Ronnie Broussard

Delta Cabinet Saw Dust Collection

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I’m confused what you are asking for. Are you saying you don’t have a dust port on the saw and your only opening is 3.5” by 13.75”? On my old unisaw I had enough room for a 6” port there. I ended up fabing a port with a hose coupler and plywood. I need a photo of your saw, but some models of the unisaw had a custom dust port to fit that opening. I briefly owned a few unisaws with that very adapter I’m talking about. Does your saw have a biesemeyer fence or unifence? My recommendation would be to go look for hvac registers. You should be able to get something close to the size of your opening. Combine that with plywood, sheet metal screws, and some hvac tape and you will be there. Unfortunately, most dust collection mods to vintage tools are rarely beautiful. 

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7 hours ago, Pwk5017 said:

...Unfortunately, most dust collection mods to vintage tools are rarely beautiful. 

Flat black rattle can spray paint covers a world of ugly fabs in the theater business. No one needs to know it’s taped up. 

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Every opening needs to be closed up, except for one way to let in a lot of air.  I have old socks crammed into all the openings between the top, and the cabinet.  Air intake is a wooden box over the motor, with a slide in 12x12 furnace filter to keep sawdust from getting thrown out.  A 3hp DC gets all the fine stuff, and almost all of the larger sawdust.  A little bit of the heavier pieces gets thrown out  on  the table at the finish of a cut.   We can cut MDF inside a finished house with this setup, and no dust gets on anything.  

There is a sheet of thin plywood in the bottom of the cabinet.  Sawdust does pile up inside the bottom of the cabinet, and slopes down to the outlet.  It doesn't pile up high enough to get to the motor.  Blue tape has to be changed on the tilt slot after tilting the saw.

You have to move a lot of air.  Anything less than 3hp is wishful thinking, but not just for these old saws.  If you aren't going to get all of it, why bother?

On this model, the door behind that adapter on the front was completely removed.

post-14184-0-89380200-1387045541_thumb.jpg

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Here was my down and dirty solution. Taped all openings, zci,  and made a ply adapter to cover the chute with a hose Port adapter.  I also glued some lexan I had laying around into a better funnel inside. 

This works well enough. I'm not running a monster DC. 1.75hp. I disagree with Tom on the"if you're not going to get it all, why bother". If I can get 50%, that's half going into my lungs and around the shop. May not be good enough for some, but good enough for me.

IMG_20190113_074115.jpg

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I have dust collection on my cabinet saw but nothing near the saw blade.   Thinking about doing what Tom did.  With out it you sure get allot of dust in your face and on the floor.

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For the tilt slot, rather than using blue tape I've got a sheet magnet over it. They sell cheap ones at the hardware store that are meant to cover unused heat registers. They're the perfect size to cover the front slot, and it's a lot less work to remove it and put it back. I stuffed foam backer rod in between the top and the sides, which helped a lot with the leaks.

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The sheet magnet is a good idea!   I'll look for those the next time I'm in Ace Hardware.  I'll get two for partial tilts.   I initially did that to this saw just to see if it was possible to have good DC with it, and never changed anything.  I keep stretched out socks for rags, and always have some.  

In that picture, the saw had been set up in that old house for a year and a half.  I don't believe any cleanup was ever needed in that room until we left.

I use a 3hp four bagger, just because it was the largest one I could find that would roll in, and out of regular doors.  It came with casters.  It's a Woodtek, that has really good bags, and much better than the Grizzly one I have.  I think it cost mid 600 range.  A lot of people think they need a cyclone, or will buy a small bagger, expecting to get a cyclone later.  I would like to have a cyclone, but for a portable unit, this one has served me well.

There is a flexible 6" line that gets switched back, and forth from the table saw, and jointer, to the miter saw, and RAS, or used separately when needed like for a planer.

I went with the eXactor overarm because it uses a 4" line, and I needed one quickly, so didn't take time to make one.  I wouldn't want to be without an overarm either.   There are plenty of plans online on making them.  This one works well, but there is nothing special about how it's made to make it worth what it costs.

edited to add:   I found some plain, thick magnetic sheets on Amazon.  Looks like more than a lifetime supply.   If anyone needs one, send me a PM, and I'll send one to you when they come.     https://www.amazon.com/Marietta-Magnetics-Plain-Magnet-Sheets/dp/B07K6W22MF/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1547418505&sr=1-3&keywords=60+mil+plain+magnetic+sheet

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I ran a 6” line to the bottom of my unisaw under the motor and it did a great job. Does your unisaw have the sloped interior cabinet? That combined with the chip deflector in front of the blade direct all the dust to the dust port. It’s not as effective as being right under the blade, but those old saws don’t have the room for a shroud. 

 

I dont know if ow if I agree with plugging up every single hole and opening. Where does your makeup air come from? If I’m sucking 1000+cfm at my port and I only have the ZCI open, how does that work? In this situation if you truly want Pentz level collection you need to move more air. If you are 18” from the source of the dust you need more cfm than if you are 1”. I had a 3hp cyclone that was rated around 1500-1600cfm. 6” on the bottom of the unisaw and 4” down to 2.5-3” for an over arm guard. Things stayed pretty clean on that saw. 

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If the question is directed at my saw in the picture, intake is the slide in 12x12 furnace filter in the wooden motor cover box, as I stated earlier.  Intake air gets drawn over the motor, and even running for a couple of hours at the time, the motor hardly gets warm.  Not much goes through the ZCI.  The filter keeps sawdust from getting thrown out.  Some will find a way to get out of any bare opening, even if the opening is tiny. 

 This old saw has no deflector in it anywhere, and no slope in the cabinet.   I never checked the age of it.   I bought it off CL for 400, and thought I would probably, at least, have to change the bearings.  It came out of a hobbyist garage, and had never been used much, so I haven't even had to change the bearings in it from my use.

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Nah, not specifically at your saw, just in general. I don’t think much dust is going through the cabinet bevel hole etc. 

Your saw is kinda what mine looked like only my port was on the saw. Same, I paid $150ish for my saw along with two others for the same price. 3 phase though. 

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My feet will get sawdust on them if I don't cover that tilt slot.  I use it in houses that I don't want any sawdust to get in. 

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