lewisc Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 I'm not thrilled about the current desk I'm using. I built it last year using a simple steel frame and solid timber top but didn't really think about storage and cable management. My current idea for a replacement is a corner desk that has a mitre join connecting the two pieces. If this idea doesn't workout, I'll probably just make a straight desk with the storage on one side. It will have a steel frame (with adjustable feet) and a small cabinet with drawers for supporting the top. The mitre will be cut with a track saw and reinforced with dominos. A couple of questions: Any thoughts on the design? Do you think there will be enough support considering the span of the top and the mitre join? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 The question is about steel, not wood.I would attach the frame on the long run to the wall. Will the long unsupported run of the steel be rigid? Can't answer that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Sagulator says if you used a 30 x 30 hardwood strip to stiffen/ support under the top it would hold a 60 kilo load in the center. I figured hard maple using your dimensions. They don't have a option for steel support. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/. It takes a little playing with it to figure out how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Lewis, do you weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisc Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 I can weld - not great but much better after a few years of practice. The frame will be rigid - I can add a few pieces going from front to back under the top. It's the mitre join that I've never done before so that's got me thinking about what will support it from underneath. The sagulator seems like a good app to play with - I'll give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Use plenty of 10 mm Dominos spaced every 100 -150 mm and plenty of glue. Tracksaw is how I would cut the miter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curlyoak Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 If you don't have a track saw, cut it close to the line, an eighth or less. Cut to the line with a router, and a straight edge and proper bit. Then Dominoes as first choice. Or mill a matching groove in both edges and mill hardwood so the grain runs across the joint. Several pieces. To clamp the joint you could screw on blocks on the bottom . Will this be screwed to the wall? The biggest risk to failure is the steel that runs long in the middle. Perhaps beef that up if needed? With the steel firm a proper made mitre will be fine. The steel must make even contact all the way around. The target is to make the top and the steel flat and matched up. You could add a glued on strip on the bottom around the perimeter to beef up the look and add strength... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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