Diy picture frame backside


treesner

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I’ve had the Fletcher framemaster for about 20 years and really like it, I have used nails that I squeeze in with a channel lock pliers using a scrap to protect the outside of the frame. the glazers points used to hold in glass also work if the fit of the backer board is close, just push them in with a putty knife  

 

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10 hours ago, Tpt life said:

I don’t like points for frames that get reloaded annually. I prefer the swivel tabs shown above. These often require some paper shimming to get proper tension to hold the swivel. 

This is a good point (pardon the pun). When reloading photos, I often just pull the points out and then reshoot new ones. To be honest, though, I don't see this happening too often for the average person. When its custom art work, i have never removed/replaced the originally framed art. Some custom framers go one step farther and use gum backed paper to keep out dust and insects.

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On 12/21/2018 at 4:21 PM, wtnhighlander said:

For slightly larger frames, I use 4 fender washers, recessed into forstner holes that overhang the rabbet in the frame. Grind a flat on one side of the washer, so when turned correctly, the flat is flush with the rabbet and the artwork drops in. Turn the washer to lock it.

Oh that’s a great diy idea. I think I would just drill down a couple spots with a forstner bit then use a double washer so it pivoted out over the photo area 

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On 12/21/2018 at 12:15 PM, Chestnut said:

I have used these quite often.

51HI8fw+wxL._AC_US218_.jpg

but i generally try and make the frame so the materials and backing are almost flush with the back of the frame so it will hold them. Otherwise you could use nails or a picture frame point driver.

I’ll have to add those to my hanging hardware tackle box. Do you like that style better than the fully flat ones that are more traditionally seen in frames?

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