What Ecopoxy product for crack filling on live edge table


Dave H

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I’m building a live edge coffee table I have a large crack I’ve stabilized the crack with butterfly dutchmen, now I want to fill the crack with an Ecopoxy product. There seems to be several different products casting resins, river table resin I’m just not sure which product to purchase also, do I use the Ecopoxy dye or will another dye work I have Transtint I want black dyed resin? 

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1 hour ago, higtron said:

I’m building a live edge coffee table I have a large crack I’ve stabilized the crack with butterfly dutchmen, now I want to fill the crack with an Ecopoxy product. There seems to be several different products casting resins, river table resin I’m just not sure which product to purchase also, do I use the Ecopoxy dye or will another dye work I have Transtint I want black dyed resin? 

Really depends on if your filling a crack or pouring a river. For small cracks and imperfections I have used MAS and West Systems with trans-tint dye with good results. For more info look at Matt Cremona's YouTube page he has done a lot of video's on both filling cracks and river type tables.

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Ecopoxy has a really long curing time. The good thing about that is that it doesn't heat up much, and can be poured very deep. The down side is that its kind of runny for a good while, so if there is a leak on the back of the spot you fill, you might lose the entire pour. Happened to James Wright (Wood by Wright) on YT.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up using the Ecopoxy liquid plastic product with the Ecopoxy black pigment I've got to say it is different than anything that I've ever worked with. I got started first thing sunday morning by starting a fire in the wood stove in the shop it's been getting down in the 50's at night here I mixed up a 1-1 batch of the epoxy stirred the sh*# out of it scraping the edges and the bottom of the container trying not to get too many bubbles til the cloudiness of the 2 parts looked consistent than stirred some more, added the pigment stirred that in a couple times til I got the look I wanted than stirred some more. I let this set in the container popping the bubbles with my heat gun until the bubbles stopped coming to the surface while pouring the epoxy into the crack of the live edge table  starting at the widest point letting it flow to the the narrowest point, I brought it to level in 5 or 6 lifts until I got the pour to it's level popping the bubbles with the heat gun. I still had a half batch of epoxy left over, now my shop had warmed to about 80 deg. at this point. I would continue to pop bubbles for hours probably 5 hours later  the epoxy level had shrank below the level of the table top maybe a 1/8", the left over epoxy was still in it's original consistency and  was still cool to the touch filled back up to level. About 9:30 pm the level shrank back again the left over epoxy was just getting slightly warm at this point It was still flowing so filled crack again popping bubbles when they showed up. At 11:30 pm  when I checked the progress the epoxy on the table was a putty like constancy it had shrank back  slightly  the container was warmer than before starting to thicken up but still flowing the surface of the crack had a million ity bity bubbles heat gunned them filled above the level one last time waited until midnight every thing was looking good above level bubbles taken care of, the left over epoxy had thickened to the point putty and was warm but not what I would call hot. I went to bed got up this morning the epoxy was not fully set to it's full cure which makes sense it has a 24- 48 hour cure time the container is set hard now I guess I'll mix a small batch and fill the crack one more time as the level is down just a tad. Thanks for all the feed back, oh by the way I thought the epoxy was escaping my tape job there appeared to be a slight amount of oozing under the tape in a couple areas never escaping completely  no bulging or leakage just a slight discoloration under the tape because of the black tint.

 

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