Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 I've got a problem and hoping someone has a suggestion. I am trying to get the MT2 arbor out of this chuck and it's stuck. I have recently had the chuck and arbor apart so I know how the parts come together. I have tried to knock the arbor out of the chuck at first with the gentle taps that sufficed in the past and have now graduated to multiple forcefull blows. I have tried penetrating oil and WD40 and have now puddled some penetrating oil on top and left it to sit overnight. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Over night soak with penetrating oil and no joy. I've tried pressing it out with clamps and no luck. Looking for replacement 3/8" chuck and MT2 arbor. I checked McMaster-Carr and they have keyless chucks but for $200+, arbor sold separately. Grizzly is way cheaper, and it's Grizzly. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minnesota Steve Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Are you using wedges? Maybe freezing spray on the arbor to shrink it slightly? https://www.crcindustries.com/products/freeze-off-174-super-penetrant-11-5-wt-oz-05002.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 I don't have the wedges and not thinking that's a True Value or Woodcraft item. I could see if the auto store has the freeze spray. It should just be a light tap through the chuck and the arbor pops out, but here is my latest attempt: That's clamped as hard as I can with two hands. And I've doused the chuck with Liquid Wrench and tapped it repeatedly every where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Bigger hammer, or find someone with a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Good ideas, both, but still no joy. I don't suppose Big Mike could come over. Honestly I am so exasperated I would ship this thing to Hawaii if I could find the address of that volcano! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 All Right @Tom King I owe you a big fat... ahhh... handshake! After the last message I was just lookin' at that thing and I said screw it, Tom said hit it, hell I'm gonna break the d*** thing. At least I'll get the satisfaction of smashing it. And kapow the arbor came out. Took that much wallop. I don't see any obvious explanation for it being stuck. No obvious grit or foreign material (of course now it's covered with oil). Some light scratches, but mostly circumferential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 I think the Lervad bench has too much lost motion. I won't want to hit anything like that on mine hard enough to knock it loose. I would just lay it on some towels on the floor, and get a good swing with a 2 pound hammer I typed mine while you were typing yours. I hope you didn't damage the rods in the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 As a brass instrument half tech, (not fully qualified through course work) sometimes it is not the bashing but the resonance through repeated blows that loosens items. Thousands of light taps to dozens of heavier slower taps can find a sweet spot at times. Glad the bash worked this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Late to the party again but, I was going to suggest heat...in the form of an oven. I know it works with steel and aluminum and I really don't know about steel and steel but, I thought it would be worth a try. I used to put aluminum engine cases (two cycle engine) in the oven turn it on (with room for the bearings to drop out) and just sit and drink beer until I heard "tink-tink" . They would drop at about 400 to 500 degrees. Beating the bearings out with hammer and punch is a sure way to destroy an engine case. And, if you had planned ahead and put the new bearings in the freezer, you could lift the case half out with pliers, lay it on a concrete floor and drop the frozen bearing into it and wait for it to cool to room temp. Viola ! The new bearings were locked in place with no hassle and a few beers to celebrate with ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 When I was an early teenager, we did the freezer trick when putting new cylinder sleeves in an old Allis-Chalmers tractor engine, and after that, the pistons went in the freezer too. We didn't have many fancy, specialized tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Tom King said: I think the Lervad bench has too much lost motion. I won't want to hit anything like that on mine hard enough to knock it loose. I would just lay it on some towels on the floor, and get a good swing with a 2 pound hammer I typed mine while you were typing yours. I hope you didn't damage the rods in the bench. Nope all's good with the Lervad, I think the wooden clamp helped distribute the load. But thanks for mentioning that and for recognizing the bench. It was a graduation gift from my father many decades ago so I should treat it with respect. On the other hand it is a workbench. I probably should not mention this, but I was originally pounding on the cast iron table of the brand new drill press--not one of my brighter moments. Did not know that about resonant frequency. I was tapping all over, but I should have played some Christmas carols or a drum solo. And oven or not, I think I still qualify for a beer. So here's this remaining question, if I want to get my own replacement chuck and arbor (and I never want to go through this again) should I pony up for the McMaster-Carr chuck or just buy something like Grizzly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Bob Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 I have a Grizzly chuck for my lathe, no issues. But what is wrong with yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 The chuck body wobles visibly when spinning. Although run out at the bit is only 3 thousandths I'm not keeping it. The company did send out a replacement chuck but no arbor. The replacement is a different model, and while the original had an open bottom that allowed me to use a steel pin to knock it out (when enough wham was applied) the new chuck only has a 1/8 hole in it's bottom and no pin that diameter is ever going to knock out a stuck arbor. I know the drill spindle is good--no measurable run out. So at this point I just want to get a good arbor and chuck, maybe keyless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 The only replacement chucks I've ever used for anything are Jacobs. I haven't kept up with that company, but if they are still made as good as they used to be, there is no need for anything "better". I was just looking on Zoro for something else, and also checked on their chuck selection. It looks pretty complete, and there are other choices that might even be better than Jacobs, now made in Taiwan. If you sign up for Zoro emails, you get at least a 15% discount, and free shipping above minimum order anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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