks for passing this along Derek looks like a nice set up. it always amazes me how many ways there are to do things in the shop, your way is close to the way i do mine but i may have to steal that jig design, nice work sir! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 I like that jig too. I tend to drill out my mortises and follow up with mortise chisels, doing the lion's share of truing by hand. But I've been known to use the old router a time or three as well, for longer grooves with stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pondhockey Posted September 2, 2018 Report Share Posted September 2, 2018 I like any method that produces larger pieces and less dust, which is what I see from your tenoning methods. On the other hand, I seem to get more accurate and square tenons cutting the cheeks on the table saw (might just be my poor bandsaw technique.) Your mortising jig is pretty neat; does the dust collection device work pretty well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2018 PH, dust control is decent. I use a Festool CT26E. The hose was removed for the photo. The router is plugged into the vac for auto switch on. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 Hi Derek. Your methods always have excellent results. I have not cut a mortice in 2 years. I can see a possible need however now I use one of 2 festool dominos cutters. The small mostly cabinet or furniture and the big one for doors mainly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 CO, I have a Festool Domino 500, which I purchased when building a kitchen full of Shaker style frame and panel doors. I have used it for a few other small jobs. In my opinion, it is very far from the standards attainable from a mortice and tenon joint. The latter is more flexible in design, stronger in application, and reversible when repairs are needed. The Domino is like a better biscuit or a better dowel. It has a place, but will never replace traditional mortice and tenon joinery. I simply cannot imagine the world with heirloom furniture joined with dominos. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 I think a mortice and tenon is stronger than dominoes. But the dominoes are strong enough. Under load, the domino joint will break the wood but not the joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekcohen Posted September 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 CO, keep in mind that I am not a longstanding user of the Domino. Others may not experience my frustration. The problem I have with the dominos is that (1) you need to use more than one to get the width to prevent twisting, and (2) the joinery is difficult to unglue, should you need to do so. Regards from Perth Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 Answer for (1) you can make your own dominoes. With your skills and tools it is a no brainer. When you have a need for a specific dimension, mill a piece a foot or 2 long and cut what you need and save the rest. I also will when needed have a few across a long joint. I almost always cut a bigger slot. I see no need. if concealed no need for a perfect fit left to right. It is perfect in thickness and adds to the speed and ease of glue up if side to side play is aloud. 2 I would not like to unglue a mortice joint glued with tite bond 3 either. The large benefit is a lot of time is saved...However it is far beyond me to criticize your exceptional work. It appears your pleasure is partially in the use of hand tools. And I completely understand about feeding a passion. And I admire it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 2 hours ago, derekcohen said: CO, keep in mind that I am not a longstanding user of the Domino. Others may not experience my frustration. The problem I have with the dominos is that (1) you need to use more than one to get the width to prevent twisting, and (2) the joinery is difficult to unglue, should you need to do so. Regards from Perth Derek Question of ignorance and not a challenge. Will hide glue not play well with domino like it does with dowel and traditional tenon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 I still stand by the tool as being a great mortise machine. Buy it leave the dominoes in the store and cut your own tenons the traditional way and it's not much different than using anything else for mortises with the 1 big benefit being it's handheld. Quite a few times i have made a few plunges side by side to get super wide mortises. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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