Chestnut

Christmas Dining Table

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3 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Oh man. I did a lot of growing up in the Ozarks. I've got much love for bug spray. And hatred for mosquitos!

What part of the Ozarks? I lived in Eureka Springs for about 10 years. Mosquito's weren't so bad, it was the damn ticks. Especially the seed ticks...

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9 hours ago, curlyoak said:

What part of the Ozarks? I lived in Eureka Springs for about 10 years. Mosquito's weren't so bad, it was the damn ticks. Especially the seed ticks...

Family farm in Purdy. It's a turn out of Monett. Ticks like you wouldn't imagine.

We also had a place on the Lake and that's where the big Mosquitos were. Bass would jump out the damn water for them.

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I have a question for those that are willing. I'm starting milling for the top tonight but that has me thinking about what to do for an edge profile on the table.

My first though is to do an under bevel like the coffee table i just made that is in the same room. This doesn't exactly resonate with me beings that the table is mostly curves.

My next thought then was to do an asymmetrical round over like from this rockler router bit I wouldn't cut deep enough to get the bead it'd just be a smooth round over on the underside of the table. This whiteside bit seems like the profile is quite large enough. I'll be doing this free hand so something that isn't too large would be nice.

Final option is just a larger symmetrical under round over. I'll do a 1/16" radius on top and probably a 1/2" on the bottom possibly 3/4"

For reference the top is goign to be around 1" thick or as thick as i can get out of 5/4 lumber that is starting out a 1.25" rough. It will also be floating about 1" above the tops of the trestle legs. Not shure how this part is going to look but i'm excited for it.

I welcome all in put on the above options or any others you may think of.

 

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I guess it depends on how much you want to keep the appearance of your 1 inch thick top.  You have nice lines on your base but I don't think its totally necessary to follow that.  I think i would do just enough to easy the edge on the top probably around an 1/8 quarter round.  On the bottom maybe 1/4 quarter round or even a 1/4 Chamfer.   When you do this clamp it all together including the leafs so you get nice consistent edges.  When I did mine I did the ends top and bottom then clamped it all together and did the sides, top and bottom.

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Beat me to it. I agree to your third option but like Chet and Ross say, chamfer the bottom edge. 

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K chamfer it is. That's the easiest as well i usually just set up the track saw.

This will also help tie the table to the other furniture in the room that will have the same under chamfer on the tops.

I got the lumber broken down last night. I some how sized the top so that i am perfectly using all but 1" of the 98" 5/4 Cherry boards i bought. I had a few defects that i needed to epoxy fill because of that i didn't get the material milled and squared up. Tonight i should be able to get all the top material milled and possibly get it glued up. I also have been applying finish to the legs and stretcher they should be good to go tonight.

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That Whiteside thumbnail bit is interesting, never seen a small thumbnail but before. I've used the tiny radius on top over the thumbnail bit on the bottom for many years and it is a good look. But the bevel to match other pieces in the room is how I would goin your situation.

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2 hours ago, Chestnut said:

possibly get it glued up

give some thought to gluing the top in two sub assemblies.  I did this using the smallest dominos for some alignment help.  Let it dry then glue the two halves with small dominos the next day.  That way you're only wrestling the full size of the top over a one joint glue up.

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So I've done and written about everything I've done or I've copied someone else up to this point. I figured I'd give a more in depth description of the next step, attaching the top.

As i have been building I've been aware that i need to attach the top to the base some how and because this is a bit different table than I've seen before i figured the attachment method needs to be unique. The beautiful part about the table is the base is light both in appearance and in weight. So the attachment of the top doens't need to be as critically strong to be able to lift and move the base around. Though the horizontal forces and the forces from someone sitting on an edge is important.

Step 1 is to lay out a bolt location through the leg to attach the, well the part that runs along the table. I guess it's an apron of sorts but not really.... I marked the location and glued 2 pieces of wood to make a 90 degree corner that is square to the bottom to use as a drill guide. These parts are too big to make it to the drill press and are no longer square anyway.

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I used the guide to get started and then finished the hole all the way through from the top. Next i dropped the, well lets just call it an apron, in place and  used the hole through the leg to make sure that the corresponding hole was perfectly strait. Never mind the drill angle this was posed.

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So now i have a hole through the leg and into the apron a good ways. I can use this hole to then tap threads using these funky whisperer thread taps © or is it ™? Using them is as simple as drilling a hole. Just make sure that you don't bottom the tap out and snap it.

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After i tap the threads i usually run a bolt in and out a few times to heat the threads up then i put some paste wax on the bolt and run it in and out a few more times to wax the threads. Then all that is left is to enlarge the hole in the leg to allow the bolt to go through.

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Now that we have a through hole and tapped threads I take a Forester bit and make a small recess for the head of the bolt to fit into. Then it's as simple and screwing the parts together.

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I'm still working on the fine details on how to secure the top to the leg. I don't want to secure the top to the apron because even with figure 8 fasteners i don't have a good way to manage the amount of wood movement i could be seeing with a 37" wide top. I could do a z clip but I'd have to do it on the outside beings that the inside is the part that moves.... so when i figure that out I'll provide some more detail

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How about some kind of a small corbel design, either to use on the outside of your slide assembly or on the inside of your leg assemble where they would not show as much.

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So apparently my track saw doesn't cut perfectly strait. It's got maybe a 1/32nd of bow in it over 40". It is entirely possible this is user error as well. How would i approach jointing end grain on a piece that is 59" long and 40" wide?

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Besides my #7 and a ladder?

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Strait edge and a long pattern bit in your router or some thin stock ripped and planned as a template with your router.

 

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7 minutes ago, ..Kev said:

Put the 2 pieces together, use the track saw again on the seam.  You'd loose a smidge of overall length but, the joint would be good.

+1

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7 minutes ago, Chet said:

Strait edge and a long pattern bit in your router or some thin stock ripped and planned as a template with your router.

 

This is a solid idea as well!  Either way, you'd loose a smidge of length.

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9 hours ago, ..Kev said:

Put the 2 pieces together, use the track saw again on the seam.  You'd loose a smidge of overall length but, the joint would be good.

Used this trick before and it is super easy and works great.

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19 minutes ago, drzaius said:

I like using a straight edge & pattern bit with very light passes to perfect an edge like that

I do the same...

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