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I've got a problem and hoping someone has a suggestion.

I am trying to get the MT2 arbor out of this chuck and it's stuck.  I have recently had the chuck and arbor apart so I know how the parts come together.  I have tried to knock the arbor out of the chuck at first with the gentle taps that sufficed in the past and have now graduated to multiple forcefull blows.  I have tried penetrating oil and WD40 and have now puddled some penetrating oil on top and left it to sit overnight.  

Any other ideas?

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Over night soak with penetrating oil and no joy.  I've tried pressing it out with clamps and no luck.

Looking for replacement 3/8" chuck and MT2 arbor.  I checked McMaster-Carr and they have keyless chucks but for $200+, arbor sold separately.  Grizzly is way cheaper, and it's Grizzly.

Any thoughts?

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I don't have the wedges and not thinking that's a True Value or Woodcraft item.  I could see if the auto store has the freeze spray.

It should just be a light tap through the chuck and the arbor pops out, but here is my latest attempt:

20181118_122439.thumb.jpg.4c593778ade774448fdf85a271e47e33.jpg

That's clamped as hard as I can with two hands.  And I've doused the chuck with Liquid Wrench and tapped it repeatedly every where.  

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All Right @Tom King I owe you a big fat... ahhh... handshake!  

20181118_145615.thumb.jpg.e0166208f75302285c1bf741e4d531e9.jpg

After the last message I was just lookin' at that thing and I said screw it, Tom said hit it, hell I'm gonna break the d*** thing.  At least I'll get the satisfaction of smashing it.  And kapow the arbor came out.  Took that much wallop.

I don't see any obvious explanation for it being stuck.  No obvious grit or foreign material (of course now it's covered with oil).  Some light scratches, but mostly circumferential.  

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I think the Lervad bench has too much lost motion.   I won't want to hit anything like that on mine hard enough to knock it loose.   I would just lay it on some towels on the floor, and get a good swing with a 2 pound hammer

I typed mine while you were typing yours.   I hope you didn't damage the rods in the bench.

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As a brass instrument half tech, (not fully qualified through course work) sometimes it is not the bashing but the resonance through repeated blows that loosens items. Thousands of light taps to dozens of heavier slower taps can find a sweet spot at times. Glad the bash worked this time. 

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Late to the party again but, I was going to suggest heat...in the form of an oven. 

I know it works with steel and aluminum and I really don't know about steel and steel but, I thought it would be worth a try. 

I used to put aluminum engine cases (two cycle engine) in the oven turn it on (with room for the bearings to drop out) and just sit and drink beer until I heard "tink-tink" .  They would drop at about 400 to 500 degrees.  Beating the bearings out with hammer and punch is a sure way to destroy an engine case.

And, if you had planned ahead and put the new bearings in the freezer, you could lift the case half out with pliers, lay it on a concrete floor and drop the frozen bearing into it and wait for it to cool to room temp. Viola ! The new bearings were locked in place with no hassle and a few beers to celebrate with ! :)

 

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1 hour ago, Tom King said:

I think the Lervad bench has too much lost motion.   I won't want to hit anything like that on mine hard enough to knock it loose.   I would just lay it on some towels on the floor, and get a good swing with a 2 pound hammer

I typed mine while you were typing yours.   I hope you didn't damage the rods in the bench.

Nope all's good with the Lervad, I think the wooden clamp helped distribute the load.  But thanks for mentioning that and for recognizing the bench.  It was a graduation gift from my father many decades ago so I should treat it with respect. On the other hand it is a workbench. 

I probably  should not mention this, but I was originally pounding on the cast iron table of the brand new drill press--not one of my brighter moments.  

Did not know that about resonant frequency.  I was tapping all over, but I should have played some Christmas carols or a drum solo.

And oven or not, I think I still qualify for a beer.

 

So here's this remaining question, if I want to get my own replacement chuck and arbor (and I never want to go through this again) should I pony up for the McMaster-Carr chuck or just buy something like Grizzly?

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The chuck body wobles visibly when spinning. Although run out at the bit is only 3 thousandths I'm not keeping it. 

The company did send out a replacement chuck but no arbor.  The replacement is a different model, and while the original had an open bottom that allowed me to use a steel pin to knock it out (when enough wham was applied) the new chuck only has a 1/8 hole in it's bottom and no pin that diameter is ever going to knock out a stuck arbor. 

I know the drill spindle is good--no measurable run out.  So at this point I just want to get a good arbor and chuck, maybe keyless.

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The only replacement chucks I've ever used for anything are Jacobs.   I haven't kept up with that company, but if they are still made as good as they used to be, there is no need for anything "better".

I was just looking on Zoro for something else, and also checked on their chuck selection.  It looks pretty complete, and there are other choices that might even be better than Jacobs, now made in Taiwan.   If you sign up for Zoro emails, you get at least a 15% discount, and free shipping above minimum order anyway.

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