Milling hardwood flooring


Tim N

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I am in the early stages of processing my own white oak hardwood floors. Currently the wood is air drying, and will be for the next few months. I have about 2300 BFT of various widths and lengths and have a few questions as to what to expect during processing, and maybe some suggestions on what to avoid or how to process in an efficient manner. The boards will need jointed, planed, tongue and grooved, sanded, and probably some relief grooves on the underside. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Lots of work I know, but it will be worth the efforts!!

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How are you drying it? Do you have a moisture meter? You need to bring the MC to what the inside of the house you're installing it in, is.  When you consider your time, and the tools necessary to accomplish this, you'll find it a tad more expensive than buying  the flooring you require..  I understand wanting to be able to say "I did that" but it seems a waste to me. Few people notice a floor, it's   [Pun intended]  beneath them.

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I have it stickered out side under a covered deck, the end grains have been sealed with Anchor Seal, also I have been keeping a record of the MC about every two weeks. Once it reaches 12-15% I’ll finish it off in my basement shop. I’ve considered the time and tool costs but I figure I’m doing something I love when working with wood and hopefully producing something the wife and I enjoy. The tools are negligible as they will produce a return well out weighing their cost. Not necessarily concerned with if visitors notice it or not but I get what you are saying.

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For that much flooring, I'd consider getting a shaper, if you don't have one already.

And don't try to skip the bottom grooves. According to the National Hardwood Flooring Association, they exist, and are positioned, to provide a space for slinters to beak out into as the nails punch through. Without them, the splinters or chips form pivot points between the subfloor and hardwood, resulting in a squeaky floor.

 

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A shaper with a feeder, at least.  Edge profiles could be cut in one pass.  Or take it to a millwork shop, who would run it through a straightline rip saw, and then a molder.  It needs to be as dry as it will ever get in the house.  Flooring I've bought over the years is typically at 6%.

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11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

For that much flooring, I'd consider getting a shaper, if you don't have one already.

And don't try to skip the bottom grooves. According to the National Hardwood Flooring Association, they exist, and are positioned, to provide a space for slinters to beak out into as the nails punch through. Without them, the splinters or chips form pivot points between the subfloor and hardwood, resulting in a squeaky floor.

 

That is something I did not know, but it makes perfect sense. 

@Tim N, how many square feet do you need to end up with, & what width will the finished boards be?

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3 hours ago, drzaius said:

That is something I did not know, but it makes perfect sense. 

@Tim N, how many square feet do you need to end up with, & what width will the finished boards be?

I have about 1800 sqft of floor to lay and the boards will vary in width from about 4” to 16”

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1 hour ago, drzaius said:

What do you have for a planer &  jointer? If the average board width is 6" then that's about 3800 lineal feet to mill & machine. Might make a good argument for carbide cutter heads.

Helical head cutters on both the jointer and planer. Only a 15” planer though so I will have to rip my wider stock to fit.

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