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Idaho Andy

OSMO Oil/Wax Finish

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Andy, thanks for that, very useful. I've been using the Maloof finishes also, with nice results, and still have some left. But this product I was looking to try and your review has given me the last push to jump in. I was just doing some online research this week about the product, and was specifically looking at how to apply it on furniture. I saw Marc apply it on a table top with a spatula type applicator and I found some info on using the white abrasive pads, but very little info on wiping off excess, buffing and etc. The link you provided was perfect!

I do have a question for either you or anyone else out there. I've been using 0000 steel wool to apply the final coats of the Maloof finish, then wiping it down after applying. This technique has worked great for me. Could I use the steel wool to apply osmo?

Finally, love the Maloof pieces, would love to see more of your endeavors. 

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Gorgeous chairs! 

 That Osmo is probably fine for chairs that won't have anything but people sitting on them.   A friend of mine here makes pieces of furniture that she sells at a large art fair once a year.  She had a party at her home this Christmas, and someone left a glass sitting on a sideboard, ready to go,  after a tour of her shop.  She had to redo the whole finish on the top of that piece.  She finishes her Walnut pieces with that particular Osmo.

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Andy - I'm happy to hear that you like the Osmo PolyX as much as I do. It's hard to describe the look and feel of the finish and what it does to the figure. 

As i mentioned in the other thread you referenced, I was unhappy with the look of the ARS on my office desk - very dry in spots - and went over it with the Osmo. LOVE IT! A while back I spilled some red wine on the desktop (I choked and coughed) - splatters everywhere, BEFORE I had applied the Osmo. Very hard to remove/minimize the stains it left, and I wiped it immediately. Before I hit it with Osmo I took some gray Scotch Brite to the stains with mineral spirits. It helped.

Yesterday I noticed I had a small spill of the same red wine from the night before (after Osmo application). It wiped right off with no visible staining.

So far it's showing fewer signs of wear than the ARS did. My go-to also for anything that doesn't require a varnish.

BTW - beautiful job on the chairs!

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4 hours ago, Bmac said:

 

I do have a question for either you or anyone else out there. I've been using 0000 steel wool to apply the final coats of the Maloof finish, then wiping it down after applying. This technique has worked great for me. Could I use the steel wool to apply osmo?

Since its recommended to apply Osmo with a low abrasive pad I would think the steel wool would do just fine. Simply try it on a test piece and report back to us.

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I haven't applied Osmo, but since finding these pads, I haven't pulled out any steel wool.  They work great with Restore-A-Finish, so I think they would work fine for that.

They also come in the maroon, and gray, and are the same as the small packages you buy everywhere else.  These 3's are really fine.  These boxes have long rolls in them that are perforated for easily pulling off 6" long pads.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-7745-Scotch-Brite-Clear-Blend-Prep-Scuff-Hand-Pads-Roll-of-30-5-x-6-Pads/372087124699?epid=1722704457&hash=item56a21ef2db:g:H8kAAOSwbqpT9RnH

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2 hours ago, Bmac said:

How about the TopOil, has anyone used this? How does this differ from the PolyX? 

https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/

I use the Top Oil on my bowls quite often. It has quite a high solids content and you can see the wax buildup around the mouth of the can. Works quite well for a satiny smooth finish and will even build to the point of glossyness if you work on it. I havent tried wet sanding with it but I bet it would work pretty good for that.

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7 hours ago, Idaho Andy said:

As Gary suggested, give it a try on a test piece, but it should work fine, there's no water in OSMO.  The reason the white Scotch-Brite pads were suggested is that they do not absorb the finish like a rag would, and a 2x2 inch pad (roughly, maybe 2 11/16 x 2 5/8 :D) is a good size to work with and limits the amount of finish in the pad (still plenty).  White Scotch-Brite is also a match finer abrasive than 0000 steel wool. I believe the gray Scotch-Brite is the equivalent of 0000 the next finer being maroon and finally the white. 

BTW... one more photo... the barstools where an extended project for me, this is the first photo of the project :)

IMG_2510.thumb.JPG.210b8cf852a58ed53aede704b8f98bd7.JPG

Andy, love it. What type of maple is that? You got some nice curly stock from those logs.

Did you mill it yourself? It's always so rewarding to build with what you harvested.

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I have a summer place near Hayward, Wisconsin.  My neighbor needed to drop a few trees, all native... the red oak he repurposed into flooring and I was able to talk him out of a couple of nice lengths of red maple (Acer rubrum)...  soft maple. The area has a history of lumber jacks and timber harvest, and was actually able to have one of the older and still operating historic mills do a custom milling for me... all 8/4 live edge.  I also found a local kiln operator to dry it.  All I needed to do was schlep it back to my shop in Idaho :D and yes... I really lucked out with the figure!

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23 hours ago, Bmac said:

How about the TopOil, has anyone used this? How does this differ from the PolyX? 

https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/

Just received a reply from the OSMO rep.... Top Oil only comes in a .5 liter container, and is very close to the Polyx formulation. The main difference is that OSMO has made the investment to get a third party “food safe” certification for Top Oil.  In actual use, it’s unlikely that you would notice a difference between TopOil and Polyx.

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