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Art

Another Roubo...

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Are you planning on using holdfasts? If you are you might want to take the thickness down to under 4" while it's still easy. I can't remember how think mine is but it is too think to work properly. It's a PITA to have to widen out the bottom of the hole to get the holdfast to work properly. If you aren't sure consider it. If you aren't planing on using a traditional holdfast ignore this.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/251/title/Some Tips on Using Our Gramercy Holdfasts

Link to holdfasts at the top that are inexpensive and awesome.

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19 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Are you planning on using holdfasts? If you are you might want to take the thickness down to under 4" while it's still easy. I can't remember how think mine is but it is too think to work properly. It's a PITA to have to widen out the bottom of the hole to get the holdfast to work properly. If you aren't sure consider it. If you aren't planing on using a traditional holdfast ignore this.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/251/title/Some Tips on Using Our Gramercy Holdfasts

Link to holdfasts at the top that are inexpensive and awesome.

Yeah, I thought about that as I was posting.  I think I will take them down a bit.

 

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I want to say shannon rodgers posted about it as well and 4" is that point where it starts to get iffy. My bench is almost 4.5" and i back bored 3/4" and the worked great but i don' t think i needed to go that far.

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I look forward to following along! I don't use my hold fasts a ton but when I do they work fine my bench after final flattening is a bout 3 7/8" thick

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I think Gramercy are some of the nicest holdfasts out there.  I had some leather pockets made for the ends of my holdfasts, that way you don't have to use a scrap piece to keep from marring your work piece. 

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The Gramercy hold fasts are great. I just used hide glue to stick on some leather to the pad, and haven't had any issues with it falling off.

I wouldn't go thinning down your slabs, though. Mine is 4" and I don't have any issues with the hold fasts (hard maple). It's also possible that at a later step you might want to plane it down again, or that you'll lose some thickness in the final bench flattening. It's kind of hard to add it back on.

Even if you need to lose some thickness for the hold fasts, if it's only a little that should be pretty easy to make them work. You could just put a really heavy chamfer on the holes from the underside, and that would do what was required. Like I said though, I doubt you'll have an issue.

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2 hours ago, SawDustB said:

The Gramercy hold fasts are great. I just used hide glue to stick on some leather to the pad, and haven't had any issues with it falling off.

I wouldn't go thinning down your slabs, though. Mine is 4" and I don't have any issues with the hold fasts (hard maple). It's also possible that at a later step you might want to plane it down again, or that you'll lose some thickness in the final bench flattening. It's kind of hard to add it back on.

Even if you need to lose some thickness for the hold fasts, if it's only a little that should be pretty easy to make them work. You could just put a really heavy chamfer on the holes from the underside, and that would do what was required. Like I said though, I doubt you'll have an issue.

That's good to hear.  I do think, however, that I'll take them down to an even 4", just because I like round numbers.  That extra 1/16 was bugging me...

And for the record, the plan is to use the Gramercy holdfasts, mainly because they're easy for me to get at Lee Valley, and the fact I've heard nothing but good things about them.

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4 hours ago, Art said:

That's good to hear.  I do think, however, that I'll take them down to an even 4", just because I like round numbers.  That extra 1/16 was bugging me...

And for the record, the plan is to use the Gramercy holdfasts, mainly because they're easy for me to get at Lee Valley, and the fact I've heard nothing but good things about them.

Knowing that you are planning to final flatten it, are you going hand tools or router? 

If router, I would plan to take the final thickness then. Never know what happens between now and then.  Would suck to get bad tear out or deep snipe at 4"

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3 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

Knowing that you are planning to final flatten it, are you going hand tools or router? 

If router, I would plan to take the final thickness then. Never know what happens between now and then.  Would suck to get bad tear out or deep snipe at 4"

Any final flattening will be done with hand tools.  I'm hoping that there isn't to much to do.  Once the laminations are done and perfectly flat, how much should I expect it to move?

My planer (Hammer A3-31) has a spiral cutterhead so there hasn't been any tear out, and as far as I can tell, there is no snipe.  Having said that, I still haven't taken them to final length, so any snipe will get chopped off anyway.

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1 hour ago, Art said:

Any final flattening will be done with hand tools.  I'm hoping that there isn't to much to do.  Once the laminations are done and perfectly flat, how much should I expect it to move

Being hand flattening, disregard all else. 

 

How much you should expect it to move? 

Even if everything is dead balls on, I have seen quite a few people find some warpage after securing the slabs to the base. 

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I saw a good 1/4" of movement on my rear slab. The front slab was a bit over 1/8". I also flattened by hand, since I was scared of taking a chunk out with the router. 

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