Avoiding Tear Out While Routing Curves

[Leaseman]

I'm rounding the edges on some table legs and have potential tear out problem. This is my first time making curved pieces and I'm coming to realize it presents some tear out issues that I've not faced before. Routing from "A" down (going down the curve) shouldn't be a problem assuming the direction of the router bit is going it's proper direction. But what about going "up" the curve going toward "B"? As you can see the grain direction, this could cause major tear out. Any recommendations on how to approach this.

 

[treeslayer]

How much of a round over are you planning on using, 1/4”, 3/8, 1/2 ? Personally I don’t see much of an issue eapically on a curve that slight. take shallow passes until you get the depth you want, sharp clean bit will help. 

[Chestnut]

Oh! Roundover ... well the 3 paragraphs i just typed are pointless.

Depending on how big the round over is you could if you have a large enough work piece and a good enough grip, do a climb cut. Any round over over 1/4" and  any smaller work pieces this will get dangerous fast. Other wise you can slowly increase the depth of cut or do an initial pass trying to hold the bearing away from the wood and then do a clean up pass. Practice climb cuts on a nice BIG work piece if you've never done them. I hesitate to even suggest the type of cut but hen you can't swap feed directions you have two options varying depth of cut and climb cutting. Varying depth of cut isn't a 100% solution either but it's a heck of a lot safer. Going just barley fast enough to not burn also helps. Faster feed rates will increase chip out.

[gee-dub]

You are speaking of "routing downhill" which is always preferred but, not always practical.  I use these for doing roundovers downhill on really catchy, fibrous stuff like shedua.  It is designed for double roundovers and I do that as well but, that's another discussion.

In your example you would prefer to route down from A toward B and vice versa meeting in the middle.  On a soft wood like you show, a sharp quality bit should have no trouble.  If you are doing larger radii like 3/8" or more, some alternate bearings to allow you to step into the full depth can help.  Climb cutting (routing the "wrong" way) is also an option but, a sharp bit, small bites and a good grip on your router and your stock is recommended.

[Leaseman]

I was going to use a 1/2" round over bit. After hearing your advice what I might do is start with a 1/4" bit first and then do a second pass with the 1/2". Sort of a controlled "small bits" approach. Does this sound like a good idea?

[wdwerker]

Climb cutting is a sphincter tightening experience but if you take shallow cuts it works well when grain direction keeps changing.

Starting w a smaller bit should work too. It's taking small cuts & slowing way down in those tricky areas that's important . If the bit burns the wood your going too slow. 

[gee-dub]

7 hours ago, Leaseman said:

I was going to use a 1/2" round over bit. After hearing your advice what I might do is start with a 1/4" bit first and then do a second pass with the 1/2". Sort of a controlled "small bits" approach. Does this sound like a good idea?

IMHO, yes.  Especially if you are hand routing.

Side note; this is a good argument for a nice rabbet set from the same maker as your other bits.  The bearings come in handy.  Another tip is that when you move to your final bit size, run a length of tape along the surface where the bearing will ride.  This makes you cut a tiny bit under the actual depth.  Then pull the tape and take the last fine cut leaving a nice clean profile.