NSBrad

Subwoofer Tabletop

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I need some advice on attaching a table top to a subwoofer.  I'm building a sealed sub cabinet and decided to make a table top for it due to its size to make it a little bit more like an end table.  So I built the box and the table top and now I'm wondering about the best way to attache it.

My initial thought was to screw in on from inside the box using a slightly oversized hole.  Then use a silicon calk when I screw it in. 

The other idea was figure 8s if I could find them in the correct size since I have about a 1.5" overhang on the front and two sides.  The downside here is that since it's on the outside that the hardware would be visible.  

Any thoughts or suggestions?  BTW, I am in Phoenix so I'm at least lucky for humidity swings.  

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One thing you have to consider is that the thing is gonna get lifted by that table top, and a sub is not a light thing. That rules out figure 8s. I think securing it from the inside with screws & oversized holes is the way to go here.

But I wouldn't count on the silicone maintaining a seal if there's lots of wood movement. It doesn't take much of a leak to be audible. If you fully countersink the screw heads, & then screw a piece of MDF with weather stripping over top of each hole, that should seal it good & proper.

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33 minutes ago, drzaius said:

One thing you have to consider is that the thing is gonna get lifted by that table top, and a sub is not a light thing. That rules out figure 8s. I think securing it from the inside with screws & oversized holes is the way to go here.

But I wouldn't count on the silicone maintaining a seal if there's lots of wood movement. It doesn't take much of a leak to be audible. If you fully countersink the screw heads, & then screw a piece of MDF with weather stripping over top of each hole, that should seal it good & proper.

Thanks, it sounds screws are the way to go.  I don't plan to try to lift it by the table top but even without that concern I wasn't real crazy over using figures 8s.  It's most likely only going to be moved by a hand truck.  I'm having enough trouble pickup it up to move around due to the bulk now without the sub in it.  It's for a 24" driver. So once it's in place the total weight is going to be a bit north of 200 pounds.  It's a big boy.  :) 

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2 hours ago, NSBrad said:

Thanks, it sounds screws are the way to go.  I don't plan to try to lift it by the table top but 

Family? Friends? No telling where I will be when my wife tries a new arrangement of furniture. 

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11 hours ago, Tpt life said:

Family? Friends? No telling where I will be when my wife tries a new arrangement of furniture. 

Exactly.

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13 hours ago, NSBrad said:

Thanks, it sounds screws are the way to go.  I don't plan to try to lift it by the table top but even without that concern I wasn't real crazy over using figures 8s.  It's most likely only going to be moved by a hand truck.  I'm having enough trouble pickup it up to move around due to the bulk now without the sub in it.  It's for a 24" driver. So once it's in place the total weight is going to be a bit north of 200 pounds.  It's a big boy.  :) 

I just built a vented 18" sub & it weighs in at something around 350 lbs & is 7' tall. At least I don't have to worry about attaching a table top.

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4 hours ago, drzaius said:

I just built a vented 18" sub & it weighs in at something around 350 lbs & is 7' tall. At least I don't have to worry about attaching a table top.

:o Whoa...Nice!! Here I thought the dual 15" HSU's I bought were going to be a big deal LOL

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The nice thing about these monster subs is that at the low frequency & infrasonic range they operate at doesn't cause ear damage unless you get super stupid with them. My new sub runs from 10Hz - 60Hz & you can run it at 1000W RMS for hours & do no damage. Getting an upset stomach is a possibility with the right material though.

Sorry for the hyjack @NSBrad

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

I'm going deaf just reading the posts about those monsters. I got enough tinnitus as it is. :P

What? I can’t hear you over the ringing in my ears:blink:

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1 hour ago, wdwerker said:

Double face foam tape. Reduce the transferred vibrations and just pull the top off to move & reinstall.

Now that's thinking "outside the box". Great idea. Be a lot easier to load it onto a furniture dolly.

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I was thinking you could cut keyhole slots into the back of the top and then secure it with screws driven into the top of the cabinet.  As long as they don't go all the way through the sub walls then you don't need to seal them.  It would be removable as well.

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3 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Double face foam tape. Reduce the transferred vibrations and just pull the top off to move & reinstall.

I was thinking silicone feet and just not have it be attached but your idea is far better.

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15 hours ago, drzaius said:

I just built a vented 18" sub & it weighs in at something around 350 lbs & is 7' tall. At least I don't have to worry about attaching a table top.

 

10 hours ago, drzaius said:

The nice thing about these monster subs is that at the low frequency & infrasonic range they operate at doesn't cause ear damage unless you get super stupid with them. My new sub runs from 10Hz - 60Hz & you can run it at 1000W RMS for hours & do no damage. Getting an upset stomach is a possibility with the right material though.

Sorry for the hyjack @NSBrad

No worries about hyjacking, I like hearing about what other guys did for their subs.  I was going to make dual vented 18s originally but decided to for the single SI HS-24" instead.  It has the output of 3 of their 18s and was cheaper then buying the 2 18s.  I ended up going sealed with it over vented because it needs about a 20 cf box vented.  I don't have room for the design needed for it.  Minimizing port noise gets "fun" too with how much air it's moving.  

So I went with a sealed box that's about 2'x'3 and 27" tall.  Since it's about the size of an end table I decided to make a table top for it just for looks.  I made a nice looking curly maple top that I dyed to make the curls pop.    

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8 hours ago, wdwerker said:

Double face foam tape. Reduce the transferred vibrations and just pull the top off to move & reinstall.

Great idea!  I'm really glad I asked now since I never would have thought of it.  I'm going to give this a try first since it's easily undone with no damage if I don't like it in practice.

 I like DerekMPBS keyhole slot idea too as a fallback. I have a couple ideas in my head on how I'd implement them for it.  

Thanks guys! 

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32 minutes ago, AceHoleInOne said:

Won't that foam your beer and make it go flat? :D

 

-Ace-

Just means you'll have to drink it faster.

Actually, a well built sub box doesn't really vibrate much at all.

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6 hours ago, AceHoleInOne said:

Won't that foam your beer and make it go flat? :D

No Beer on the electronics.  They get they're own table :)

3 hours ago, drzaius said:

Hey @NSBrad, what are you driving that beast with?

I'm putting an HS-24 MKIII from Sound Integrity in it and using a Crown xls 2502 for the amp.  I can't wait.  I heard from the owner this morning that they finished my driver this morning and they were prepping to ship it.  So I should have it next week since it's going from NC to AZ.  

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That's an insanely efficient driver for one of such large size & huge xmax. Be careful or that's gonna turn your bowels to water :wacko:

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3 hours ago, drzaius said:

That's an insanely efficient driver for one of such large size & huge xmax. Be careful or that's gonna turn your bowels to water :wacko:

From the reviews and talking to people the SI drivers are supposed to be amazing.  It'll pretty much be giving me full ULF.  I'm going to ease into the setup of it to make sure I don't hurt anything.  I can't wait though.  Something like the server room scene in Pulse is going to warp space-time.  I'm actually a little worried that it might break something in the house.  At least I'm renting if this house isn't well built. ;)

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