Ronn W

Western handle that cuts on the pull stroke

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I like theJapanese type saw for dovetails - the fine kerf and very little tooth set but I find that my wirst gets sore (tired) too quickly).  I will assuem that it has nothing to do with my age).

I also like the western dovetail saws - mostly for the comfortable grip.  So here's the question.  Is there a saw out there with a western handle and a japanese blade?

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Maybe you could invent something?   Most japanese saws have replaceable blades... you just need to take a blade and fabricate a new handle?

I used to really hate using western saws until I got a fairly good one(Veritas) and then learned to just let the weight of the saw make the cut instead of pushing down.

I just have a cheap Shark saw.   They do sell one with a pistol grip handle, but it's not a fine blade, it's made for carpentry.

 

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I believe they exist, but I can't name a brand.

One thing to consider is that Japanese pull saws are designed for working on pieces below waist level. From that position, the grip angle is much easier on the wrist. Perhaps you can modify your working position and see how it feels? Try a step stool that puts you high enough that the work (not the bench top) is touching your thumb with your arm hanging straight down.

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On 4/26/2019 at 5:44 PM, wtnhighlander said:

One thing to consider is that Japanese pull saws are designed for working on pieces below waist level. From that position, the grip angle is much easier on the wrist. Perhaps you can modify your working position and see how it feels? Try a step stool that puts you high enough that the work (not the bench top) is touching your thumb with your arm hanging straight down.

I will give that a try.  Last year I got a moxon vise to raise the work to save my back a little and found the it was great for the western saw but really hard on my wrist and hand bad with the japanese saw.  I need to vary my working position somehow because, with the japanese saw I think that I am somehow twisting the blade because the kerf on the near side of the board is, sometimes,  not parallel to the kerf on the back side of the board - even though they are both straight lines. Some how I am cutting a curved surface.

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That’s a typical response to being to close to the work so that the hand cutting moves laterally. Try backing up a half step and don’t pull your hand back so far in relationship to your midline. 

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I think that it is more natural to push a saw with a pistol grip, and pull a saw with a straight handle. Pushing a straight handle (ala Gent Saw) is not ergonomic. Ditto pulling a pistol grip. These designs evolved for a reason.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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